Things to do in Southeast Luzon
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Donsol Visitors Center
The Donsol Visitors Center, situated 1.5km north of the river bridge (by tricycle from town), is the place to go. The experience is quite regimented – it has to be, given the well-being of the animals, the number of visitors and the need to rotate boat crews fairly – and access to the whale sharks is limited to a maximum of 25 boats. During the busy Holy Week, you will be lucky to get a look in; so it is best to avoid this time if you can. This is how the process went when we visited. First, pay your registration fee (Filipino/foreigner P100/300). Second, book a boat. This costs P3500 for a maximum of seven, and includes the services of a Butanding Interaction Officer (BI…
reviewed
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Cagsawa Church
About 8km northwest of Legaspi, the remains (basically the belfry and tops of walls) of the sunken Cagsawa Church are a popular tourist attraction with a terrific view of Mt Mayon. Twelve hundred people who took refuge here during 1814’s violent eruption were buried alive, but this is no peaceful memorial. The site is bustling with ice-cream stands, souvenir stalls and restaurants, but – if you can get a moment away from the hawkers – it’s a strangely beautiful and eerie place. Next door, a couple of big clean swimming pools are refreshing before the return jeepney trip.
reviewed
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Mt Isarog National Park
From Panicuason (pan-ee-kwa-sone), a steep, half-hour walk along a rough road (passable by some vehicles if it’s very dry) leads to the entrance of Mt Isarog National Park. There is an admission fee, which – depending on who is at the gate to collect it – varies between P50 and P100. To the right, a short walk leads down some very steep stone steps to Malabsay Falls, where you can swim with a view of Mt Isarog. Long-term locals reckon this is the experience not to miss!
reviewed
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Bulusan Volcano National Park
About 16km southwest of Barcelona is Bulusan Volcano National Park. Just inside the park, Bulusan Lake is a popular picnic spot, and there’s a 1.8km walking trail around the crater lake. When the mist is lying low over the surrounding forest and the birds are singing, it’s a lovely, peaceful spot and the clear, still water makes for an inviting swim or a relaxed hour’s fishing for tilapia. There are no visitor facilities of any sort apart from the track around the lake.
reviewed
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Palogtoc Falls
A successful conquest of Mt Bulusan deserves a soak in the Palogtoc Falls. This grotto is accessible by a 500m walk from a trailhead off the main road between the park entrance and San Roque (it’s also on the Bulusan–Irosin jeepney route). It features a gorgeous cold-water pool fed by falls beside a shady river, with mercifully no visible concrete, just a few low-key bamboo and nipa huts. It’s a lovely spot, especially if you luck out and are there alone.
reviewed
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Kadlagan Outdoor Shop & Climbing Wall
For gear rental, guides and tips on hiking and climbing, Kadlagan Outdoor Shop & Climbing Wall is the place to go. Shop owner Jojo Villareal is a wealth of information, knows all the local rocks and routes (and won’t recommend those he thinks are overused) and is usually here in the evenings. He can organise guides for hikes up Mt Isarog and occasionally takes groups to the Caramoan Peninsula.
reviewed
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Barcelona Multipurpose Cooperative
The Barcelona Multipurpose Cooperative, down a side road off the main thoroughfare, sells a wide range of very reasonably priced boxes, place mats, sunhats and other products made of natural fibres. This is a cooperative of 300 weavers linked to the International Federation for Alternative Trade.
reviewed
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Mt Isarog Hot Springs
At Panicuason, Mt Isarog Hot Springs has five natural hot-to-tepid pools. These offer a good way to relax after a trek in the Mt Isarog National Park. The springs are a 1.3km walk off the main road, just before the road to the national park, and combined with Malabsay Falls make a good day trip from Naga.
reviewed
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7 Degrees Grill & Restaurant
Beside the church, stop for a cold drink or lunch at the very stylish 7 Degrees Grill & Restaurant, where several indoor-outdoor terraces offer fantastic views. From Legaspi take any Daraga-bound jeepney from the National Hwy.
reviewed
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Mayon Planetarium & Space Park
In the (the never-opened and now derelict) Mayon Skyline Hotel (810m) on the northwestern side of Mt Mayon, the Mayon Planetarium & Space Park houses an eclectic array of NASA photos and volcano information.
reviewed
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Steady Eddie
Steady Eddie is the only dive centre in town. You can call a few days ahead and try to join one of the weekend dive expeditions to sites such as Pasacao, on the Ragay Gulf, and Catanduanes. Costs run from US$80 for three dives.
reviewed
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Mateo Hot & Cold Springs Resort
Mateo Hot & Cold Springs Resort, outside Irosin at the foot of Mt Bulusan, has – as you’d expect from the name – hot and cold pools. It often gets crowded and noisy (and, on weekends, a bit grubby).
reviewed
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Lolo’s Music Bar
On the 2nd floor of Avenue Sq, Lolo’s Music Bar is a cool bar with plenty of room to breathe, and live music from 9pm. It caters to a mature crowd, but frowns on shorts and sandals.
reviewed
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Malbog Hot Springs
A couple of kilometres inland from the town are the Malbog Hot Springs, where a series of bathing pools have been constructed to tap the water; development here is ongoing.
reviewed
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Star Mark
Star Mark is a combo of coffee shop with food, bar and wi-fi; it’s a popular and relaxed meeting place. Nearby, Mud Bugs is a busy sports bar with pool tables.
reviewed
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Wharf Galley
Bills itself as a ‘rock cafe’ with live music every night, an acoustic night on Wednesday, and – unusually – mostly original music rather than covers from the performers.
reviewed
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Oyster Villa
This big, bright, spotless Chinese eatery is attached to the Regent Hotel and has a truly voluminous menu. Dishes good for two start at around P145.
reviewed
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Club M8
This disco sees dance-happy revellers carousing till the wee hours, especially on weekends. Caters to a younger crowd; dress to impress.
reviewed
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Geewan
Of the several cheap fast-food joints near Plaza Rizal, this has the best local specialities, such as Bicol exprés.
reviewed
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San Francisco Food Court
To keep it real with the local fare, head to this food court next to San Francisco Church and fill up for less than P40.
reviewed
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Beanbag Coffee
Does a great imitation of Seattle’s best, only much cheaper and with free wi-fi access.
reviewed
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WayWay Restaurant
The city abounds in fast-food eateries and carinderias, but for an authentic experience of Bicol food, head to WayWay Restaurant and its splendid buffet of spicy coconut-milk-cooked specialities. It’s 1km north of Legaspi City.
reviewed
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Small Talk Cafe
The truly fantastic Small Talk Cafe defines the notion of Bicol-fusion cooking, with dishes such as its ‘Bicol express’ pasta, pinangat-filled ravioli (around P90), great salads and pili nut desserts. There’s great decoration, too, with old local photos displayed on the walls.
reviewed
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Bicol Adventure & Tours
Bicol Adventure & Tours is a professional operation that can tailor a range of tours, and has been leading hikers up Mt Mayon for several years.
reviewed
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Bar 101
Bar 101, above the Bichara Silverscreens cinema, was the place to hang out and listen to music when we passed through.
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