Things to do in Cajamarca
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El Cajamarques
For high-end Peruvian cuisine, dip into this elegant restaurant. The colonial courtyard is filled with tropical birds that will happily sing along as Peruvian and international dishes are presented on spiffy white tablecloths. Rowdy parties are held here during Carnaval.
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Museo De Etnografía
This small, sparsely filled museum, just a few meters from El Complejo de Belén, has limited exhibits of local costumes and clothing, domestic and agricultural implements, musical instruments, and crafts made from wood, bone, leather and stone, as well as other examples of Cajamarca culture. Large-scale photographs and modern art interpretations illustrate traditional lives of the district's farmers.
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Supermercado San Francisco
For self-catering.
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Colors & Creations
An artisan-owned-and-run cooperative selling excellent-quality crafts.
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Sanguchon.com
This popular hamburger and sandwich joint with an excellent bar often remains rowdy till the wee hours.
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Cascanuez Café Bar
This cafe sells snacks and meals but people flock here for the good choice of fine desserts and respectable coffee.
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El Quinde Shopping Center
El Quinde Shopping Center has the closest supermarket to town, about 2.5km north of the Plaza de Armas.
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Hogar de Cristo
Hogar de Cristo is a charity that is always looking for volunteers to help with its various programs for street children.
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Barroco Lounge
Although they also serve good sushi, the all-white, ultra-hip Barroco is all about martinis, boat-sized couches and mile-high bar stools. For all this gloss, the staff is surprisingly down to earth.
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New York Pizza
OK, it’s not real New York pizza, but then again nothing else is. They still make a great pie though, as the yummy smells wafting down the street will verify. They get double bonus points for their delivery service.
reviewed
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Querubino
Modern and stylish, warm and busy, and generally full of tourist groups, this place has a ponderous menu of Peruvian and international dishes and is renowned for its great pastas. It also has a solid wine selection.
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Mr Grill
It only takes a step into this low-key dining room to be seduced by the smell of roast chicken and choice cuts of meat. A table for five could easily get stuffed on their parrillada (selection of grilled meats) for S75.
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Usha-Usha
For something a little more intimate, this place is a graffiti-covered, hole-in-the-wall bar run by an eccentric local musician. It serves strong mixed drinks and hosts live jazz music most nights of the week. It’s definitely worth searching out.
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Nuevo Chifa Canton
A step up from the usual Chinese restaurants that abound in Peru, the menu here is filled with hundreds of options great for everyone, from vegetarians to the most daring meat eaters. The chef hails from Canton and boasts more than 15 years of cooking experience.
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Don Paco
Tucked away near the plaza, Don Paco has a big following among both residents and expats. There’s something for everyone here, including typical breakfasts and great renditions of Peruvian favorites, as well as a whole bunch of veggie options. The lentil burgers and quinoa (an Andean grain) salad are particularly good.
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Carpa Bruja
Cajamarca's modern antidote to old-world colonial style, this slick, modern and bright affair serves up international dishes, gourmet sandwiches (on whole-wheat ciabatta!), lots of salads and several vegetarian choices. There's a happy hour in the evening, and for dessert you'll have to go a long way to beat their specialty cheesecake.
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aKaesH
Currently the most popular watering hole in town, aKaesH, roughly translated to 'here it is,' gets busy most nights with wall-to-wall gringos and well-to-do Peruvians. They have a well-stocked bar and flashy retro styling with changing nightly events, including Tuesday night movies, as well as the occasional live band. Look out for flyers around town.
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Museo De Etnografía
This small, sparsely filled museum, just a few meters from El Complejo de Belén, has limited exhibits of local costumes and clothing, domestic and agricultural implements, musical instruments, and crafts made from wood, bone, leather and stone, as well as other examples of Cajamarca culture. Large-scale photographs and modern art interpretations illustrate traditional lives of the district's farmers.
reviewed
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Heladería Holanda
Don’t miss the tiny entrance on the town’s Plaza de Armas; it opens into a large, bright cafe selling what might be the best ice cream in northern Peru. The cafe has about 20 changing flavors, including Italian classics like stracciatella (vanilla with chocolate chips) and others made with local and seasonal fruit. Excellent espressos, cappuccinos with giant foam and homemade pies round out the menu.
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Cathedral
This church faces the Plaza de Armas. It is often imaginatively illuminated in the evenings, especially on weekends. It is a squat building that was begun in the late 17th century and only recently finished. Like most of Cajamarca’s churches, this cathedral has no belfry. This is because the Spanish Crown levied a tax on finished churches and so the belfries were not built, leaving the church unfinished and thereby avoiding the tax.
reviewed
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Salas
This barn of a restaurant on the Plaza de Armas has been a local favorite since 1947 – and some of the diners look like they have been patronizing the joint since the very beginning. Knowledgeable elderly staff in white suits will help you navigate the extensive menu, which lists local specialties such as goat, tamales (corn dough stuffed with meat, beans or chilis) and even sesos (cow brains). More-standard plates are also available.
reviewed
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Cajamarca Cathedral
Two churches face the Plaza de Armas: the cathedral is imaginatively illuminated in the evenings, especially on weekends. The cathedral is a squat building that was begun in the late 17th century and only recently finished. Like most of Cajamarca's churches, this cathedral has no belfry. This is because the Spanish Crown levied a tax on finished churches and so the belfries were not built, leaving the church unfinished and thereby avoiding the tax.
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Cerro Santa Apolonia
The garden-covered hilltop of Cerro Santa Apolonia overlooks the city from the southwest and is a prominent Cajamarca landmark. It's easily reached by climbing the stairs at the end of 2 de Mayo. The pre-Hispanic carved rocks at the summit are mainly Inca, but some are thought to originally date back to the Chavín period. One of the rocks, known as the Seat of the Inca, has a shape that suggests a throne, and the inca (king) is said to have reviewed his troops from here.
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El Batán
One of the town’s best places to eat, this is a mix of gallery-restaurant, peña (bar or club featuring live folkloric music) and cultural center, and serves varied Peruvian and international dishes with has a decent wine list. The menú (set meal) is an excellent deal. On Friday and Saturday nights, El Batán has live shows of local music, anything from folk songs to traditional Andean music to Afro-Peruvian dance rhythms. There is a full bar and an upstairs art gallery.
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Museo Arqueológico
The small university-run Museo Arqueológico is worth visiting; just knock on the door to enter. Its varied ceramics collection includes a few examples of pots from the Cajamarca culture and an unusual collection of ceremonial spears, also from the same period. The Cajamarca culture, which existed here before the Inca empire conquered the region, is little studied and relatively unknown.
The museum also has black-and-white photographs of historic and prehistoric sites in the Cajamarca area; its director is knowledgeable, and is willing to talk about the exhibits.
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