Things to do in Negros
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Victorias Milling Company
There’s historic paraphernalia on display at the huge Victorias Milling Company, in the town of Victorias, north of Silay. Victorias was the world’s biggest mill during the ’60s and ’70s and is the site of the Church of St Joseph the Worker, which features a claustrophobically dense liturgical mural by Alfonso Ossorio, a contemporary of Jackson Pollock. Jeepneys run all day to Victorias from Silay (P20, 45 minutes). No shorts, sandals or cameras are allowed at Victorias.
reviewed
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Dizon Ramos Museum
If you’re interested in getting a sense of how the upper-middle class lived in Bacolod in the 1950s, you could go to the oddball Dizon Ramos Museum. Among the artefacts deemed worthy to preserve for posterity are immense collections of naff ceramics, glassware and religious knick-knacks. The real treat is upstairs, where the dining table set for Sunday dinner, phonograph, brown fridge, waterbed and cheesy family photos appear undisturbed since Elvis left the building.
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Trattoria Uma
No doubt about it, this is the most sophisticated place to dine in Bacolod, with prices to match. The distressed country-kitchen-style tables and rustic outdoor dining allow you to enjoy top cuisine without feeling the need to dress up. In stark contrast is its sibling Cafe Uma (open 7.30am to 10.30pm) around the corner, with modern tables, a classy magazine display and the most decadent breakfast menu we’ve seen. Try the rib-eye tapa steak and eggs for a casual P800.
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Negros Museum
The lovingly curated Negros Museum houses displays that focus on the island’s rich history, from Spanish missions to cane plantations and revolution. Dominating the main exhibition hall are the sugar-hauling Iron Dinosaur steam engine and a replica of a batil (cargo boat), laden with bananas, bags of sugar and a few anachronistic items such as San Miguel beer and Tanduay rum. The museum also has a small art gallery and cafe.
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Negros Forests & Ecological Foundation
A zoo with a difference, the Negros Forests & Ecological Foundation is a ‘wildlife rescue and captive breeding centre’ that seeks to preserve endangered animals endemic to Negros. Staffed by volunteers, it houses about 15 different species, including deer, wildcats and birds of prey. Now that only 3% of the island’s original forest cover remains, this could well be one of the most precious pieces of land in the Philippines.
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Driftwood City Restaurant
Driftwood City Restaurant is affiliated with Driftwood Village Resort at Sugar Beach, and serves up tasty Italian treats by the sea. It’s particularly famous for its pizzas. From here you can also organise boat service from Poblacion to Sugar Beach (maximum 10 people), which saves you the irritation of dealing with boat transport scammers. Book ahead.
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Anthropology Museum & Centre for the Study of Philippine Living Culture
The Anthropology Museum & Centre for the Study of Philippine Living Culture has displays including artefacts from Siquijor and ancient Chinese bits and pieces dug up on various Philippine islands. It’s in the central campus area. Enter from Hibbard Ave, the extension of Perdices St, and head to the old building with the staircase at front.
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Casablanca
Run by a charismatic Austrian, Casablanca is fine dining minus the fuss. Healthy, creative dishes appear from the kitchen almost instantly, and there is a good choice of exotic beers to wash them down with. Pay attention to the specials board – whenever organic vegetables are obtainable, they end up here as something exquisite.
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Sweet Greens Restaurant
Despite the evocative name this is not a vegie bar, but it still has a reasonable array of vegetarian salads and soups. The emphasis in this peaceful homely place is on good Negrense food with a contemporary twist. Try the Masskara Medley salad, which has chicken chunks, mango, lettuce and a native vinegar dressing.
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Centrop
Centrop is a small zoo and research centre housing 16 species of indigenous mammals, reptiles and birds, including the endangered Philippine spotted deer and the Visayan warty pig. If you’re planning a hike at Twin Lakes or Mt Kanlaon, come here first to familiarise yourself with the fauna.
reviewed
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Lab-as Seafood Restaurant
In a rambling indoor-outdoor setting, Lab-as packs out on weekends and stays loud and lively until the small hours. It’s easily the top pick for dining out in Dumaguete for its excellent fresh seafood (lab-as means ‘fresh’) and local vibe.
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Cafe Antonio
Upstairs in an elegant Spanish-era building, this stylish student cafe serves small but perfectly formed portions. You can even sit yourself down to eat in a swing. The chilled-out atmosphere is preserved by a no-smoking, no-liquor policy.
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Geldasa
This motorcycle rental stall is located on the corner of Santa Rosa and Perdices Sts, near OK Pensionne House. Bikes go from as little as P300 per day, or P1400 per week. It pays to check brakes and headlights.
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Sipalay Tourist Information Centre
Boats for exploring the marine idylls of nearby Maricalum Bay and Tinagong Dagat can be hired through the Sipalay Tourist Information Centre, just back from Poblacion Beach.
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Ting Ting
This motorcycle rental stall is loctaed on the corner of Santa Rosa and Perdices Sts, near OK Pensionne House. Bikes go from as little as P300 per day, or P1400 per week. It pays to check brakes and headlights.
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Vin’s
This motorcycle rental stall is located on the corner of Santa Rosa and Perdices Sts, near OK Pensionne House.Bikes go from as little as P300 per day, or P1400 per week. It pays to check brakes and headlights.
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Boston Cafe
Contemporary Italian cuisine artfully presented on earthenware dishes in a friendly atmosphere. Gangsters and romantic couples will love the tall-backed curved chairs that guard against pesky eavesdroppers.
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Coco Amigos
Coco Amigos serves wonderfully refreshing watermelon and buko (young coconut) shakes and real coffee, but the Mexican food is disappointing. It has a good vegetarian selection.
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El Camino
A chain of hawker-style restaurants and a favourite with locals. It’s a noisy, busy, open-air barbecue-o-rama. A second branch is on the corner of Burgos and Gatuslao Sts.
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ANP Showroom
This is a one-stop shop for consumers of all things Negros, including native jewellery, Masskara masks and piaya (sugary flat cakes).
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21 Bar
The very stylish 21 Bar is a hardy perennial, although the atmosphere tends more towards that of an upmarket restaurant.
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Kaisei Japanese Restaurant
A popular, hangar-sized Japanese eatery, it has well-priced set menus and a very good à la carte menu. Its little sister is in SM City.
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National Book Store
If you’re planning to travel around Negros, you can pick up an OK island map from National Book Store.
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Adventure Dive Shop
A very popular, professional and safety-conscious operation on the main strip.
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