Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús

Lonely Planet review

This church is often lit up at night and can be seen from the train as you come in from Machu Picchu after dark. Its foundations are built upon the palace of Huayna Capac, the last Inca to rule an undivided, unconquered empire. Built by the Jesuits in 1571, it was reconstructed after a 1650 earthquake.

The Jesuits planned to make it the most magnificent of Cuzco's churches. However, the archbishop of Cuzco complained that its splendor should not rival that of the cathedral, and the squabble grew to a point where Pope Paul III was called upon to arbitrate. His decision was in favor of the cathedral, but by the time word had reached Cuzco, La Compañía de Jesús was just about finished, complete with an incredible baroque facade that makes it one of Cuzco's most ornate churches.

Two large canvases near the main door show early marriages in Cuzco - note their wealth of period detail. Local student guides are available to show you around, taking visitors through the catacombs underneath the main altar and to the second floor via rickety steps for a grand view. Tips are gratefully accepted.