Things to do in The Sepik
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Haus Tambarans
There are numerous villages around Maprik, many with a striking, forward-leaning haus tambaran, an architectural style echoed in such modern buildings as Parliament House in Port Moresby. The front façade of the Maprik haus tambarans are brightly painted in browns, ochres, whites and blacks and in some cases reach 30m high.
Without your own vehicle getting to the various villages can be problematic. Speak to the owner of the Maprik Wakin Hotel to arrange an impromptu tour. Traditionally haus tambarans were exclusively an initiated-man's domain, but these days the rules are usually bent for Western travellers. Locals usually charge to enter and a photography fee. There is…
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Surfing
One claim to fame that Vanimo does have is the best surf in PNG, and it's one of the primary reasons why people come to Vanimo. The surf is strictly seasonal, from October through April, when monsoon swells bring waves between 3ft and 6ft. Vanimo and around has excellent point breaks and beach breaks with consistently good surf. There's a local bunch of surfers known as the Lido Surf Club - an informal collective who show visiting surfers around in a banana boat out to the nearby island breaks.
They can even arrange accommodation in local villages. There's no surf-rage in PNG and the scene is just in its infancy. BYO boards.
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headland
There's a pleasant two-hour walk around the headland, but carry water and sun protection. People in the villages here don't get a lot of tourists or even a lot of local passers-by so be respectful as you enter an area and seek approval before moving on. There's good snorkelling offshore and the beaches are sensational, but ask before stripping down and plunging in.
Another good walk is west along the beach from the airport. After 40 minutes you come to a limestone headland draped with vines - wade around it to the beautiful beach on the other side. There's a rusting Japanese landing barge just offshore.
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main market
The main market, at the west end of the town's main shopping strip is pretty colourful thanks to the multitude of umbrellas used to shade the merchants. There are a few bilums (string bags) and occasionally, some small trinkets for sale; otherwise it's largely all local produce on offer. The dried fish can get fairly 'ripe' in the hot sun but it's worth poking around here to see if anyone has brought in a live baby crocodile to sell - usually with its snout tied shut.
This is also the main PMV stop.
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Mission Point to Cape Boram
Near the main wharf lie the rusting remains of MV Busama. Further down at Kreer, on the road to the airport, there's the wooden hulk of a Taiwanese fishing junk. On the beach between Kreer Market and the hospital are some rapidly disappearing rusting Japanese landing barges. The Japanese War Memorial marks the mass grave of many troops. The soldier's bodies were later exhumed and returned to Japan.
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Japanese Memorial Peace Park
This park contains a memorial and a fish pond. Tok Pisin doesn't have a word for peace; 'Peace' sounds like pis, which means fish. Thus, most locals refer to the park as pis park, which is perhaps appropriate given the fish pond and the general ambivalence that many modern Papua New Guineans have towards WWII. Ironically, the peace park is enclosed by a wire fence.
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Vanimo Forest Products
The Malaysian logging company Vanimo Forest Products is logging the province and there are business opportunities with cross-border trade. Hopes are high for development even though the Indonesian and Malaysian business people seem to have a disdain for the local service workers that is quite palpable and uncomfortable.
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Sepik Adventure Tours
The most visible of the local operators and a valuable source of information. Friendly Alois Mateos also owns Ambunti Lodge on the Upper Sepik and specialises in all-inclusive tours based there. Bear in mind that four of those days are actually spent in Wewak or travelling to/from Pagwi.
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Wewak Yacht Club
The yacht club overlooks a nice part of the harbour. There aren't too many yachts tied up, and the patrons are mostly Wewak locals and expats who come for drinks and simple pub-grub. Dances are held here every couple of months and while the club is for members, tourists are welcomed.
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Narimo Island
Narimo Island can be seen offshore from the Vanimo Beach Hotel. This is an excellent place for picnics and swimming. The hotel may be able to arrange a boat to take you there or else ask about boat hire at West Deco village near the main wharf on the other side of the peninsula.
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snorkelling
There's excellent snorkelling around the Wewak headland, over the outer reef and off the nearby islands. Like many coastal places in PNG, the diving conditions around Wewak are sensational - reefs, wrecks, tropical fish - but there's no organised diving industry in Wewak.
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Surfing
Between mid-October and late April monsoon swells bring waves between 3ft and 8ft to PNG's northern coast, and there are several good breaks around Wewak. Some of the hotels have surfboards, but they're pretty battered - surfers usually bring their own.
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source of the Sepik
The local MAF pilots and pastors give excellent advice on local walks including a three hour trek to the source of the Sepik. Between 1912 and 1914, Richard Thurnwald walked some hard yards following the Sepik to this stream not far from Telefomin.
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Surfing Association of Papua New Guinea
In February 2007 the Surfing Association of Papua New Guinea held the national surf titles here and by all accounts some got 'axed by gnarly bombs in the green room' while others 'boosted some major, bitchin' air' - umm right.
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Ralf Stüttgen
Ralf Stüttgen has a vast array of Sepik carvings collected over a lifetime with pieces from 50 different villages. His artefacts are for sale, or he can tell you where to buy particular pieces on the river.
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The Vanilla Room
The Vanilla Room is reasonably priced and serves local food prepared to international standards with dishes such as seared yellow-finned tuna or chicken in green coconut curry. Yum.
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Songitin eternal flame
Children can guide you to Songitin eternal flame. Bring your matches to light the natural gas that seeps from the ground as the rain will have put it out.
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Swimming
Wewak's beaches are excellent - long stretches of white sand that fall away gently under the water. The water is clean and clear, warm and very inviting.
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Gala Ice Cream Bar
The best kai bar in town with outside seating on the waterfront. They serve a decent chicken and chips and three flavours of ice cream.
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Kreer market
There are several other markets around Wewak, of which Kreer market, on the airport road just before it turns inland, is the most interesting.
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tennis
The tennis club on Wewak hill is seldom manned. Bring your own racquet and if anyone shows up, blame it on this guide (and sort out the fee).
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Christian Bookshop
The Christian Bookshop sells the 1:500000 East Sepik and Sandaun Provinces detailing the Sepik in all its coiled, twisted glory.
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Nuigo market
There is also Nuigo market which sells buai, pitpit and sometimes woven pandanus satchels.
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Dagua market
There is also Dagua market which sells buai, pitpit and sometimes woven pandanus satchels.
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golf
There's an 18-hole golf course beyond the airport. It has a pleasant clubhouse for its 52 members.
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