Sights in Central Highlands
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A
Museo de Arte Popular
The Museo de Arte Popular is in the 18th-century Casa Chacón, adjoining the Banco de Crédito. The popular art covers the ayacucheño (natives of Ayacucho) spectrum – silverwork, rug- and tapestry-weaving, stone and woodcarvings, ceramics (model churches are especially popular) and the famous retablos (ornamental religious dioramas). These are colorful wooden boxes varying in size and containing intricate papier-mâché models; Peruvian rural scenes or the nativity are particularly popular, but some interesting ones with political or social commentary can be seen here. Old and new photographs show how Ayacucho changed during the 20th century. Opening hours here change fr…
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Temple of Kotosh
The archaeological site of the Temple of Kotosh is also known as the Temple of the Crossed Hands because of the life-sized mud molding of a pair of crossed hands, which is the site’s highlight. The molding dates to about 2000 BC and is now at Lima’s Museo Nacional de Antropología, Arqueología e Historía del Perú; a replica remains. Little is known about Kotosh, one of the most ancient of Andean cultures. The temple site is not in great shape, but is easily visited by taxi (S12, including a 30-minute wait and return) or the bus to La Unión. In the hills 2km above the site, Quillaromi cave has impressive prehistoric paintings. Kotosh is about 5km west of town off t…
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Cathedral
The 17th-century cathedral, on the Plaza de Armas, has a religious-art museum. The cathedral and a dozen other colonial churches from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries are well worth a visit for their incredibly ornate facades and interiors, mainly Spanish baroque but often with Andean influences evinced by the plants and animals depicted. Ayacucho claims to have 33 churches (one for each year of Christ's life) but there are in fact several more.
The most important of Ayacucho's churches are marked on the map. Except for during Semana Santa (when churches are open for most of the day), opening hours are erratic; ask at the tourist office.
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Señor Alejandro Cipriano
Perhaps the most interesting excursion on the east side is a visit to the twin villages of Cochas Grande and Cochas Chico, about 11km from Huancayo. These villages are the major production centers for the incised gourds that have made the district famous. Oddly enough, the gourds are grown mainly on the coast, in the Chiclayo and Ica areas. Once transported into the highlands, they are dried and scorched, then decorated using woodworking tools. The house of Señor Alejandro Cipriano is recommended for seeing the finished products.
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Museo Arqueológico Hipólito Unanue
The Museo Arqueológico Hipólito Unanue is in the Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar at the university, located more than 1km from the town center along Independencia – you can’t miss it. Wari ceramics make up most of the small exhibition, along with relics from the region’s other various civilizations. While there, check out the university library for a free exhibition of mummies, skulls and other niceties. The buildings are set in a botanical garden. The best time to visit the museum is in the morning: afternoon hours sometimes aren’t adhered to.
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Wari Ruins
An attractive 37km road climbs about 550m to Quinua, 20km along which you will pass the extensive Wari ruins sprawling for several kilometers by the roadside. The five main sectors of the ruins are marked by road signs; the upper sites are in rather bizarre forests of Opuntia cacti. If you visit, don’t leave the site too late to look for onward or return transport – vehicles can get hopelessly full in the afternoon. Note that you have to pay the full fare to Quinua and remind the driver to drop you off at the ruins.
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C
Prefectura
Most of the old mansions are now mainly political offices and can be visited, usually during business hours. The offices of the Department of Ayacucho (the Prefectura) on the Plaza de Armas are a good example. The mansion was constructed between 1740 and 1755 and sold to the state in 1937. On the ground floor is a pretty courtyard where visitors can see the cell of the local heroine of independence, María Parado de Bellido. Go upstairs to see some excellent tilework.
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Museo Andrés Avelino Cáceres
The Museo Andrés Avelino Cáceres is housed in the Casona Vivanco, a gorgeous 16th-century mansion. Cáceres was a local man who commanded Peruvian troops during the War of the Pacific (1879–83) against Chile. Accordingly, the museum houses maps and military paraphernalia from that period, as well as colonial art: check the painting of the Last Supper – with cuy !
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Astronomical Observatory
Tarma is high in the mountains and the clear nights of June, July and August provide ideal opportunities for stargazing, though the surrounding mountains do limit the amount of observable heavens. A small astronomical observatory is run by the owners of Hospedaje Central: admission includes an entertaining talk (in Spanish) on constellations and a peek at some stars.
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D
Palacio del Marqués
On the north side of the plaza are several fine colonial houses, including the Palacio del Marqués, at Portal Unión 37, which is the oldest and dates from 1550. There are various others scattered around the town center, many housing professional offices; the tourist office can suggest which ones to visit.
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Museum
Near the village church on an old-fashioned cobblestone plaza, a small museum with erratic hours displays various relics from the major independence battle fought in this area.
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Iglesia San Francisco
The Iglesia San Francisco is Huánuco’s most appealing church, with lavish baroque-style altars and interesting escuela cuzqueña paintings.
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Iglesia de San Francisco de Asis
This is a visually striking stone church containing retablos (ornamental religious dioramas) and an attractive 17th-century adjoining convent.
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Museo Salesiano
Museo Salesiano can be entered from the Salesian school. It has Amazon fauna, pottery and archaeology exhibits. Hours vary.
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Consejo Municipal
Worth a look is the Salon de Actas in the Consejo Municipal, next to the cathedral, with its excellent view of the plaza.
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Iglesia de La Merced
Dating from 1550, full of colonial art and with one of Peru’s oldest convents (1540) attached.
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Iglesia de Santa Clara
Attracts thousands of pilgrims annually for the image of Jesus of Nazareth supposedly inside.
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Iglesia de Santa Teresa
Gorgeous church-cum-monastery with an altar studded in seashells.
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