Plaza de Armas

Lonely Planet review

This genial plaza has a well-kept topiary garden with hedges trimmed into the shape of Andean animals. The fine central fountain dates from 1692 and commemorates the bicentenary of Columbus' landing in the Americas. Come evening, the locals congregate here to stroll and mull over the important events of the day - a popular pastime in this area of northern Peru. Two churches face the Plaza de Armas: the cathedral and the Iglesia de San Francisco.

The cathedral is a squat building - its construction began in the late 17th century and was only recently finished. Like most of Cajamarca's churches, it has no belfry. This is because the Spanish Crown levied a tax on finished churches - without its belfry, the cathedral was 'unfinished' and thus avoided the tax.

San Francisco's belfries were finished in the 20th century - too late for the Spanish Crown to collect its tax. At the entrance is an interesting collection of dangling silver sacred hearts. Inside are elaborate stone carvings and decadent altars. Visit the church's small Museo de Arte Religioso to see 17th-century paintings by indigenous artists, and creepy catacombs where many monks lie buried. The intricately sculpted Capilla de la Dolorosa (to the right of the church) is considered one of the finest chapels in the city.