Things to do in Huaraz & The Cordilleras
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California Café
Run by Tim, from California no less, this hip pad does breakfasts at any time, plus light lunches and salads – it’s a funky, chilled space to while away many hours. You can spend the day listening to the sublime world music collection or reading one of the hundreds of books available for exchange. Wi-fi is a godsend to laptop junkies and rich espressos and dozens of herbal teas will keep you sipping till closing time. Tim is active in the development of ecotourism in the Cordillera Huayhuash and is a goldmine of information on that area. He organizes ‘ultimate Frisbee’ games every Friday.
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Café Andino
This modern top-floor cafe has space and light in spades, comfy lounges, art, photos, books and groovy tunes – it’s the ultimate all-day hangout and meeting spot. You can get breakfast anytime (Belgian waffles – yum!) and this place is serious about its coffee, roasting its own. Ask Chris, the US owner, about information on trekking in the area and check out the message board for local info.
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Encuentro
One of three Encuentro locations around Huaraz serving breakfasts, coffees, cocktails and Peruvians dishes – the trout tiradito (Japanese-influence version of ceviche, served in thin slices and without onions) is fresh and delicious.
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El Horno
If you can cook it on a grill or in a wood oven, El Horno can make it sing. The different varieties of meat skewers and pizzas are the best picks here. The place often fills up with trekking groups, so arrive early or make a reservation.
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La Brasa Roja
This scrumptious pollería (restaurant specializing in roast chicken) is the ultimate budget refueling stop. The ‘Red-Hot Coals’ also serves up sandwiches, pastas and beef – but stick with the chicken, it’s what it does best.
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Hatun Machay
Further south, about 70km from Huaraz on the road to Lima and in the vicinity of the village of Pampas Chico, Hatun Machay is a rock-climber’s paradise. The folks at Andean Kingdom have developed dozens of climbing routes throughout this ‘rock forest’ nestled high in the Cordillera Negra. The whole complex, including the climbing routes and a large rustic refuge with kitchen facilities is at your service for beginning rock-climbing instruction, as well as hard-core ascents. If that weren’t enough, two treks around the area take you past archaeological remains of rock carvings and a view of the Pacific Ocean (on a clear day), and make for great half-day acclimatization hik…
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Mountain Bike Adventures
Mountain Bike Adventures has been in business for more than a decade and receives repeated visits by mountain-bikers for its decent selection of bikes, knowledgeable and friendly service, plus its good safety record. The owner is a lifelong resident of Huaraz who speaks English and has spent time mountain biking in the USA – he knows the region’s single-track possibilities better than anyone. The company offers bike rentals for independent types or guided tours, ranging from an easy five-hour cruise to 12-day circuits around the Cordillera Blanca. Rates start at S60 per day for equipment rentals and S90 for one-day tours.
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El Tambo Bar
If you’re hankerin’ to shake your groove-thang, this is the most popular disco in town. Fashionable with both extranjeros (foreigners) and Peruvians, the music swings from techno-cumbia to Top 20, to salsa to reggae to most things in between – all in a space of 20 minutes. Occasional live bands also play. Although there’s no cover charge, you may want to consult your accountant before buying a round of drinks: the prices are astronomical.
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Bistro de los Andes
This restaurant with a European air is owned by a multilingual Frenchman. It serves an international and Peruvian menu ranging from pancakes to pastas. Good coffees, delectable desserts, fabulous fish dishes – there’s something for everyone at any time of day. The service is excellent, a happy-hour special is always on offer and the long rows of tables along the windows look out onto the Plaza de Armas.
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Huaraz Satyricon
This place may just be the world’s most perfect little cinema. A small and intimate space that has snug couches, fresh popcorn, snacks and espresso, it shows top-quality international and repertoire flicks (all with English subtitles) on a private projection screen. Look out for flyers around town advertising the changing schedule. Note that the theater may be shut for periods during low season.
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Piscigranja de Truchas
At the trout hatchery Piscigranja de Truchas, you can see the stages of the trout-hatching process from eggs to adults. By the entrance, the Recreo de los Jardínes serves trout for lunch. It’s a half-hour walk from the center: walk east on Raimondi to Confraternidad Este, then turn left and cross the bridge over the Río Quilcay; the hatchery is just beyond.
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Los 13 Buhos
Located upstairs from Makondos, the 13 Owls is a chilled-out bar that is the most popular place in town to kick back and chat in the early evening while listening to excellent, funky sounds. Warm lighting flickers over graffiti-covered walls and climbing paraphernalia clings to the rafters, while couches help you ease into the evening’s frivolities over a cold Crystal.
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El Fogón
A bright, modern and slightly upscale twist on the traditional Peruvian grill house, this place will grill anything that moves – including the usual chicken, trout and rabbit and it does great anticuchos (shish kebabs). Everything is very tasty and the place gets packed nightly with Peruvians in on the secret. Vegetarians will go hungry though.
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Pachamama
This warm and delightful restaurant-bar features a glass roof, plant-filled interior garden, fireplace, pool table, table tennis, art on the walls and giant chessboard on the floor. It’s a hip, fun and popular locale that may have live music and dancing at weekends (not folklórico !). The menu is Peruvian and international with a Swiss twist.
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Sabor Salud Pizzería
If all Italians were vegetarian, this is where they would eat. Flavor and health are the bywords for this little place, which also serves up spinach lasagna and other pastas, soy burgers, yogurt, fruit salads, vegetable salads, omelets, garlic bread, muesli - it's almost enough to entice hardened carnivores. Almost.
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Museo Regional de Ancash
The Museo Regional de Ancash houses the largest collection of ancient stone sculptures in South America. Small but interesting, it has a few mummies, some trepanned skulls and a garden of stone monoliths from the Recuay culture (400 BC to AD 600) and the Wari culture (AD 600 to 1100).
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Siam de Los Andes
More expensive than many Huaraz restaurants, the authentic Thai fare is prepared by an infectiously cheery Thai chef and well worth the few extra soles. You’ll find everything from aromatic veggie soups to chicken satay (skewers with peanut sauce) to Pad Thai noodles with jumbo shrimp.
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Monte Rosa/Inca Pub
This warm, snug Swiss-run restaurant has an Alpine vibe; it does an international menu that includes fondue and raclette (melted cheese over potatoes or bread) as well as pizzas and Peruvian plates. If it’s full, service can be slow. The owner also sells Victorinox Swiss army knives.
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Piccolo
Very popular with gringos attracted to the outdoor pavement seating, friendly service and reasonable prices, the Piccolo is a cafe and pizzeria that moonlights as a restaurant. It has a good Italian and international menu, but make sure you see its Peruvian menu.
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X-Treme Bar
This classic watering hole hasn’t changed in years. Bizarre art, drunken graffiti, strong cocktails and good rock and blues keep things rambunctious well into the night as it fills to the brim with a steady stream of bodies.
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Jirón José Olaya
Jirón José Olaya is the only street that remained intact through Huaraz' various earthquakes. It gives a good indication of what the town once looked like; go on Sunday when a street market sells regional foods.
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Andean Garden Club
Owned by the same people as the X-treme Bar, this laid-back option has an outdoor garden setting and sells beer and snacks, plus it has a climbing wall for the perennially active. Just don’t drink and climb.
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Crêperie Patrick
This French-influenced place is recommended for crêpes, ice cream and continental dinners (trout, fondue, pasta). It has a rooftop patio that’s open in the mornings for enjoying breakfast under the sun.
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Last Minute Gift Store
High-quality, attractive T-shirts with appropriately mountainous designs are made by Andean Expressions and sold at the Last Minute Gift Store – watch out for lower-quality imitators.
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Pastelería Café Turmanyé
Serving paella, sandwiches and rich Spanish-style pastries and cakes, this little eatery also has the distinction of benefiting the local Arco Iris Foundation, which helps children and young mothers.
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