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Getting there & away

From Manila, the quickest way to get to Sagada is to take the Cable Tours (0918 521 6790) bus from Quezon City to Bontoc (P600, 12 hours), then hop on a jeepney in Bontoc (P30, one hour, frequent until dusk). Cable Tours leaves Manila at 8pm, and begins the trip back from Bontoc at 3pm.

Getting to Banaue also involves going through Bontoc.

GL Lizardo has nine daily trips between Sagada and Baguio (P220, seven hours) along the scenic Halsema Hwy, which is 2255m at its highest point. Whizzing around hairpin turns with barely an arm's length to spare produces either amazement in the driver's skill or terrible anxiety.