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Ary Quepay
This place offers traditional plates, including alpaca and cuy (guinea pig), in a colonial-style building that extends out to a dimly lit rustic area dripping with plants. There's enthusiastic música folklórica most evenings.
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Cafe Casa Verde
This nonprofit courtyard café staffed by underprivileged kids is the perfect morning or afternoon break spot. It dishes up yummy German-style pastries, sandwiches, cappuccinos and fresh juices, so why not set up the chessboard and stay a while?
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Cafe Restaurant Antojitos de Arequipa
This café-restaurant is a bright beacon in the dead of night. An enormous menu of comfort food and Peruvian favorites, plus espresso machines and locks on the chairs for safeguarding your pack make it ideal for waiting out that tiresome late-night bus departure.
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Cevichería Fory Fay
Small and to-the-point, it serves only the best ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lime juice) - and nothing else. Pull up a chair at a rickety table and crack open a beer - limit one per person, though! By the way, the name is a phonetic spelling of how Peruvians say '45' in English.
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Cusco Coffee Company
This Starbucks-style haute Peruvian coffee shop has the most chatty baristas in town selling sugary baked goods and a full menu of espresso drinks made from beans grown in the Amazon jungle.
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El Gaucho Parrilladas
Not one for vegetarians - these guys are experts in steak and steak alone, and they don't skimp on portions. On a lower level off the Plaza de Armas, the restaurant has a snug atmosphere. All the city's movers and shakers dine here, so make reservations in advance.
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El Turko I
Part of an ever expanding Ottoman empire, this funky little joint serves a hungry crowd its late-night kebabs and vegetarian Middle Eastern salads, but is also an excellent java and sweet pastries stop during the day. There's another branch, El Turko III, at the airport.
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El Turko II
Right in the thick of things on San Francisco, the brother of El Turko I is a highly recommended Middle Eastern restaurant. Sizzling platters of kebabs and other carnivorous and vegetarian specialties are served in surroundings worthy of an art gallery. It's romantic and the service is well polished.
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Fez
Have you been craving authentic felafel ever since you landed in South America? Step right up to the counter here and order yourself a sandwich dripping with juicy goodness - and don't forget the rich coffee either. Garden tables are out the back.
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Inkari Pub Pizzeria
This pizzeria has a delicious happy-hour special of a personal pizza and a copa de vino (glass of wine).
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La Cantarilla
You'll be greeted by an ostrich statue at this rustic open-air restaurant in the southwestern suburb of Sachaca. Mostly catering to tour groups, it serves some international fare as well as good-quality Arequipeño food, including freshwater shrimp.
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La Trattoria del Monasterio
A helping of epicurean delight has finally descended upon the Monasterio Santa Catalina. In a gracious light-filled dining room with colonial walls, the menu of Italian specialties is infused with the flavors of Arequipa, all from the imagination of superstar Peruvian chef Gastón Arcurio. Reservations are essential.
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La Viñeda
An intimate spot, this is one of the best places to knock back a steak or platters of traditional Peruvian food, all in an ornate Victorian atmosphere. The wine list features South American varietals.
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Lakshmivan
Set in a colorful old building with a tiny outdoor courtyard, this place has various menús (set meals) and an extensive à la carte selection, all with South Asian flair. Service can be slow.
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Los Guisos Arequipeños
This huge, barnlike formal restaurant is in the suburb of Lambramani, 2km southeast of the center. Along with bow-tied waiters, it has bountiful gardens and occasional live music.
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Los Leños
Pizzas for homesick travelers are baked in a wood-burning oven that adds warmth to the laid-back atmosphere. Rock music is the only soundtrack. If you're more impressed by the food than we were, add your personalized scribble to the already-covered-with-graffiti walls.
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Mandala
This humble, health-minded café affably cooks up quick, quality vegetarian fare (breakfasts are huge!) in a subterranean space with tables that probably look just like the ones at your grandmother's house.
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Manolo's
With a decidedly retro atmosphere, this mirror-filled café looks as if it were established in the early days of the Republic. Its endless menu lists coffees, ice creams, desserts, sandwiches and full home-style Peruvian meals.
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Mixtos
Tucked away in the alley behind the cathedral on the Plaza de Armas is this popular and quaint restaurant that serves mainly Italian and criollo (spicy Peruvian fare with Spanish and African influences) seafood dishes. It has outdoor balconies and tables.
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Nina-Yaku
This nouveau Peruvian eatery wouldn't look a bit out of place in NYC's Soho or Buenos Aires' Palermo Hollywood. The modern menu includes reinventions of traditional arequipeño tastes, with salads, sandwiches and tastebud-tingling desserts, plus coffees and cocktails.
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Paquita Sim
Worth going out of your way for, this family-run Asian fusion restaurant is a feast for the senses, with Chinese, Japanese and Thai influences on the gourmet menu. It's one block southeast of the intersection of Avs Ejercito and Cayma.
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Restaurante Gopal
This basic, health-conscious vegetarian café specializes in traditional Peruvian dishes made with imitation meats, so you can enjoy lomo saltado (strips of beef stir-fried with onions, tomatoes, potatoes and chili) without guilt.
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Ribs Cafe
This surprising storefront cooks up BBQ ribs in a rainbow variety of sauces, from honey-mustard to chocolate to red wine, along with empanadas (meat or cheese turnovers) stuffed with everything imaginable and solid American breakfasts.
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Sambambaia's
Just 2km outside of the center, this restaurant is an elegant upper-crust alternative with Brazilian specialties, live piano music and a tropical garden setting. Call ahead for reservations.
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Sol de Mayo
Serving good Peruvian food in the Yanahuara district, Sol de Mayo has live música folklórica every afternoon. Book a table in advance. You can combine a visit here with a stop-off at the mirador (lookout) in Yanahuara.
