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Getting there & around

The bus terminal is a 15-minute walk from the plaza. Buses to Arequipa (US$2.40, three hours) or to Cabanaconde (US$1, 2½ hours), stopping at towns along the southern side of the canyon and Cruz del Cóndor, leave four times daily.

Combis and colectivo taxis run to the surrounding villages from street corners in the market area, just north of the main plaza. Mountain bikes in varying condition can be readily hired from travel agencies on the plaza or at BiciSport (Zaramilla 112; 9am-6pm) behind the market for about US$1.50 per hour, or US$7 per day.

Traveling onward to Cuzco from Chivay may be possible, but it’s overly complicated and not recommended. Although some travelers have managed to catch combis to Puente Callalli and flag down a bus there, it’s much safer and probably just as fast to return to Arequipa instead.