Getting there & away
The frequently traveled route to Chiclayo (10 to 11 hours) and on to Lima (20 to 23 hours) starts along the unpaved but vista-lined route to Pedro Ruíz, and then is paved throughout. Transervis Kuélap (47 8128; Ortiz Arrieta 412) has a daily bus to Chiclayo (US$9) at 7pm. Civa (47 8048; Salamanca 956) has a daily 6pm bus to Chiclayo (US$6), and buses bound for Lima at noon on Monday, Wednesday and Friday (US$21). Transportes Zelada (37 8066; Ortiz Arrieta 310) goes to Lima (US$19.50) at 11:30am, stopping at Chiclayo (US$7.50). It also has a direct bus to Chiclayo only at 8pm. The very comfortable Movil Tours (47 8545; La Libertad 464) has an express bus to Lima (US$27, 20 hours) at 1pm, as well as a 10pm bus to Trujillo (US$15, 13 hours) via Chiclayo (US$12).
Virgen del Carmen (Salamanca 650) departs for Celendín (US$9, 12 to 14 hours) on Tuesdays and Fridays at 6am, stopping at Leimebamba (US$3, four hours).
Transportes Roller (Grau 302) has two buses to Kuélap (US$3.60, 3½ hours), via Tingo, Choctámal and María, at 4pm. These return from Kuélap at 6am and 8am.
Colectivo taxis to Kuélap (US$4.50, three hours) depart throughout the day when full from Grau. This block also has frequent minibuses (US$1.80, 1½ hours) and colectivo taxis for Tingo (US$2.40, 1½ hours); the taxis may continue on to María (US$3.60, three hours). Minibuses to Leimebamba leave at noon and 4pm (US$3, three to four hours).
To continue further into the Amazon Basin, take a colectivo taxi to the crossroads at Pedro Ruíz (US$3.60, 1½ hours) and wait for an eastbound bus. Ask around for trucks and minibuses to other destinations.
If you start early and have plenty of time on your hands, you can see some of the attractions around Chachapoyas by public minibus. For Karajía, you can take a minibus to Luya (US$2.40, 50 minutes), from where regular minibuses go to the nearby village of Cruz Pata (US$1.80, 50 minutes).
A taxi for the day to Kuélap or to sites around Chachapoyas costs US$36; for Leimebamba it’s US$45.
Although Chachapoyas has an airport, at the time of writing no carriers flew in or out of it. This may change, though probably not soon.