Cultural Centre of the Philippines

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Lonely Planet review

Conceived during the era of Imelda Marcos' grand plans for Manila, the Cultural Center of the Philippines (CCP) refers to both the vast collection of white elephants on the reclaimed land in the bay and the performing arts centre of the same name. The decaying excess on display here is a fascinating and fitting lasting legacy for the Marcos era.

The cost was enormous, and was born by an economy that in the 1960s and 1970s could not properly supply the basic necessities of life to its people. There are numerous exhibition halls and other buildings scattered about the vast site. Some components, like the Westin Philippine Plaza and the Philippine International Convention Center are surviving well. Others, such as the Manila Film Center and the Coconut Palace, struggle against inglorious fates.

Most successful is the centrepiece of the development, the Cultural Center of the Philippines. It is dramatically set back from Roxas Blvd and constructed in the bombastic style favoured by dictators everywhere.

The CCP never quite lived up to its promise of being a centre of culture for the masses, but the building has a grand design by noted Filipino architect Leandro Locsin. Inside is an art gallery and a museum of musical instruments. Three theatres regularly present performances by the Philippine Philharmonic Orchestra, the nation's main classical orchestra; Ballet Philippines, the nation's premiere dance troupe; and Tanghaland Pilipino, a major theatre group that performs classic and original local work, often in the original language.

To get to the CCP from Malate or Ermita, take any Baclaran-bound jeepney on M H del Pilar St and get off at P Ocampo Sr St. You can then either walk to the CCP or take one of the jeepneys that ply a circular route around the complex.

South of the CCP and west of Baclaran is what looks like a barren wasteland. This is all landfill into the bay to allow yet more development. It looks bleak now, but there's a vast shopping mall (surprise!), condos and more on the way.