Things to do in Morobe & Madang Provinces
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Rainforest Habitat
Visiting the Rainforest Habitat is like stepping into a microcosm of PNG's most exotic flora and fauna. It comprises about 3000 sq metres of reconstructed rainforest inside a covered shade house. It incorporates a lake, raised walkways and an abundance of plants and birds. Planting began in 1994 when 10,000, mostly native, plants were placed into the habitat. The guesthouse here has bunk beds, shared bathrooms and kitchen, which will appeal to those wanting to be near to nature, and far from everything else. Ring first.
Most people come to see the bird of paradise collection and orchid garden although the real star is 'Argo', the huge and largely inactive saltwater crocod…
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Tami Islands
Tami Islands are an idyllic collection of four coral atolls and every bit the South Sea cliché you could hope for - white sandy beaches, friendly locals, coconut palms and good snorkelling with none of the pesky western intrusions such as electricity, shops, food and reliable transport.
Tami Islanders are renowned carvers and you'll most certainly be shown the famous Tami Island bowls, although it is possible to purchase these on the mainland at Malasiga, a village recently settled by the Islanders. Enquire around Dregerhafen for boat departure times to the islands - market days are best. Unless you charter, plan to stay the night.
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Ramu River
After Bogia is a series of old coconut plantations, now home to many Manam Island relocation camps. Villagers have cut patches into the plantations to grow their gardens. Eventually the road narrows to a single-lane track and ends at a small, deep tidal river. If you are not up for swimming, hail the villagers on the other side for a lift in their canoe. To walk to the Ramu River mouth either follow the inland footpath through a swamp then onto the beach, or head for the beach directly.
The Ramu is too large to swim, so wave and shout madly to the folks in the fishing camp on the western shore.
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Lae War Cemetery
Lae War Cemetery, just south of the Botanical Gardens, is meticulously maintained by the Australian Government. There are 2808 graves here, 2363 of which are Australian and most of the rest are Indian, New Zealand and British. An Anzac (Australian New Zealand Army Corp) Day dawn service is held here every year commemorating those who lost their lives during WWII. If the war seems rather distant and unreal, pay a visit and read some of the headstones; the tributes can be quite moving.
There are security guards and it's quite safe to visit.
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Eden Restaurant
Admittedly, this restaurant doesn't make much of a first impression; it's right on the foreshore but cleverly designed to have no views at all. But people don't come for the view, they come for the fantastic lunchtime specials (around K12) and a bowl of fiery seafood laksa (curry noodles) that's guaranteed to knock your socks off. The dinner mains come in three sizes and made to share - bring your friends.
For the views, stroll on through to the Madang Country Club's clubhouse and buy yourself a beer.
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Botanical Gardens
Botanical gardens offers a pleasant stroll through a small patch of rainforest and grassland in the centre of Lae. The huge, vine-covered trees host colourful birds and butterflies, and the gardens have an exotic orchid collection. Officially, it's closed on weekdays but the guards at either the main northern gate (near the RAAF DC-3) or the southern gate (near Lae War Cemetery) usually let you in. Try to avoid coming here alone or phone ahead for a guide from the Forest Research Institute.
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Club 69
This is currently the club of choice with locals and expats alike. Security is top notch, which means you should be able to shake your booty to an eclectic mix of local reggae, R&B, hip-hop and pop on the packed dance floor in safety. There's no street sign; watch for the queue outside the stadium.
Lone women should find a friend before heading to a nightclub and generally travellers need to exercise judgement before embarking on a blinder in a public forum.
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Madang Resort Hotel Melanesian Tourist Services
Runs village tours to the south coast stopping at lookout points, war memorials and Bilbil village to buy pottery. Their harbour cruise uses banana boats to visit the rusting wreckage of Japanese landing craft and take in coral viewing through glass-bottomed boxes at Krangket Island.
Also operating out of Madang Resort is the new MTS Suwannee River, a 98-foot, luxurious live-aboard boat that is available for dive and fishing charters.
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Butterfly Ranch
Perhaps the most viable of the WEI's activities is its Butterfly Ranch. It supplies collectors around the world with examples of PNG's astounding variety of insects. The philosophy is that villagers earn money by collecting and selling butterflies, beetles and other insects that have already laid their eggs, thereby ensuring the procreation of their species. While earning an income, villagers also interact more closely with their environment.
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Bogia
Bogia is 185km northwest of Madang and the departure point for Manam Island. The road is sealed all the way to Bogia but peters out a short distance thereafter before the mighty Ramu River. At Bogia Bay, a Japanese Zero fighter lies upside down in the water a few hundred metres out from the jetty. Bogia town is a pretty place - the crystal-clean waters of the bay and the numerous traditional villages make it an ideal place to lose a few days.
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Snorkelling & Diving
Excellent visibility, stunning tropical coral and fish life and countless WWII wrecks make the diving and snorkelling around Madang world famous. Local favourites include Barracuda Point, Magic Passage, Planet Rock and Eel Gardens. There's also good snorkelling just off Lion's Reserve Beach and off the rocks at Madang Lodge and Smugglers Inn Resort, but watch the swell and the tides because the rocks, coral and sea urchins can be hazardous.
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Watam
If you are heading up the Ramu ask the men around here about boat departures otherwise continue walking along the coast (low tide only), through Marangis village, to Watam. Due to its strategic position, it is not surprising that Watam is one of the bigger villages in the area. Ask around for Felix Eddie who speaks excellent English and is knowledgeable on this area. From Watam, banana boats regularly leave for Angoram on the Sepik River.
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uplifted marine terraces
Further down the coast towards Sialum are some of the world's best examples of uplifted marine terraces. From the air it is possible to appreciate the ancient coral reefs that have been thrust upwards to form a geological staircase. The entire area, which also incorporates the Bobongara archaeological site (the oldest human habitation site in the Pacific outside of Australia), has been nominated as a World Heritage listing.
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Aero Bar
A quiet bar overlooking the foyer of the hotel and kitted out with WWII photography and aviation memorabilia. Collared shirts are mandatory. Downstairs the casual Sportsman Bar (open 09:00 till late) has a large-screen TV and slightly cheaper beer.
Lone women should find a friend before heading to a nightclub and generally travellers need to exercise judgement before embarking on a blinder in a public forum.
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Lae Yacht Club
The airy, informal 'Yachty' is in a prime position on the harbour and is good for both drinking and eating. Its Tuesday and Friday night barbecues are excellent value (your choice of steak plus chips and myriad salads). The clientele is largely (but not solely) drawn from the dwindling expat community. It's a great place to meet people even if at times the conversation can seem rather divorced from PNG realities.
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Coastwatchers' Memorial Beacon
The 30m-high Coastwatchers' Memorial beacon, visible 25km out to sea, is a reminder of those who stayed behind enemy lines during WWII to report on Japanese troop and ship movements. It's a rather ugly concrete memorial, but the 3km beach-front road south of the memorial is the most pleasant walk in Madang, fringed by palm trees and poincianas and backed by the golf course with fine views across Astrolabe Bay.
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Hansa Bay
Hansa Bay is a popular diving spot past Bogia, where the wreckage of 35 Japanese freighters and US aircraft lie in a shallow harbour. The upper deck of the 6000-ton Shishi Maru lies in just 6m of water, two anti-aircraft guns on the bow point upwards and brass shell castings litter the deck. Two fire engines are sitting in the hold, just before the bridge, where they were waiting to be unloaded.
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Aviat Club
Serves the cheapest beer and reasonable Chinese; it's a very local scene with snooker tables, pokies and a band most Wednesdays. The main bar is members-only but the nightclub is not and considerably rougher.
Lone women should find a friend before heading to a nightclub and generally travellers need to exercise judgement before embarking on a blinder in a public forum.
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Aquaventures PNG
Aquaventures at Jais Aben Resort won a PADI environmental award for raising locals' awareness of reef ecology and sustainable fishing practices. If you dive the nearby Mitchell B-25 bomber, ask to read their folder of information about the wreck. The brutally brief 'lost-in-action' telegrams are quite moving. Aquaventures comes highly recommended.
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Davit Wreck
Hansa Bay also has some spectacular wreck dives. A Japanese freighter has one davit projecting from the water (known as the Davit Wreck); it was sunk in 1943 by US bombers. You can swim through the wreck, which makes this an exciting dive in only 12m of water. The Madang dive shops organise dives to Hansa Bay and other north-coast sites.
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Niugini Diving Adventures
The equipment here is older than that of Aquaventures. Night diving is available. Niugini runs PADI open-water certification (around K1000), snorkelling cruises and one-day, two-dive packages (around K220 to around K290) of which the combination wreck/reef dive gives you the best of both worlds. You can also hire gear from both shops.
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WWII Dump
Towards the end of WWII the area was used as a staging post for US troops and vast numbers of GIs passed through. The war's abrupt end left millions of dollars worth of aircraft and equipment redundant, so the whole lot was bulldozed into a huge hole; ask at Dregerhafen High School, about 4km south of Gagidu Station, for directions.
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Planet Rock
A big nightclub opposite the old airfield where the music is deafening and security both inside and out is necessarily tight. There's no extra charge for fighting.
Lone women should find a friend before heading to a nightclub and generally travellers need to exercise judgement before embarking on a blinder in a public forum.
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Melanesian Arts Gallery & Tour Agency
Beside the old airstrip, the Melanesian Arts Gallery & Tour Agency is crammed from floor to rafter with an excellent array of artefacts. Beside the obligatory penis gourds you can pick up items from all over PNG including Sepik masks, Highland shields and Tami Island bowls. Prices are reasonable and shipping can be arranged.
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Wau Ecology Institute
There are several places around Wau and Bulolo of interest to walkers and nature lovers, particularly those with a thing for insects. The Wau Ecology Institute seems to be steadily running down, but its laboratory, library, museum, lecture theatre, large insect collection and accommodation are still operating.
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