Things to do in Northern Highlands
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Plaza de Armas
This genial plaza has a well-kept topiary garden with hedges trimmed into the shape of Andean animals. The fine central fountain dates from 1692 and commemorates the bicentenary of Columbus' landing in the Americas. Come evening, the locals congregate here to stroll and mull over the important events of the day - a popular pastime in this area of northern Peru. Two churches face the Plaza de Armas: the cathedral and the Iglesia de San Francisco.
The cathedral is a squat building - its construction began in the late 17th century and was only recently finished. Like most of Cajamarca's churches, it has no belfry. This is because the Spanish Crown levied a tax on finished ch…
reviewed
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El Complejo De Belén
This sprawling colonial complex was constructed entirely from volcanic rock between 1627 and 1774. In what used to be the women's hospital, there's now a small archaeology museum and an unimpressive art museum. Once run by nuns, 31 tiny, cell-like bedrooms line the walls of the T-shaped building.
The hospital's facade has a fascinating statue of a woman with four breasts. Carved by local artisans, it supposedly represents an affliction (supernumery nipples, that is) commonly found in one of the nearby towns.
The baroque church next door is one of Cajamarca's finest, with a prominent cupola and a well-carved pulpit. There are several interesting wood carvings, including an…
reviewed
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Takiwasi Centre
Brujos play a pivotal role in the pueblos of the jungle. A few kilometers north of Tarapoto, in a small jungle village, you'll find the Takiwasi Centre . Started in the early 1990s by French physician Jacques Mabit, this rehabilitation and detox center combines traditional Amazonian medicines and plants, as used by brujos or curanderos (healers), with a tailored combination of psychotherapy.
This treatment is not for the fainthearted: intense 'vomit therapy' and ayahuasca (hallucinogenic brew made from jungle vines), are used as part of the healing process. Rehabilitation programs run for nine months and cost around USaround S/500, though no one is turned away for lack of…
reviewed
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Iglesia de San Francisco
This church faces the Plaza de Armas. It is often imaginatively illuminated in the evenings, especially on weekends.San Francisco's belfries were finished in the 20th century – too late for the Spanish Crown to collect its tax. Inside are elaborate stone carvings and decadent altars, and at the entrance is an interesting collection of dangling silver sacred hearts. Visit the church’s small Museo de Arte Religioso (Religious Art Museum) to see 17th-century religious paintings done by indigenous artists and the creepy catacombs, where many monks lie buried. The intricately sculpted Capilla de la Dolorosa to the right of the nave is considered one of the finest chapels in th…
reviewed
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El Cuarto del Rescate
The Ransom Chamber is the only Incan building still standing in Cajamarca. Despite its name, the room shown to visitors is the spot where Atahualpa was imprisoned, not where the ransom was actually stored. It has three trapezoidal doorways and a few similarly shaped niches in the inner walls - signature Incan construction.
The entrance to the site houses a couple of modern paintings depicting Atahualpa's capture and imprisonment. Although well built, the chamber does not compare with the Incan buildings in the Cuzco area - the stone is weathered and the building has only recently been covered by a large protective dome.
reviewed
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Cerro Santa Apolonia
This garden-covered viewpoint overlooks the city from the southwest and is a prominent Cajamarca landmark. It is easily reached by climbing the stairs at the end of Calle 2 de Mayo, and walking paths spiral around the whole hilltop, making this a nice spot to take a stroll. The pre-Hispanic carved rocks at the summit are mainly from the Inca period, but some are thought to originally date back to the Chavín period. One of the rocks, which is known as the Seat of the Inca, has a shape that suggests a throne, and the Inca (king) is said to have reviewed his troops from this point.
reviewed
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Museo Arqueológico
This small, university-run museum is worth visiting; just knock on the door to enter. Its varied ceramics collection includes a few examples of pots from the Cajamarca culture and an unusual collection of ceremonial spears, also from the same period. The Cajamarca culture, which existed here before the Incas conquered the region, is little studied and relatively unknown. The Museo Arqueológico also has black-and-white photographs of historic and prehistoric sites in the Cajamarca area; its director is knowledgeable and willing to talk to visitors about the museum’s exhibits.
reviewed
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Museo Arqueológico
The small university-run Museo Arqueológico is worth visiting; just knock on the door to enter. Its varied ceramics collection includes a few examples of pots from the Cajamarca culture and an unusual collection of ceremonial spears, also from the same period. The Cajamarca culture, which existed here before the Inca empire conquered the region, is little studied and relatively unknown.
The museum also has black-and-white photographs of historic and prehistoric sites in the Cajamarca area; its director is knowledgeable, and is willing to talk about the exhibits.
reviewed
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Los Chancas Expeditions
River running on the Río Mayo, 30km from Tarapoto, and on the lower Río Huallaga is offered from June to November. The shorter trips are mainly class II and III white water, while longer trips (up to six days, from July to October only) ride out class III and class IV rapids. Rafting trips to the class III rapids of the upper Mayo, 100km from Tarapoto, are also possible. Inflatable kayaks are available for rent for a half/full day.
Check with Los Chancas Expeditions, the local river-running specialists.
reviewed
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El Batán
One of the town’s best places to eat, this is a mix of gallery-restaurant, peña (bar or club featuring live folkloric music) and cultural center, and serves varied Peruvian and international dishes with has a decent wine list. The menú (set meal) is an excellent deal. On Friday and Saturday nights, El Batán has live shows of local music, anything from folk songs to traditional Andean music to Afro-Peruvian dance rhythms. There is a full bar and an upstairs art gallery.
reviewed
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Cerro Santa Apolonia
The garden-covered hilltop of Cerro Santa Apolonia overlooks the city from the southwest and is a prominent Cajamarca landmark. It's easily reached by climbing the stairs at the end of 2 de Mayo. The pre-Hispanic carved rocks at the summit are mainly Inca, but some are thought to originally date back to the Chavín period. One of the rocks, known as the Seat of the Inca, has a shape that suggests a throne, and the inca (king) is said to have reviewed his troops from here.
reviewed
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Stonewasi Taberna
This is the place to see and be seen in Tarapoto. The whole intersection of Lamas and La Cruz transforms each evening into a cruising scene, with several good people-watching restaurants and bars. Stonewasi is the pick of the bunch and lays out streetside tables where punters and mototaxi drivers throng nightly to the sound of international rock and house music. Check out the path leading to one of the entryways – it’s made entirely of conch-shell fossils.
reviewed
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Cajamarca Cathedral
Two churches face the Plaza de Armas: the cathedral is imaginatively illuminated in the evenings, especially on weekends. The cathedral is a squat building that was begun in the late 17th century and only recently finished. Like most of Cajamarca's churches, this cathedral has no belfry. This is because the Spanish Crown levied a tax on finished churches and so the belfries were not built, leaving the church unfinished and thereby avoiding the tax.
reviewed
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Salas
This barn of a restaurant on the Plaza de Armas has been a local favorite since 1947 – and some of the diners look like they have been patronizing the joint since the very beginning. Knowledgeable elderly staff in white suits will help you navigate the extensive menu, which lists local specialties such as goat, tamales (corn dough stuffed with meat, beans or chilis) and even sesos (cow brains). More-standard plates are also available.
reviewed
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Cathedral
This church faces the Plaza de Armas. It is often imaginatively illuminated in the evenings, especially on weekends. It is a squat building that was begun in the late 17th century and only recently finished. Like most of Cajamarca’s churches, this cathedral has no belfry. This is because the Spanish Crown levied a tax on finished churches and so the belfries were not built, leaving the church unfinished and thereby avoiding the tax.
reviewed
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La Patarashca
Regional Amazon cuisine is on tap in Patarashca’s casual 2nd-floor dining room. With street views and a tropical ambience, it’s a popular weekend place to see and be seen. Don’t miss the paiche (a freshwater fish) and salad made of chonta, thin strips of a local palm plant doused in vinaigrette, or the namesake patarashcas, heaping platters of giant shrimp or fish grilled with garlic and cilantro.
reviewed
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Heladería Holanda
Don’t miss the tiny entrance on the town’s Plaza de Armas; it opens into a large, bright cafe selling what might be the best ice cream in northern Peru. The cafe has about 20 changing flavors, including Italian classics like stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips) and others made with local and seasonal fruit. Excellent espressos, cappuccinos with giant foam and homemade pies round out the menu.
reviewed
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Museo De Etnografía
This small, sparsely filled museum, just a few meters from El Complejo de Belén, has limited exhibits of local costumes and clothing, domestic and agricultural implements, musical instruments, and crafts made from wood, bone, leather and stone, as well as other examples of Cajamarca culture. Large-scale photographs and modern art interpretations illustrate traditional lives of the district's farmers.
reviewed
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La Collpa
You can practically taste the jungle air at this stilt restaurant, with a bamboo balcony over a river and a patch of rainforest. The menu offers up everything imaginable, from ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lime juice) to typical jungle food to grills to Chinese food to pastas. It’s best to come for lunch to appreciate the views, though candlelit dinners are also a treat.
reviewed
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Café d’ Mundo
A funky establishment illuminated nightly by moody candlelight, this hip restaurant and bar has outdoor seating and snug indoor lounges. Good pizzas, pastas and other tidbits adorn a small menu and a full bar will help you pass the rest of the evening away comfortably. The continually roaring mototaxis tend to detract from the mood a little, however.
reviewed
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aKaesH
Currently the most popular watering hole in town, aKaesH, roughly translated to 'here it is,' gets busy most nights with wall-to-wall gringos and well-to-do Peruvians. They have a well-stocked bar and flashy retro styling with changing nightly events, including Tuesday night movies, as well as the occasional live band. Look out for flyers around town.
reviewed
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Marlissa
Specializing in parrilladas (meats cooked on an open flame), Marlissa’s grill experts will deliver a sizzling platter of beef, chicken and sausage to your table. They also specialized in cuy (guinea pig) cooked in several ways – with maní (peanut) sauce is one local specialty – and host a disco night on the weekends.
reviewed
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La Alternativa
This ‘alternative’ hole-in-the-wall bar is more like a medieval pharmacy than a bar – shelves are stacked with dusty bottles containing uvachado and various homemade natural concoctions based on soaking roots, lianas etc in cane liquor. All the potent Amazonian tonics and brews are for the tasting – but not for the faint-hearted.
reviewed
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Carpa Bruja
Cajamarca's modern antidote to old-world colonial style, this slick, modern and bright affair serves up international dishes, gourmet sandwiches (on whole-wheat ciabatta!), lots of salads and several vegetarian choices. There's a happy hour in the evening, and for dessert you'll have to go a long way to beat their specialty cheesecake.
reviewed
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Don Paco
Tucked away near the plaza, Don Paco has a big following among both residents and expats. There’s something for everyone here, including typical breakfasts and great renditions of Peruvian favorites, as well as a whole bunch of veggie options. The lentil burgers and quinoa (an Andean grain) salad are particularly good.
reviewed
