Wawel

Lonely Planet review

The very symbol of the nation, the hilltop Wawel, pronounced vah -vel; is more steeped in Polish history than any other place in the country. It was the seat of the kings for over 500 years from the early days of the Polish state, and even after the centre of power moved to Warsaw in the late 16th century it retained much of its symbolic power. Today it is the silent guardian of a millennium of Polish history and the most visited site in the country.

The way to Wawel Hill begins at the southern end of ul Kanonicza, from where a lane leads uphill. Past the equestrian statue of Tadeusz Kościuszko, it turns to the left leading to a vast open central square surrounded by several buildings, of which the cathedral and the castle are the major attractions.

Plan on at least four hours up here if you want anything more than just a glance over the place and be aware of the different opening hours of all the attractions. In summer it's best to come early as there may be long queues for tickets later in the day. Alternatively, you can prebook your tickets by phoning at least one day ahead by phone or in person at the Tourist Service Office. If possible, avoid weekends, when Wawel is besieged by visitors. In the southwestern part of the complex you'll find a visitors centre as well as a gift shop, post office and café with outside terrace.