Things to do in Palawan
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Jambalaya
Wherever this cross between private living room and restaurant ends up – the Irish-Filipina owners are looking for a new location – internet will be available. Jambalaya (Cajun version of paella) is the speciality; gumbo, another New Orleans dish, fresh home-baked bread, cornflakes with fruit, milkshakes and imported coffee are also on the evolving menu. In addition there’s a book exchange and board games – hanging out is encouraged.
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Badjao Seafront Restaurant
A long lunch – mosquitoes and other flying critters can be a bit of a bother at night – at Badjao, gnawing on whole grilled fish and other seafood, is a nice way to spend an afternoon. The restaurant, perched over the water at the end of a raised boardwalk over mangroves, is fairly high class in terms of service and table settings, but it’s the sea and mountain views that raise it above the ordinary.
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Lake Barracuda
This island, only a 20-minute bangka ride from Coron town, has an imposing, mysterious skyline that wouldn’t be out of place in a King Kong film. Flying over Coron, you see that what lies inland, on the other side of the fortresslike jungle-clad rocky escarpments, is only more inaccessible terrain pockmarked with lakes. Lake Barracuda is one of them and is one of Coron’s primary attractions. Lake Barracuda is of more interest to divers for its unique layers of fresh, salt and brackish water and dramatic temperature shifts, which can reach as high as 38°C. It’s accessible by a short but tricky 25m climb over a jagged rocky wall (good sandals are recommended) that ends di…
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Lake Kayangan
This island, only a 20-minute bangka ride from Coron town, has an imposing, mysterious skyline that wouldn’t be out of place in a King Kong film. Flying over Coron, you see that what lies inland, on the other side of the fortresslike jungle-clad rocky escarpments, is only more inaccessible terrain pockmarked with lakes, one of which is Lake Kayangan, one of Coron’s primary attractions. Accessible by a steep 10-minute climb, the crystal-clear waters of Lake Kayangan are nestled into the mountain walls; underwater is like a moonscape. There’s a little wooden walkway and platform to stash your things if you go for a swim.
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Palawan Museum
The Palawan Museum is worth checking out if you’re interested in the ethnological and archaeological history of the island province. Housed in the old City Hall building adjacent to Mendoza Park, it has two floors of exhibits, most with accompanying explanations in English. Items include Chinese- and Spanish-era pottery and relics, as well as prehistoric artefacts from Tabon Caves. Another exhibit upstairs identifies the various peoples who call Palawan home.
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Kailui
Close your eyes and you might think you were in a lovely Balinese restaurant – waiters in red sarongs glide barefoot across wooden floors, colourful paintings, sculptures and masks adorn the walls and there’s a general air of sophistication. The menu is small and simple. Choose from a few varieties of seafood, all served with vegies. There’s a delightful fruit mix dessert, served in a hollowed-out coconut. Reservations are recommended, especially for groups of four or more.
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Balay Tubay
The Filipino equivalent of the small downtown NYC club, the kind for singer-songwriters, albeit with driftwood and bamboo instead of brass and mirrors. There’s live music every night from 8pm to midnight; the owner plays bongo drums and sings back-up harmony. Whatever time of day, there’s an extensive menu of grilled and sizzling seafood along with burgers, pizza and pasta. A smaller branch, Tubay Dos (corner Del Pilar and Real Sts) does good chaolong.
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Ima’s Vegetarian
The husband and wife (Ima) team are a warm, soft-spoken couple dedicated to healthy living through better eating. Laminated articles and magazines focused on nutrition and natural diets are available for your perusal while waiting for delicious dishes sans additives, preservatives or any other chemicals. The bok choy, ginger and mushroom rice, bean burrito or tofu burger (60) are recommended. Wash it all down with a juice or shake – no sodas.
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Squido’s Restaurant
Reminiscent of many traveller spots in southern Thailand, the widescreen TV at this popular restaurant is never turned off – it’s a perpetual screening of Hollywood action movies and music videos. That said, Squido’s serves some of the best food in El Nido – at the very least, the largest variety including specialities like chicken goulash, stuffed squid, baked mussels and t-bone steak.
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Fresh Café
A pair of recently self-exiled Arizonans have opened up this restaurant, a welcome breath of fresh air for those weary of fish and Filipino cuisine. An informal survey declared Fresh’s the ‘best burger in Palawan’ but there’s other good comfort food like chilli, country fried chicken and mashed potatoes, lasagne and burritos. Imported beers and brewed coffee round out the highlights.
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Bamboo House Restaurant
The closest thing Port Barton has to a full-fledged restaurant, Bamboo House is near the Caltex station and Elsa’s Beach Cottages. It’s a friendly family-run place with several tablecloth-clad picnic tables and a few small nipa huts in the yard. Seafood dishes like the fish curry and shrimp sinigáng are especially good; another winner is chicken schnitzel with French fries.
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La Sirenetta
Easy to spot from the water, the four pillars in the shape of the eponymous sirens bring a little bit of Vegas kitsch to little Coron town. Service at this restaurant, perched over the water at the end of a long pier, can be frustratingly slow – more time to stare at the sunset. Attempts to add a little sophistication to an otherwise generic menu don’t entirely pan out.
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Judy’s
Owned by a friendly American-Filipina couple, this basic eatery has several tables set out across the street from the defunct Petron station a block south of Summer Homes Beach Resort. Choose from Filipino and international dishes on the poster board menu; the fried chicken and mashed potatoes are especially filling but vegetarians have options like tofu burgers.
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Sea Slugs
An unfortunate name, Sea Slugs. Not exactly evocative of fine cuisine, but it does get the speed of service about right. There are reasons to come here: the food – the standard pasta, pizza, chicken and fish – however isn’t one of them. When the sun goes down and the tiki torches are lit and the acoustic guitar begins, it’s a fine place to spend an evening.
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Bistro Coron
This small place has a few plastic tables inside and outside, and offers specials like a version of setoise (soup with shrimp, fried diced bread and fish chunks), and Hungarian, Italian and Swiss sausages. Grilled tiger prawns and lobster are also available, but you’ll need to order one day in advance. There’s a bar and pool table inside.
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Queen Anne Divers
The only way to visit Tubbataha is on one of the half dozen or so liveaboards operating from Puerto Princesa. The average cost for a week-long trip is US$1000 to US$1500. Queen Anne Divers based in Puerto Princesa has received positive feedback from travellers. The season for visiting Tubbataha runs from March through June.
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Showtime Adventures
Showtime Adventures is run by the entrepreneurial Betan Pe (just ask for him around town). Trips, including fishing, overnight kayaking and even horseback riding excursions, can be arranged. Make sure everything is agreed upon in advance, including whether Betan or another English-speaking guide will be accompanying you.
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Cruise Island Adventure Inc
The only way to visit Tubbataha is on one of the half dozen or so liveaboards operating from Puerto Princesa. The average cost for a week-long trip is US$1000 to US$1500. Cruise Island Adventure Inc based in Manila received positive feedback from travellers. The season for visiting Tubbataha runs from March through June.
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Saigon Chaolong
Some locals swear by Saigon Chaolong several kilometres past the airport which is a lingering reminder of the Vietnamese community that once called Puerto home, small and informal serving up the eponymous dish; this version at least is simply a tasty beef noodle soup with a side of French bread.
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Kamarikutan Kafe & Galeri
Tucked away in a forested area east of the airport, this cafe-cum-art gallery is a good place for a coffee and sandwich, and also the site of the Kamarikutan Festival. A few tables are set next to a small koi pond and under one large native-style pavilion; the other pavilion usually functions as the gallery.
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Tuba Tours
Rightfully so, the most popular activity in El Nido is island-hopping in the Bacuit Archipelago. Tuba Tours, basically a hole-in-the-wall operation received good reports from travellers. A lunch of freshly grilled fish, vegies and rice is usually included; snorkelling gear may cost extra.
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Tao Philippines
Tao Philippines, an upmarket operation, at least in terms of price runs island-hopping trips, some further afield, as well as camping expeditions between El Nido and Coron. It’s probably best to contact them via email since there’s often no cell signal where they’re travelling.
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Neva’s Place
Some Puerto residents say Neva’s has the best pizza in town; you can’t argue with the quality of the smoked fish variety. Other choices like chicken, pork and pasta round out the menu. There are a few tables outside in the front garden, and a large all-wood dining area on the 2nd floor.
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Palawan Butterfly Garden
Situated near Santa Monica, is the Palawan Butterfly Garden, where you will get the chance to walk around a number of different species of fluttering butterflies. Before entering, you can watch a short video that explains the life cycle of these delicate creatures.
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