Things to do in Trujillo
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Chan Chan
Built around AD 1300 and covering 28 sq km (17 sq mi), Chan Chan is the largest pre-Columbian city in the Americas, and the largest adobe city in the world. At the height of the Chimu Empire, it housed an estimated 60,000 inhabitants and contained a vast wealth of gold, silver and ceramics. The wealth remained undisturbed after the city was conquered by the Incas, but once the Spaniards hit the stage the looting began.
Within a few decades, little but gold dust remained. Although Chan Chan must have once been a dazzling sight, El Niño floods and heavy rainfall have severely eroded the mud walls. Today, the most impressive aspect of the site is its sheer size.
The Chimu c…
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Plaza de Armas
Trujillo's spacious and fetching main square hosts an impressive statue dedicated to work, the arts and liberty. The plaza is fronted by the cathedral, begun in 1647, destroyed in 1759, and rebuilt soon afterward. The cathedral has a famous basilica and a museum of religious and colonial art.
At 08:00 on Sunday there is a flag-raising ceremony on the Plaza de Armas, complete with a parade. On some Sundays there are also caballos de paso (pacing horses) and performances of the marinera (a typical coastal Peruvian dance involving much romantic waving of handkerchiefs).
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Museo Cassinelli
The Museo Cassinelli is a private archaeological collection housed in the basement of a gas station. The museum is fascinating, with hundreds of pieces that certainly don’t belong under a gritty petrol dispensary. Have a look at the bird-shaped whistling pots, which produce clear notes when air is blown into them (ask the curator to show you). Superficially the pots are very similar, but when they are blown each produces a completely different note that corresponds to the calls of the male and female birds.
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Restaurant Demarco
Although this small bistro specializes in Italian food and crispy crust pizzas – if you read Italian, so much the better for deciphering the extensive menu – they have mouth-watering chupe de camarones, a seafood stew of jumbo shrimp simmering in a buttery broth with hints of garlic, cumin and oregano. The desserts are excellent, from classic tiramisu to mile-high tres leches (a spongy cake made with evaporated milk).
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El Uruguayo
Vegetarians might want to make a wide berth around this place. Located a S3 taxi ride south of town, little El Uruguayo serves up delicious barbecued meat to a nightly crowd of salivating in-the-know patrons. A massive sizzling plate of mixed meats (Argentinean steak, chicken, chorizo, beef heart, plus a few surprises), salad and fries – enough for two to three people – will set you back S30. Dig in.
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Palacio Iturregui
The canary yellow 19th-century mansion Palacio Iturregui is unmistakable and impossible to ignore unless you’re color-blind. Built in neoclassical style, it has beautiful window gratings, slender interior columns and gold moldings on the ceilings. General Juan Manuel Iturregui lived here after he famously proclaimed independence.
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Mar Picante
This large, bamboo-lined seafood palace specializes in some of Trujillo’s best and freshest ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lime juice) and is packed daily with hundreds of savvy locals. Try the heaped ceviche mixto, which has various kinds of fish and crustaceans (S10 to S12). The restaurant is a S3 taxi ride south of town.
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Casa Ganoza Chopitea
Casa Ganoza Chopitea, also known as Casa de los Léones, is considered to be the best mansion of the colonial period in Trujillo. The tourist police are housed here. Good contemporary Peruvian art is sometimes shown here, as are some rather arcane pieces that you may never have a chance to see elsewhere. Hours vary.
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El Festival Internacional de la Primavera
Trujillo's major festival is celebrated with parades, national dancing competitions (including, of course, the marinera), caballos de paso displays, sports, international beauty contests and other cultural activities. It all happens in the last week in September, and better hotels are booked out well in advance.
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Restaurant Romano
This place has been around since 1951, so you know these guys have been doing something right. Whipping up a decent espresso, as well as breakfast, snacks and meals all day, the Romano is one of the most popular eateries in town. Expect meaty and meatless sandwiches, desserts and a mainly Peruvian menu.
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Café Bar Museo
This locals’ favorite shouldn’t be a secret. The tall, wood-paneled walls covered in artsy posters and classic marble-top bar feels like a cross between an English pub and a Left Bank cafe. A big drinks and dessert menu make this a great place to sit with friends and share something sweet.
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Museo de Arqueología
The Museo de Arqueología displays a rundown of Peruvian history from 12,000 BC to the present day. There’s also a small but interesting collection of artifacts from the Huaca de la Luna. The museum is housed in La Casa Risco, a restored 17th-century mansion.
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Oviedo
If you’re sick of the tiny plate of eggs your hotel is throwing at you in the morning, check out Oviedo’s long list of breakfasts – from a simple Continental to a hearty criollo (spicy Peruvian fare with Spanish and African influences) that comes with a steak.
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Chifa Heng Lung
Owned by a Chinese family that has been cooking Cantonese food in Trujillo for more than a decade, Heng Lung is slightly upscale, with big booths and tablecloths. The menu is a predictable list of southern Chinese dishes, but very long on options and flavors.
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El Sol Restaurante Vegetariano
Recently moved to a new location, ‘The Sun’ maintains a short but surprising list of meat-imitating dishes and always has a daily lunch menú for about S3. Plenty of nonvegetarians eat here, attesting to its hearty and delicious offerings.
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Trujillo Tours
Friendly and recommended Trujillo Tours has three- to four-hour tours to Chan Chan and Huanchaco (S20), and to Huacas del Sol y de la Luna (S20), as well as city tours (S18). Some English, French and German is spoken.
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Iglesia de la Merced
The Iglesia de la Merced , built in the 17th century, has a striking organ and cupola. Uniquely, an altar here is painted on the wall, an economical shortcut when funds ran out for a more traditional gold or carved-wood alternative.
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Restaurante Turístico Canana
Although this place is open every night and serves good Peruvian coastal food (mains S15 to S35), late Thursday to Saturday is the time to go. Local musicians and dancers perform, starting at around 11pm, and the audience joins in.
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El Mochica
Industrially hygienic and scattered with bits of art to take the edge off, this place has a variety of midpriced steaks and seafood, as well as cheaper local dishes. There’s a snug salón de té (tea room) next door.
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Museo de Zoología
Museo de Zoología, just west of the Plaza de Armas, is mainly a taxidermic collection of Peruvian animals (many so artificially stuffed they look like nightmarish caricatures of their former selves).
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Bruce Peru
The aid organization Bruce Peru helps kids that are unable to attend school. Volunteer opportunities are best arranged beforehand, though short-term, walk-in volunteers are sometimes needed.
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Asturias
Tidy and cozy, this café serves up a little bit of everything. There's a long menu of Peruvian and international plates and the smartly dressed elderly waiters will make sure you're well looked after.
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Ributo Bar
This pleasant bar on the corner of the plaza great for a quiet tipple and a chat with your friends. It attracts a younger, livelier crowd on weekends, when there is live music or hot DJs.
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Mecano Bar
This is the current top spot to see and be seen in Trujillo. Sway your hips to salsa, reggae and techno alongside a mix of well-to-do Peruvians and expats. It’s very busy on weekends.
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Tributo Bar
This pleasant bar on the corner of the plaza is great for a quiet tipple and a chat with your friends. It attracts a younger, livelier crowd on weekends, when there is live music.
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