Things to do in Ayacucho
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Semana Santa
Ayacucho's Semana Santa celebration, held the week before Easter, has long been considered Peru's finest religious festival and it attracts visitors - though relatively few foreigners - from all over the country. Rooms in the better hotels are booked well in advance, and even the cheapest places fill completely. The tourist office has lists of local families who provide accommodations for the overflow.
Each year, iPerú prints a free brochure describing the Semana Santa events with street maps showing the main processions. Visitors are advised to use this detailed information. The celebrations begin on the Friday before Palm Sunday and continue for 10 days until Easter Sun…
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Museo de Arte Popular
The Museo de Arte Popular is in the 18th-century Casa Chacón, adjoining the Banco de Crédito. The popular art covers the ayacucheño (natives of Ayacucho) spectrum – silverwork, rug- and tapestry-weaving, stone and woodcarvings, ceramics (model churches are especially popular) and the famous retablos (ornamental religious dioramas). These are colorful wooden boxes varying in size and containing intricate papier-mâché models; Peruvian rural scenes or the nativity are particularly popular, but some interesting ones with political or social commentary can be seen here. Old and new photographs show how Ayacucho changed during the 20th century. Opening hours here change fr…
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Cathedral
The 17th-century cathedral, on the Plaza de Armas, has a religious-art museum. The cathedral and a dozen other colonial churches from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries are well worth a visit for their incredibly ornate facades and interiors, mainly Spanish baroque but often with Andean influences evinced by the plants and animals depicted. Ayacucho claims to have 33 churches (one for each year of Christ's life) but there are in fact several more.
The most important of Ayacucho's churches are marked on the map. Except for during Semana Santa (when churches are open for most of the day), opening hours are erratic; ask at the tourist office.
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Museo Arqueológico Hipólito Unanue
The Museo Arqueológico Hipólito Unanue is in the Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar at the university, located more than 1km from the town center along Independencia – you can’t miss it. Wari ceramics make up most of the small exhibition, along with relics from the region’s other various civilizations. While there, check out the university library for a free exhibition of mummies, skulls and other niceties. The buildings are set in a botanical garden. The best time to visit the museum is in the morning: afternoon hours sometimes aren’t adhered to.
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Alfonso Sulca Chavez
Ayacucho is famous as a handicraft center, and a visit to the Museo de Arte Popular will give you an idea of local products. The tourist office can recommend local artisans who will welcome you to their workshops. The Santa Ana barrio is particularly well known. The area around the Plazuela Santa Ana has various workshops, including that of Alfonso Sulca Chavez, whose family has been weaving here for three generations.
Sulca's weavings cost considerably less when bought directly from the artist rather than from shops in Lima.
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Prefectura
Most of the old mansions are now mainly political offices and can be visited, usually during business hours. The offices of the Department of Ayacucho (the Prefectura) on the Plaza de Armas are a good example. The mansion was constructed between 1740 and 1755 and sold to the state in 1937. On the ground floor is a pretty courtyard where visitors can see the cell of the local heroine of independence, María Parado de Bellido. Go upstairs to see some excellent tilework.
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Museo Andrés Avelino Cáceres
The Museo Andrés Avelino Cáceres is housed in the Casona Vivanco, a gorgeous 16th-century mansion. Cáceres was a local man who commanded Peruvian troops during the War of the Pacific (1879–83) against Chile. Accordingly, the museum houses maps and military paraphernalia from that period, as well as colonial art: check the painting of the Last Supper – with cuy !
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Palacio del Marqués
On the north side of the plaza are several fine colonial houses, including the Palacio del Marqués, at Portal Unión 37, which is the oldest and dates from 1550. There are various others scattered around the town center, many housing professional offices; the tourist office can suggest which ones to visit.
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Adolfo's Gourmet
If you can score one of the seven outside balcony tables, you'll dine with one of the best views in Ayacucho: the Plaza de Armas and all its activity. Upstairs on the 2nd floor Adolfo's does pizzas, pastas and a sprinkling of Peruvian dishes. Good sangria and excellent pizza make for a satisfying feed.
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El Niño
In a colonial mansion with a sheltered patio containing tables overlooking a garden, El Niño specializes in grills yet dishes up a variety of Peruvian food. The individual parrillada is good, although in practice sufficient for two modest eaters. This is one of the city’s best restaurants.
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Urpicha
This is a homey place, with tables in a flower-filled patio and an authentic menu. Order the house special: the chef’s mix of the top dishes of the day. It has a bit of a local cult following and few outsiders make it down here. However, the neighborhood isn’t great, so take a taxi after dark.
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Wallpa Sua
This is an upscale, locally popular and ever-busy chicken restaurant, with a quarter-chicken and fries starting at S6 and various other meat plates (like beef-heart brochettes) available. Wallpa sua is Quechua for ‘chicken thief’ – makes you wonder where it gets its poultry supplies.
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Cuatro Leños
Chronic carnivores can take pleasure in sinking their teeth into a variety of ample parrilladas including anticucho de corazón (beef-heart kebabs) or a filling parilla mixta especial with pork, chicken and res. There's also karaoke performances in the evenings.
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La Casona
This popular, ambient restaurant has been recommended by many for its big portions. It focuses on Peruvian food like the excellent lomo saltado and often has regional specialties but seems to have difficulty serving even slightly chilled beer.
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Café Miel
Breakfast is the best time to visit this recommended place with its chirpy atmosphere and checkered tablecloths – we’re talking great fruit salads and Ayacucho’s best (freshly brewed) coffee. It serves hearty lunches and great chocolate cake too.
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Centro Turístico Cultural San Cristóbal
This is a remodeled colonial building transformed into a hip little mall. Here you’ll find bars, restaurants and coffee shops, along with art galleries, craft stores and flower stands. A nice place to hang during the day.
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Los Balcones
The popular venue has occasional live Andean bands and a variety of recorded Andean, Latin, reggae and Western rock music to dance to. Its balconies offer a less-loud environment for conversation.
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Restaurant Los Alamos
In an attractive patio within the hotel of the same name, this restaurant has good service and a long menu of Peruvian selections and a few vegetarian plates; it may have musicians in the evening.
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Warpa Picchu Eco-Aventura
Experienced, multi-lingual guide Pierre Verbist offers adventure tours in the area, including by 4WD. You can contact Pierre in advance to arrange tours; his central office is at San Martín 425.
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Via Via
Via Via runs Quechua courses. Fees are S30 per lesson for private tuition and significantly less for groups.
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Consejo Municipal
Worth a look is the Salon de Actas in the Consejo Municipal, next to the cathedral, with its excellent view of the plaza.
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Pizzería Italiana
The wood-burning oven makes this a very cozy place on cold nights; musicians may wander in and the pizza is excellent.
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The Rock
This is the liveliest local disco, known locally as Maxxo, where gringos, as well as locals, go to strut their stuff.
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Urpillay Tours
Urpillay Tours cater mainly to Peruvian tourists and their guides mainly speak Spanish.
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Wari Tours
Wari Tours cater mainly to Peruvian tourists and their guides mainly speak Spanish.
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