Sights in Manila
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Rizal Park
Still widely known as 'Luneta' (its name until it was officially changed in the 1950s), Rizal Park is spread out over some 60 hectares of open lawns, ornamental gardens, paved walks and wooded areas, dotted with monuments to almost every Filipino hero you care to mention. It's a pretty area but also shabby in parts, dangerously so near the closed National Museum on P Burgos St.
Every day hundreds of Filipinos come here to stroll, jog, picnic, sing and play music, or just relax away from the swarming traffic. At dawn, various groups gather to practise t'ai chi or the local martial art of arnis, or arnis de mano, a pre-Hispanic style of stick-fighting. There are formalised …
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Intramuros
When Miguel Lopez de Legazpi wrested control of Manila, he chose to erect his fortress on the remnants of the Islamic settlement by the mouth of the Pasig River. Intramuros, as Legazpi's walled city came to be called, was invaded by Chinese pirates, threatened by Dutch forces, and held by the British, Americans and Japanese at various times, yet it survived until the closing days of WWII, when it was finally destroyed by US bombing during the Battle of Manila.
From its founding in 1571, Intramuros was the exclusive preserve of the Spanish ruling classes. Within its massive walls were imposing government buildings, stately homes, churches, convents, monasteries, schools, h…
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Makati
The business centre of Manila has also become its nightlife centre. The towers here house the nation's major corporations and most of the major hotels. It all came about after WWII when the Ayala family seized upon the destruction of the rest of the city as a chance to start building.
Makati, the former local airport (Ayala and Makati Aves were the runways), seems to have boundless growth ahead of it. But just when you think you're someplace like Singapore, a whiff of sewage will bring you down to earth. The excellent Filipinas Heritage Library is housed in the much-restored 1930s terminal for the former airport.
On the north side of Makati is the P Burgos St area, a once-…
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The Coconut Palace
Of all of Imelda’s wacky schemes, this one may be the wackiest. Hearing that Pope John Paul II was planning a visit to his flock in the Philippines, Imelda ordered that a grand palace be built. Huge teams of craftsmen laboured overtime to complete this edifice in time for the pontiff’s arrival. As Imelda readied herself to throw open the door to welcome the pope, she got stiffed. After sternly chastising that the US$37 million cost could have gone to better uses, such as clean water for the people, the pope went elsewhere. Today the palace is rented for wedding parties, but you needn’t get hitched to enjoy the place; tours of the palace are available. Among other de…
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Malacañang Palace
The official residence of the President of the Philippines, Malacañang Palace was originally a Spanish grandee’s summer house. Unlike some other recent presidents, Gloria Macapagal Arroyo actually lives and works in the palace. Given the propensity of the Philippine people to show up in hundreds of thousands and ask that the president leave, the executive branch prefers to keep the public a bit distant. Tours of the palace and the Museo ng Malacañang (Tel: 735 6201), which displays memorabilia related to the Philippines’ past 13 presidents, along with old photos of Manila, are possible by appointment only. You’ll need to write a letter of request to Jeremy Barnes, at …
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Chinatown
After centuries of suppression by the Spanish, Manila's Chinese population quickly rose on the economic and social ladder under more liberal administrations. Today the centre of the vibrant Chinese community is Chinatown , which straddles Santa Cruz and Binondo.
Chinatown is demarcated by Goodwill Arches. The main street is Ongpin St; walking its length - this is recommended - will take perhaps 10 minutes, but exploring the neighbourhood can take hours. As in any other Chinese enclave around the world, here you'll find dozens of goldsmiths, herbalists, teahouses and shops selling mooncakes, incense, paper money to burn for ancestors, trinkets and all kinds of curios. Ther…
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Ayala Museum
Housed in an impressive building, the Ayala Museum is an excellent museum with changing exhibits on Filipino culture, art and history. Past exhibits have included a well-curated one on the proselytising of the early Catholic Church. At the heart of the collection are dozens of dioramas tracing the nation's history. Just as stained-glass windows were a way for churches to engage and educate the masses, so too are these models.
As you browse, it quickly becomes apparent just how violent local history has been. Number 17 showing early troubles for monks rivals anything in the Pirates of the Caribbean for colourful mayhem.The guided tours are highly recommended.
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National Museum of the Filipino People
The National Museum of the Filipino People houses a vast collection, including the skullcap of the Philippines' earliest known inhabitant, Tabon Man (said by some to actually be a woman), who lived around 24,000 BC. A large section of the museum is devoted to porcelain plates, coins, jewellery etc recovered from the wreck of the San Diego, a Spanish galleon that sank off the coast of Luzon in 1600. Other treasures include a large collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts and musical instruments.
In the central hall you will find the stunning Spoliarium, painted by Filipino master Juan Luna, which provides harsh commentary on Spanish rule.
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National Museum of the Filipino People
This splendid museum houses a vast collection, including the skullcap of the Philippines’ earliest known inhabitant, Tabon Man (said by some to actually be a woman), who lived around 24,000 BC. There are extensive displays on the major Filipino indigenous groups and a vast collection of Filipino painting and sculpture. A large section of the museum is devoted to porcelain plates, coins, jewellery etc recovered from the wreck of the San Diego, a Spanish galleon that sank off the coast of Luzon in 1600. Other treasures include a large collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts and musical instruments.
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Site of Rizal’s Execution
To one side of the Rizal monument, in Rizal Park, you will find the Site of Rizal’s Execution; at the entrance is a black granite wall inscribed with Rizal’s ‘Mi Ultimo Adios’ (My Last Farewell). Eight tableaux of life-size bronze statues recreate the dramatic last moments of the hero’s life; at night these statues become part of a light-and-sound presentation entitled the Martyrdom of Dr José Rizal (admission P50; in Filipino 7pm & in English 8pm Wed-Sun).
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Quiapo Church
Quiapo Church is a 1933 replacement of an older structure destroyed by fire. One of Manila’s best-known landmarks, Quiapo is the home of the Black Nazarene, an image of Christ believed to be miraculous. The life-size statue, carved from ebony, was first brought to Quiapo in 1767. Twice a year the greatly revered image is carried on the shoulders of thousands of frenzied devotees in one of Manila’s biggest religious festivals, the Black Nazarene Procession.
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Golden Mosque
The Golden Mosque was constructed in 1976 as something of a welcoming gift for the Libyan leader Muammar al-Gaddafi, although his scheduled visit never happened. This is still the city’s largest mosque, and today it serves the growing Muslim community that has settled by the thousands in Quiapo. Visitors who explore the compound often find themselves being guided by an associate of the mosque; it’s customary to leave a small donation if you, too, are given a tour.
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Museo ng Maynila
The Museo ng Maynila is in the former Army & Navy Club, a once-posh US officers’ retreat. It reopened in 2007 after being closed for several years. The museum’s ground floor has a modest photo exhibit of Manila during the American period, but the main reason for visiting is to check out the building, a classic piece of American-era architecture. The tennis courts and swimming pool at next-door Seafood Wharf were once part of the club.
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Casa Manila
Casa Manila is a beautifully done reproduction of a Spanish colonial house that offers a window into the opulent lifestyle of the gentry in the 19th century. It was built from scratch by Imelda Marcos to showcase the architecture and interior design of the late Spanish period (the ceilings were made much higher as Imelda is a well-above-average 178cm). The house may not be authentic but the stunning antique furniture and artwork are.
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Quezon Memorial Circle
Quezon Memorial Circle is to Quezon City what Rizal Park is to Manila. Particularly on Sundays, people come here to stroll, jog, cycle, fly a kite or practise some ballroom dancing. One can spend the day contentedly reading a book, having a picnic or just relaxing amid the restful greenery. In the centre stands a towering monument honouring Manuel L Quezon, President of the Philippine Commonwealth, who died in exile in the USA during WWII.
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Fort Santiago
Guarding the vital entrance to the Pasig River, Fort Santiago was once the seat of Spanish military power. Designated a Shrine of Freedom in 1950, today it is a memorial to Dr José Rizal, who was imprisoned here in the final days before his execution in 1896 for inciting revolution against the Spanish colonials. It is also a memorial to all Filipinos who have fought or died for the cause of freedom.
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National Gallery of Art
This proud museum, which reopened in 2008 after being closed for four years of renovations, contains many of the Philippines’ signature works of art, including Juan Luna’s stunning Spoliarium, which provides harsh commentary on Spanish rule. It’s in the old Congress building designed by Daniel Burnham, across the street from its sister National Museum of the Filipino People.
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San Agustin Church
The San Agustin Church was the only building left intact after the destruction of Intramuros. Built between 1587 and 1606, it is the oldest church in the Philippines. The present structure is actually the third to stand on the site, and has weathered seven major earthquakes, as well as the Battle of Manila. It’s an active church and much in demand for weddings and other ceremonies.
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Ayala Museum
The modern and excellent Ayala Museum has ethnographic and archaeological exhibits on Filipino culture, art and history. At the heart of the collection is a brilliant exhibit consisting of 60 dioramas tracing the nation’s violent history. The museum’s rotating art exhibits tend to showcase Filipino masters like Luna and Amorsolo. Guided tours of the museum are highly recommended.
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Memorare Manila
At its height, Intramuros instilled fear in Spain’s enemies as a mighty European city, the only one of its kind in Asia. By the end of WWII, the walls here were almost all that remained of the once-proud city, and 150,000 Filipino civilians had perished in the crossfire. Check out the simple but moving open-air Memorare Manila which shows before-and-after photos of the battles.
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Cultural Center of the Philippines
The Cultural Center of the Philippines is set back from Roxas Blvd and constructed in the bombastic style favoured by dictators everywhere. The building has a grand design by noted Filipino architect Leandro Locsin. Inside is an art gallery (admission free; 8am-6pm Tue-Sun), a library (8am-5pm Tue-Fri) and a museum of musical instruments (adult/child P40/20; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun).
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Plaza Miranda
In front of the Quiapo Church lies Plaza Miranda, where the common folk came to watch beauty contests, political rallies and various events and festivities, until it was destroyed by a bloody bombing in 1971 that preceded Marcos' imposition of martial law. After many years of neglect, Plaza Miranda has been renovated into a Roman-style square with pillars, arches and decorative urns.
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Greenbelt Complex
Across Makati Ave is the Greenbelt Complex, an upscale development that encircles pretty little Greenbelt Park. Amid the commerce is the Ayala Museum and the open-air Sto Niño De Paz Chapel. This is the high end of the Ayala Center and there are scores of delightful cafés and restaurants. The development is separated into four main shopping malls: Greenbelt 1, 2, 3 and 4.
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Monument to Boy Scouts
In the heart of the commercial action in Quezon City, in a traffic circle where Timog Ave and T Morato Ave meet, the Monument to Boy Scouts will not be winning any merit badges for appearance. Many of the life-size statues of scouts could use a few square knots in order to stay in one piece. Numerous nearby sidestreets are named after scouts - a mayor years ago was a big fan.
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Rizal Shrine
The Rizal Shrine, in the building where Rizal was incarcerated, contains various displays of Rizal memorabilia, including a reliquary containing one of his vertebrae, the first draft of his novel Noli Me Tangere (Touch Me Not) and the original copy of ‘Mi Ultimo Adios’ (My Last Farewell), which was smuggled out of his cell inside an oil lamp.
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