Things to do in The Cordillera
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Yoghurt House
Fuel up here with mountain coffee and delicious homemade yoghurt before a long day of hiking or caving. Then return for dinner to carb-load on delicious vegetarian pasta dishes or rösti (shredded fried potatoes).
reviewed
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Masferré Inn & Restaurant
The food here is among the best in town, but what really makes this place stand out are the awesome, powerful prints of the late Sagada-born photographer Eduardo Masferré. Ask the proprietor for a tour of the Masferré Gallery, which is just outside of town. Rooms were under renovation when we visited.
reviewed
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A
Cafe by the Ruins
The interior is awash in art, foliage and sculpted wood. It specialises in Cordillera-inspired Filipino dishes. Try the eggplant omelette with carabao cottage cheese for breakfast, or the suman at tsocolate (hot chocolate and sticky-rice cake) for afternoon tea.
reviewed
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Pizza Volante
The pan pizza here is tops in town, and it’s not a bad place for a beer either, especially after everything else has closed. It also has a delivery service.
reviewed
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Bana’s Cafe
This artsy place specialises in coffee and breakfast (great omelettes). Its narrow balcony overlooks a gorge and catches the morning sun.
reviewed
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B
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C
Camp John Hay
Formerly a US military rest-and-recreation facility, 246-hectare Camp John Hay has been reinvented as a mountain resort with restaurants, hotels, shops and a fantastic golf course sprinkled amid rolling hills and stands of Benguet pines. Worth a visit is the Historical Core with the attractively landscaped Bell Amphitheatre and some walking trails. Nearby is the unique Choco-laté de Batriol restaurant. There’s a nice panorama from the Mile High viewpoint; the Butterfly Sanctuary is also worth a look. It’s free to enter Camp John Hay, although modest admission fees apply to some sights.
reviewed
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Good Shepherd Convent
A short walk from the park is the Good Shepherd Convent, where sales of the convent's famous ubi (purple yam) jam and other preserves go toward advocacy programmes for single mothers. While you're up here take in the impressive view from Mines View Park's lookout. You'll be hard pressed to spot any mines, but a few small rice terraces are visible on the steep slopes across the valley. To get here take a Plaza-Mines View jeepney from Otek St.
reviewed
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Log Cabin
One of Sagada’s many wonderful surprises is this aptly named eatery. The Western-style food is hearty and elegantly presented, and on Saturday evening there’s a buffet (prepaid reservations only) prepared by a French chef, who also bakes fresh bread for the restaurant. To top it all off there’s good wine and a fireplace. You must drop by in the morning to place your order.
reviewed
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Mines View Park
Has rows of souvenir stands where you can find jam, peanut brittle, various other edibles and knick-knacks. While you’re up here, take in the impressive view from the park’s lookout. You’ll be hard-pressed to spot any mines, but a few small rice terraces are visible on the steep slopes across the valley. To get here take a Plaza–Mines View jeepney from Otek St.
reviewed
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Easter Weaving Room
Has genuine Igorot weavings and garments. Also carries a broad selection of high-quality, locally made items. Easter Weaving Room sells everything from hand-woven bookmarks to tapis (woven wraparound skirts). It’s well organised and prices are clearly marked. In the basement factory you can watch women hard at work on their looms.
reviewed
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Museum of Cordillera Sculpture
The Museum of Cordillera Sculpture, located next to Spring Village Inn, has a fabulous collection of bulol and other Ifugao woodcarvings, including some rare originals. There are also some fascinating old books that you can read, including a 1912 National Geographic on Ifugao head-hunters.
reviewed
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Baguio Mountain Provinces Museum
The collection of Cordillera artefacts at the Baguio Mountain Provinces Museum isn’t quite as impressive, but the museum also has a compelling exhibition on the history of Baguio, with some superb old photos and placards chronicling the city’s role in WWII. There’s also one Kabayan mummy on display.
reviewed
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Julia Campbell Agroforest Memorial Park
In barangay Pula in the town of Asipulo, a 48-hectare organic coffee forest has been turned into the Julia Campbell Agroforest Memorial Park. Julia Campbell was a US Peace Corps volunteer whose murder at the hands of a local man on the main trail to Batad in April 2007 shocked the country.
reviewed
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Kusima ni Ima Restaurant
This downhome place whips up exotic Kapangpangan specialties like sweet-and-sour kalabaw, frogs stuffed with chicken and pork, frog adobo (frogs marinated with vinegar and garlic, and stewed until tender) and camaru (crickets adobo deep-fried with garlic).
reviewed
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E
St Louis University Museum
The excellent St Louis University Museum, in the basement of the campus library, is run by Ike Picpican, one of the country’s foremost authorities on the history and culture of the Cordillera people. Free tours end with participatory native-instrument jam sessions.
reviewed
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Tam-Awan Village
Eight traditional Ifugao homes and two rare octagonal Kalinga huts were taken apart and reassembled at this artists’ village on the northwest edge of the city. On a clear day you can see the South China Sea, hence the name Tam-awan, which means ‘vantage point’.
reviewed
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Oh My Gulay
Baguio’s most creative interior is five storeys up under a vast atrium. It’s like a giant tree fort, with bridges, ladders and little nooks to hide in. The mercifully compact all-vegetarian menu is equally creative – try the tofu lumpia (small spring rolls) salad.
reviewed
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Ganduyan Museum
The Ganduyan Museum contains a wealth of sculptures, jewellery and other Kankanay artefacts. Be sure to chat to owner Christina Aben, who is a fountain of information about local culture and history. Ganduyan is the traditional Kankanay name for Sagada.
reviewed
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F
Nevada Square
This innocuous-looking collection of bars and clubs turns into one wild and crazy fraternity party on weekends, complete with shooters, bar sports and inebriated Filipina students dancing on tabletops until the wee hours. It can be pretty quiet during the week.
reviewed
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Tam-aw Handicraft
Here you'll find a small selection of backpacks, money belts and other practical items in the traditional patterns of the region at good prices.Tam-aw Handicraft is on the road to Banga-an, where the weavers are deaf and/or mute.
reviewed
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Balatoc Mines
At this abandoned mine, you can don helmet and headlamp, board an underground train and pretend you’re a miner. To get there take an Acupan–Balatoc jeepney (P28, 40 minutes) from Harrison Rd near the Burnham Hotel.
reviewed
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Bliss Cafe
There are Buddhas on the tables at this earthy lacto-vegetarian restaurant. Owner-chef Shanti home-cooks delectable vegetarian pasta and a few Indian dishes. The cafe moves regularly, so check the website for its latest location.
reviewed
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Balatoc Mine
At the abandoned Balatoc Mine, you can don helmet and headlamp, board an underground train and pretend you're a miner. To get there take an Acupan-Balatoc jeepney from Harrison Rd near the Burnham Hotel (around P18, 30 minutes).
reviewed
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City Tavern
Live music is the name of the game at this creatively designed, open-air bar, a local favourite. Try to catch regular act Petune and its unique brand of tribal-infused reggae sung in various Cordillera dialects.
reviewed
