Things to do in The Highlands
-
PNG High Country Tours
Samuel Lulu runs tours and treks around the jungles and caves of the Eastern Highlands and out towards Simbu. He offers village accommodation in the Namasaro Unggai district west of Goroka.
reviewed
-
Mt Hagen Show
It's not as big as the Goroka Show, but the Mt Hagen Show is definitely a must-see. It's held annually, on the third weekend of August. The cheap 'general admission' won't allow you access to the singsing groups until much later, and then, only from the surrounding banks.
The two-day pass allows you to arrive early and see the groups dressing and donning their feathered headdresses. Vigorous impromptu performances at this time can be more powerful, even ribald, compared to the formal stuff dished up in the arena. Contrary to what you might fear, there's no general bird of paradise slaughter just before show time - the feather headdresses and costumes are extremely valuabl…
reviewed
-
Pindaunde Lakes
The climb goes up to the Pindaunde Lakes from the high school and disused airstrip at Kegsugl. The lakes sit at 3500m and the views are incredible. The National Parks Board huts are a four- to five-hour walk from Kegsugl. It is customary to spend at least one night here before tackling the summit the next morning. Some say it's better to spend another day acclimatising and exploring the area before the final push.
From the Pindaunde Lakes, it's a long, hard walk to the summit - anything from five to eight hours. It can get cold, wet, windy and foggy at the top, so bring warm clothes and a change of socks as your legs will be wet from rain or just brushing past wet plants.…
reviewed
-
Goroka Show
The Goroka Show, is held over the Independence Day weekend (mid-September) at the National Sports Institute. It attracts more singsing groups than Mt Hagen's show and there are also bands and other cultural activities, as well as some elements of an agricultural show. The show is the glamour event on the social calendar for many performers and it is extraordinary how many feathers one person can squeeze onto a headdress.
Performers all receive a payment from the proceeds and you are neither expected nor encouraged to tip individuals. Make accommodation arrangements early as many places (especially top-end hotels) are booked out months in advance. Prices, like a Highland h…
reviewed
-
Mt Wilhelm
While not technically difficult, this popular climb is hard work. Preparation is important and the dangers should not be underestimated. Climbers in this region have died. Don't try to climb the mountain on your own no matter how fit you are - a guide is essential. The final ascent starts in the black of early morning so that climbers get to see the dawn and both coasts before the clouds roll in.
If the weather is fine, the climb takes three or four days, but frequently the weather causes delays; take a book to read in the huts. There is a charge levied by the local landowner to climb the mountain.
reviewed
-
JK McCarthy Museum
JK McCarthy was one of PNG's legendary patrol officers and wrote one of the classic books on New Guinea patrolling - Patrol into Yesterday. The museum is not far from the National Sports Institute, but a long walk from the town centre.
Among the exhibits are pottery, weapons, clothes and musical instruments, and even some grisly jewellery - Anga mourning necklaces of human fingers! 'Peer through the mists of time' courtesy of a fascinating collection of photos - many taken by Mick Leahy when he first reached the area in 1933. There are also WWII relics, including a P-39 Aircobra.
reviewed
-
Tari Basin
The Tari Basin and the Tari Gap are world renowned birding spots, and because the altitude ranges from 1700m to 2800m through a variety of habitats there is a high diversity of species. Tari is a particularly blessed with birds of paradise including the King of Saxony and the Blue bird of paradise. Sir David Attenborough visited the area when making his documentary Attenborough in Paradise (1996) and really put the place on the maps of twitchers.
The best of the birds can be seen between July and October when their plumage is at its zenith.
reviewed
-
Hagen market
The Hagen market is one of PNG's biggest and most varied (Saturday is the big day). It's the best place to buy bilums and Highland hats. There's also a vast range of fresh produce on sale and if you're lucky you may also see cuscus, pigs and birds trussed up on poles or in enclosures.
It's busy each day and thieves work the crowd. They're mostly kids working in tandem - one might distract you while another snatches a bag or wallet. The atmosphere in the market can be edgy, and the best way to make friends is to buy stuff.
reviewed
-
Trans Niugini Tours
Trans Niugini Tours is one of the main inbound tour companies in PNG, and organises tours and activities across the country. It's well organised, professional and rather expensive. Its packages include meals and activities and guests are ferried to their six eco-lodges by private aircraft and stay in absolute luxury.
The lodges are Tari's Ambua Lodge; the Sepik's Karawari Lodge and its boat the Sepik Spirit; Malolo Plantation Lodge north of Madang; Bensbach Wildlife Lodge in the Western Province; and Mt Hagen's very own Rondon Ridge.
reviewed
-
Chevron Niugini
The big oil project near Lake Kutubu has changed the Mendi area, and local people are used to dealing with oil workers with fat wallets and expense accounts. Prices asked to cross a bridge or walk across land can be outrageous. Oil began flowing through the pipeline down to the Gulf of Papua in 1992. Chevron Niugini has a good reputation, fulfilling its agreements with the local landowners, the Foi and Fasu people.
There's a road from Mendi to Pimaga and on to Moro and the company headquarters near the northwest end of Lake Kutubu.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
market
The open-air market is interesting to walk through. It's very busy on Saturday, but colourful any day and you'll see piles of potatoes and exotic leafy greens as well as more familiar tomatoes, capsicums and avocados. Bilums and Highland hats are sold, as are spools of intensely colourful twines and strings used in bilum manufacture. Watch out for pickpockets.
reviewed
-
museum
There's a tiny museum in a stockaded compound and most of the items in the small display are for sale. The place is a sort of old mens' home and a couple of older fellows show you around and accept your donation. The covered structure in the compound is the grave of a former provincial premier, and you'll see similar (but usually smaller) structures all around the Tari area.
reviewed
-
Keu Caves
Caves around Kundiawa were used as burial places. At the time of research, it wasn't clear whether a local guide could take you there. Don't visit the caves without consulting local advice as it might be tambu (taboo). There are other large caves, suitable for caving, close to Kundiawa, while the Keu Caves are very close to the main road near Chuave.
reviewed
-
skull caves
It is possible to visit the skull caves of Bebere and Kosame, where traditional burial rites are still observed. Custom dictates that the bodies of dead relatives are placed into the hull of a canoe and interred in a cave until the flesh has rotted from the bones. The skeletons are then removed, cleaned and displayed on the walls of the caves.
reviewed
-
Raun Raun Theatre
Goroka's acclaimed theatre group, Raun Raun Theatre, has toured nationally and internationally. The theatre is a superb building, which blends traditional materials and modern architecture. It's located on parkland about 500m due north of the post office. Performances are irregular, but you might get lucky.
reviewed
-
Birding tours
Birding tours take in the Tari Gap from the road and a few trails in the rainforest. Depending on which trees you visit, local landowners will expect compensation per site. Ambua Lodge and Warili Lodge run tours into the surrounding countryside, although Ambua does not really cater to casual drop-ins.
reviewed
-
Lake Kutubu
Kutubu is the Highlands' second-largest lake, and, at 800m above sea level, PNG's highest substantial body of water (although the Mt Wilhelm crater lakes are higher). It has a remarkable level of fish endemicity - 10 of the 14 species of fish are found only in this lake.
reviewed
-
Cultural tours
Cultural tours are far more varied and depend largely on your budget and what you want to see. Besides visiting the wigmen, tours may include visits to the widow village, singsings, spirit and sun dances, and initiation and courtship ceremony re-enactments.
reviewed
-
Trans Niugini Tours
The dry season (April to October) is the best time to climb and there are several ways to do it. Trans Niugini Tours can organise guides, porters, equipment and food. Or it is just as easy to hire your own guide in Kegsugl. Porters are cheaper at K40 to K60.
reviewed
-
PNG Highland Tours
The dry season (April to October) is the best time to climb and there are several ways to do it. PNG Highland Tours can organise guides, porters, equipment and food. Or it is just as easy to hire your own guide in Kegsugl. Porters are cheaper at K40 to K60.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
Hagen Club
Serves cold beer and good pub-style light meals during lunch, and cold beer and European dishes during dinner. The Mt Hagen Ball is held here to coincide with the show. Bring your tux, dancing shoes and see the manager for a ticket.
reviewed
-
Gembogl
Niglguma and Gembogl, both traditional high-altitude villages, are worth visiting - you can walk to Gembogl from Kegsugl in a couple of hours and, on the way, you pass through half-a-dozen villages, including Niglguma.
reviewed
-
artefacts shop
There's an artefacts shop near Mendi Motors that sells hand-loomed products, baskets and weapons. Mendi dolls make a good buy, although they are now rarely in the traditional designs, which had religious significance.
reviewed
-
PNG Coffee Festival
The PNG Coffee Festival is usually held over the first weekend in May at the Raun Raun Theatre. It features singsing groups, contemporary music, art exhibitions, a trade fair and formal coffee ball.
reviewed
-
Haus Kai Bilong ol Meri
Haus Kai Bilong ol Meri is the best place for lunch - it has good food and a shady place to sit. There is a small supermarket in Kundiawa and travellers recommend the bakery behind it for the cream buns.
reviewed
