Things to do in South Coast
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Nazca Lines
Spread over 500 sq km (310 sq mi) of arid, rock-strewn plain in the Pampa Colorada (Red Plain), the Nazca Lines are one of the world's great archaeological mysteries. Comprising over 800 straight lines, 300 geometric figures (geoglyphs) and 70 animal and plant drawings (biomorphs), the lines are almost imperceptible on the ground. From above, they form a striking network of stylized figures and channels, many of which radiate from a central axis.
The figures are mostly etched out in single continuous lines, while the encompassing geoglyphs form perfect triangles, rectangles or straight lines running for several kilometers across the desert.
The lines were made by the simp…
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Zarcillo Connections
Zarcillo has daily tours to the Islas Ballestas and Reserva Nacional de Paracas with guides who speak English and some French and Italian, too. It occasionally takes groups to Tambo Colorado and will arrange customized trips to Nazca. Mountain bikes may also be rented per day.
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Mirador Observation Tower
You'll get only a sketchy idea of the lines at the Mirador Observation Tower , on the Panamericana 20km north of Nazca, which has an oblique view of three figures: the lizard, tree and hands (or frog, depending on your point of view). It's also a lesson in the damage to which the lines are vulnerable: the Panamericana runs smack through the tail of the lizard, which from nearby seems all but obliterated. Signs warning of landmines are a reminder that walking on the lines is strictly forbidden.
It irreparably damages them, and besides you can't see anything at ground level anyway. To get to the observation tower from Nazca, catch any bus or colectivo northbound along the P…
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Chauchilla Cemetery
The most popular excursion from Nazca, the Chauchilla Cemetery , 30km south of Nazca, will satisfy any urges you have to see ancient bones, skulls and mummies. Dating back to the Nazca culture around AD 1000, the mummies were, until recently, scattered haphazardly across the desert, left by ransacking tomb-robbers. Now they are seen carefully rearranged inside a dozen or so tombs, though cloth fragments and pottery and bone shards still litter the ground outside the demarcated trail.
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Don Hono
- Nazca, Peru
- Restaurants › Café
This venerable restaurant doesn’t waste effort on atmosphere, but concentrates on serving hearty fare with farm-fresh produce and mean pisco sours. It’s a few notches above other touristy eateries around the plaza.
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Restaurant Los Angeles
This meticulously run Peruvian and international eatery is known for especially delicious soups and salads, as well as tasty vegetarian options. It’s owned by a local tour guide who speaks French and English.
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El Bandido
A strange sight in Peru, this cowboy-themed bar seems to fit perfectly with Moquegua’s rough-and-tumble frontier attitude. Wood-fired pizzas are made to order, and the beer just keeps flowing.
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Reserva Nacional de Paracas
The vast Reserva Nacional de Paracas is a desert reserve that occupies most of the Península de Paracas. Tour operators offer excursions; alternatively, hire a taxi in Pisco or take a combi into the village of Paracas and then walk - make sure to allow lots of time, and bring food and plenty of water.
Near the entrance to Paracas village, past Playa El Chaco, is an obelisk commemorating the landing of the liberator General José de San Martín. The combi continues further in and, if asked, will drop you in front of Hotel Paracas. Continue on foot either along the tarmac road south of Paracas, or the beach, looking out for seashore life.
About 3km south is a park entry poi…
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Islas Ballestas
Although grandiosely nicknamed the 'poor man's Galapagos,' the Islas Ballestas make for a memorable excursion. The only way to get there is with a boat tour, offered by many travel agencies. None of the small boats have a cabin, so dress to protect against the wind, spray and sun. The sea can get rough, so sufferers of motion sickness should take medication before boarding.
Wear a hat (cheap ones are sold at the harbor), as it's not unusual to receive a direct hit of guano (droppings) from the seabirds.
On the outward boat journey, which takes about 1½ hours, you can't miss the famous three-pronged Candelabra geoglyph, a giant figure etched into the sandy hills, which is o…
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Cantallo Aqueducts
The Pardeones ruins, 2km southeast of town via Arica over the river, are not very well preserved. About 5km further are the underground Cantallo aqueducts, which are still in working order and essential in irrigating the surrounding fields. Though once possible to enter the aqueducts through the spiraling ventanas (windows), which local people use to clean the aqueducts each year, entry is now prohibited; instead, you can take note of the Nazca’s exceptional stonework from outside. It’s possible, but not necessarily safe, to walk to the aqueducts; at least, don’t carry any valuables. It’s better to catch a minibus leaving from the first block of Arica (S0.80, 20 minutes),…
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Tambo Colorado
Tambo Colorado, an early Inca lowland outpost about 45km northeast of Pisco, was named for the red paint that once completely covered its adobe walls. It's one of the best-preserved sites on the south coast and is thought to have served as an administrative base and control point for passing traffic, mostly conquered peoples. An on-site caretaker will collect the fee and can answer questions in Spanish.
From Pisco, it takes about an hour to get there by car. Hire a taxi for half a day or take a tour from Pisco (two-person minimum). A combi through the village of Humay passes Tambo Colorado 20 minutes beyond the village; it leaves from the Pisco market early in the morning…
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Mirador
You’ll get only a sketchy idea of the Lines at the mirador on Carr Panamericana Sur 20km north of Nazca, which has an oblique view of three figures: the lizard, tree and hands (or frog, depending on your point of view). It’s also a lesson in the damage to which the Lines are vulnerable: Carr Panamericana Sur runs smack through the tail of the lizard, which from nearby seems all but obliterated. Signs warning of landmines are a reminder that walking on the Lines is strictly forbidden. It irreparably damages them, and besides, you can’t see anything at ground level. To get to the observation tower from Nazca, catch any bus or colectivo northbound along Carr Panamerica…
reviewed
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Mirador
You’ll get only a sketchy idea of the Lines at the mirador on Carr Panamericana Sur 20km north of Nazca, which has an oblique view of three figures: the lizard, tree and hands (or frog, depending on your point of view). It’s also a lesson in the damage to which the Lines are vulnerable: Carr Panamericana Sur runs smack through the tail of the lizard, which from nearby seems all but obliterated. Signs warning of landmines are a reminder that walking on the Lines is strictly forbidden. It irreparably damages them, and besides, you can’t see anything at ground level. To get to the observation tower from Nazca, catch any bus or colectivo northbound along Carr Panamerica…
reviewed
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Museo Maria Reiche
When Maria Reiche, the German mathematician and long-term researcher of the Nazca Lines, died in 1998, her house, which stands another 5km north along Carr Panamericana Sur, was made into a small museum. Though disappointingly scant on information, you can see where she lived, amid the clutter of her tools and obsessive sketches, and pay your respects to her tomb. Though the sun can be punishing, it’s possible to walk here from the mirador in a sweaty hour or so, or passing colectivos can sometimes take you (S1). To return to Nazca, just ask the guard to help you flag down any southbound bus or colectivo. A visit to the museum can also be arranged as part of a tour to t…
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Museo Maria Reiche
When Maria Reiche, the German mathematician and long-term researcher of the Nazca Lines, died in 1998, her house, which stands another 5km north along the Panamericana, was made into the small Museo Maria Reiche . Though disappointingly scant on information, you can see where she lived, amid the clutter of her tools and obsessive sketches, and pay your respects to her tomb outside in the garden.
Though the sun can be punishing, it's possible to walk here from the mirador in a sweaty hour or so, or passing colectivos can sometimes take you. To return to Nazca, just ask the guard to help you flag down any southbound bus or colectivo.
reviewed
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Santuario Nacional Lagunas de Mejía
About 6km southeast of Mejía along an unbroken line of beaches is the Santuario Nacional Lagunas de Mejía, a 690-hectare sanctuary protecting coastal lagoons that are the largest permanent lakes in 1500km of desert coastline. They attract more than 200 species of coastal and migratory birds, best seen in the very early morning. The visitor center has maps of hiking trails leading through the dunes to miradors. From Mollendo, colectivos pass by the visitor center (S3, 30 minutes) frequently during the daytime. Ask the staff to help you flag down onward transportation, which peters out by the late afternoon.
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Museo Didáctico Antonini
On the east side of town, this excellent archaeological museum boasts an aqueduct running through the back garden, as well as interesting reproductions of burial tombs, a valuable collection of ceramic pan flutes and a scale model of the Lines. You can get an overview of both the Nazca culture and a glimpse of most of Nazca’s outlying sites here. Though the exhibit labels are in Spanish, the front desk lends foreign-language translation booklets for you to carry around. To get to the museum follow Bolognesi to the east out of town for 1km, or take a taxi (S2).
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Chauchilla Cemetery
The most popular excursion from Nazca, this cemetery, 30km south of Nazca, will satisfy any urges you have to see ancient bones, skulls and mummies. Dating back to the Ica-Chinca culture around AD 1000, the mummies were, until recently, scattered haphazardly across the desert, left by ransacking tomb-robbers. Now they are seen carefully rearranged inside a dozen or so tombs, though cloth fragments and pottery and bone shards still litter the ground outside the demarcated trail. Organized tours last three hours and cost US$10 to US$35 per person.
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Paracas Necropolis
Inside the Reserva Nacional de Paracas, a few hundred meters behind the park visitors complex is the 5000-year-old remains of the Paracas Necropolis, a late site of the Paracas culture, which predated the Incas by more than a thousand years. A stash of over 400 funerary bundles was found here, each wrapped in many layers of colorful, woven shrouds for which the Paracas culture is famous. There's little to see now though.
Lima's Museo de la Nación and Ica's Museo Regional de Ica exhibit some exquisite textiles and other finds from the site.
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Museo Regional de Ica
In suburban San Isidro, don’t miss this gem of a museum. It has an impressive collection of artifacts from the Paracas, Nazca and Inca cultures, including superb examples of Paracas weavings, as well as textiles made of feathers. There are beautiful Nazca ceramics, scarily well-preserved mummies of everything from children to a small macaw, trepanned skulls and shrunken trophy heads, enormous wigs and tresses of hair. Out back look for a scale model of the Nazca Lines.
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Reserva Nacional Pampas Galeras
This national reserve is a vicuña sanctuary, high in the mountains on the road to Cuzco. It's the best place in Peru to see these shy animals, though tourist services are virtually nonexistent. Every other year, in late May or early June, is the biannual chaccu, when hundreds of Andean villagers round up the vicuñas for shearing and three festive days of traditional ceremonies, with music and dancing, and of course, drinking.
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Museo Ferroviario & el Parque de la Locomotora
This museum located inside the train station – just ring the bell at the southern gates – gives the impression of stepping back in time. You can wander amid beautiful though poorly maintained 20th-century steam engines and rolling stock, plus atmospheric salons filled with historic paraphernalia, including a curious collection of international postage stamps, all to the tune of the lonely tap-tapping of the stationmaster’s ancient typewriter.
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Museo Ferroviario
The Museo Ferroviario is located inside the train station - just ring the bell at the southern gates - gives the impression of stepping back in time. You can wander amid beautiful though poorly maintained 20th-century steam engines and rolling stock, plus atmospheric salons filled with historic paraphernalia, including a curious collection of international postage stamps, all to the tune of the lonely tap-tapping of the station master's ancient typewriter.
reviewed
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Plaza de Armas
Tacna's main plaza, Plaza de Armas, which is studded with palm trees and large pergolas topped by bizarre mushroom-like bushes, is a popular meeting place and has a patriotic flag-raising ceremony every Sunday morning. The plaza, famously pictured on the front of Peru's S/100 note, features a huge arch - a monument to the heroes of the War of the Pacific. It is flanked by larger-than-life bronze statues of Admiral Grau and Colonel Bolognesi.
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Museo Cabrera Piedra
On the Plaza de Armas, the Museo Cabrera Piedra has an oddball collection of thousands of carved stones and boulders graphically depicting diverse pre-Columbian themes, from astronomy to surgical techniques and sexual practices. The eccentric collector, Dr Cabrera, claimed the stones were ancient, but they're very likely elaborate fakes. If you'd rather not pay, you can sneak a peek at some of the carvings outside the museum entrance.
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