Things to do in The Sacred Valley
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Biomuseo
The whimsical Biomuseo explains (only in Spanish, alas!) world bio-diversity through the medium of the potato. Opening hours and admission prices are erratic.
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Moray
The impressively deep amphitheater-like terracing of Moray, reached via the small town of Maras, is a fascinating spectacle. Different levels of concentric terraces are carved into a huge earthen bowl, each layer of which has its own micro-climate, according to how deep into the bowl it is. For this reason, some theorize that the Incas used them as a kind of laboratory to determine the optimal conditions for growing crops of each species. There are three bowls, one of which has been planted with various crops as a kind of living museum.
Though refreshingly off the beaten path, this site is not challenging to reach. You can take any transportation bound between Urubamba an…
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Salinas
To get here, cross the Río Urubamba over the bridge in Tarabamba, about 4km down the valley from Urubamba, turn right and follow a footpath along the south bank to a small cemetery, where you turn left and climb up a valley to the salt pans of Salinas.
It’s about a 500m uphill hike. A rough dirt road that can be navigated by taxi enters Salinas from above, giving spectacular views. Tour groups visit via this route most days. A taxi from Urubamba to visit Salinas and the nearby Moray costs around S80. You can also walk or bike here from Maras.
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Huacatay
Hidden behind a grey wall down a side street, Huacatay is worth hunting down. Peruvian food with Italian overtones goes down a treat, and is served by hushed, unctuous waiters in a cozy dining-room decorated in various shades of brown. An old-fashioned dining experience with some seriously good, though extremely heavy, food – the lightest vegetarian option, for example, is stir-fried vegetables in creamy mushroom sauce, served in a phyllo-pastry basket. With creamy mashed potato. And cheese.
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Ollantaytambo Ruins
The huge, steep terraces that guard Ollantaytambo’s spectacular Inca ruins mark one of the few places where the Spanish conquistadors lost a major battle. It was to this fortress that the rebellious Manco Inca retreated after his defeat at Sacsaywamán. Then in 1536, Hernando Pizarro (Francisco Pizarro’s younger half-brother) led a force of 70 cavalry-men here, supported by large numbers of indigenous and Spanish foot soldiers, in an attempt to capture Manco Inca.
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Horno Típico de Santa Lucia
Huge clay ovens for baking empanadas and other goodies and castillos de cuyes (miniature castles inhabited by guinea pigs) are found in many nooks and crannies, particularly in Mariscál Castilla. Horno Típico de Santa Lucia unites both of these with an artesanía (crafts) shop. If, for some strange reason, you only have five minutes in Pisac, spend it here – you’ll get a pretty good feel for the place.
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Patabamba Community Tourism Association
The Patabamba community tourism association offers a fascinating participative demonstration of the weaving process, all the way from picking the plants to making dyes, to shearing sheep and setting up a loom – with explanations of the meanings of colors and patterns. Campsites and homestays are available with advance notice. To get here, you can hire a taxi from Cuzco for about S30 each way.
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La Alhambra
This novoandina buffet place 2km west of town is the place to be if you’re hungry. Set amid charming gardens where pet alpacas roam, it serves up a dazzling array of cuzqueño dishes, stylishly done. Saving room for dessert, though difficult, is worthwhile – the sauco (Andean blackberry) cheesecake deserves your stomach space.
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Perol Chico
Perol Chico, run by Dutch-Peruvian Eduard van Brunschot Vega, has an excellent ranch outside Urubamba with Peruvian paso horses. Eduard organizes horseback-riding tours that last up to two weeks; a one-day trip to Moray and Salinas costs roughly US$150. Advance bookings are required.
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Pisac Ruins
This hilltop Inca citadel lies high above the village Pisac on a triangular plateau with a plunging gorge on either side. Though it’s a truly awesome site, you’ll see relatively few tourists here, except mid-morning on Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday, when it becomes flooded with tour groups.
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Hearts Café
Hearts Café dishes out delicious, healthy and hearty food and fabulous coffee. The cafe, which endearingly advertises ‘mostly whole foods,’ was set up to raise money for the Living Heart Association, an NGO founded by English nutritionist Sonia Newhouse, which is doing amazing things in the Sacred Valley.
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Seminario Cerámicas
Internationally known local potter Pablo Seminario creates original work with a pre-conquest influence. His workshop, Seminario Cerámicas – actually a small factory – is open to the public and offers a well-organized tour through the entire ceramics process.
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Tres Keros Restaurant Grill & Bar
Garrulous chef Ricardo Behar dishes up rich, flavorful novoandina fare to pique any gourmet’s interest. He also smokes his own trout and imports steak from Argentina – he’s serious about his food, and you will be too after you try it. It’s 500m west of town.
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Blue Llama
Blue Llama’s surreal, dream-like interior with a children’s-story theme is inviting enough. Happy staff, unusually Western-minded vegetarian dishes (steamed vegetables!), desserts to die for, and some funky jewelry and clothes on sale make it irresistible.
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Ulrike’s Café
This sunny cafe serves up a great vegetarian menú, plus homemade pastas and melt-in-the-mouth cheesecake and brownies. There’s a book exchange, DVDs and special events such as yoga classes. English, French and German are spoken.
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Museo CATCCO
Local community history and ethnography are the main focus of the lovingly tended Museo CATCCO. Its displays hold a wealth of fascinating information, all in Spanish, about archaeology, agriculture and religious belief.
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Sota Adventure
Sota Adventure is highly recommended, particularly for horseback riding. The family-run business also offers mountain biking, multi-day hikes and river rafting; however, this area is not recommended for rafting.
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Ganso
Treehouse meets circus meets Batman! The hallucinatory decor in tiny, friendly Ganso is enough to drive anyone to drink. The firemen’s pole and swing seats are the icing on the cake.
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El Antojito
Offers an exemplary bargain menú – it’s one of the best deals in the Sacred Valley.
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Bar Cactus
As well as cheap drinks and plenty of chat, Bar Cactus offers a S10 menú till 9pm.
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