Sights in Morobe & Madang Provinces
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Rainforest Habitat
Visiting the Rainforest Habitat is like stepping into a microcosm of PNG's most exotic flora and fauna. It comprises about 3000 sq metres of reconstructed rainforest inside a covered shade house. It incorporates a lake, raised walkways and an abundance of plants and birds. Planting began in 1994 when 10,000, mostly native, plants were placed into the habitat. The guesthouse here has bunk beds, shared bathrooms and kitchen, which will appeal to those wanting to be near to nature, and far from everything else. Ring first.
Most people come to see the bird of paradise collection and orchid garden although the real star is 'Argo', the huge and largely inactive saltwater crocod…
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Tami Islands
Tami Islands are an idyllic collection of four coral atolls and every bit the South Sea cliché you could hope for - white sandy beaches, friendly locals, coconut palms and good snorkelling with none of the pesky western intrusions such as electricity, shops, food and reliable transport.
Tami Islanders are renowned carvers and you'll most certainly be shown the famous Tami Island bowls, although it is possible to purchase these on the mainland at Malasiga, a village recently settled by the Islanders. Enquire around Dregerhafen for boat departure times to the islands - market days are best. Unless you charter, plan to stay the night.
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Ramu River
After Bogia is a series of old coconut plantations, now home to many Manam Island relocation camps. Villagers have cut patches into the plantations to grow their gardens. Eventually the road narrows to a single-lane track and ends at a small, deep tidal river. If you are not up for swimming, hail the villagers on the other side for a lift in their canoe. To walk to the Ramu River mouth either follow the inland footpath through a swamp then onto the beach, or head for the beach directly.
The Ramu is too large to swim, so wave and shout madly to the folks in the fishing camp on the western shore.
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Lae War Cemetery
Lae War Cemetery, just south of the Botanical Gardens, is meticulously maintained by the Australian Government. There are 2808 graves here, 2363 of which are Australian and most of the rest are Indian, New Zealand and British. An Anzac (Australian New Zealand Army Corp) Day dawn service is held here every year commemorating those who lost their lives during WWII. If the war seems rather distant and unreal, pay a visit and read some of the headstones; the tributes can be quite moving.
There are security guards and it's quite safe to visit.
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Botanical Gardens
Botanical gardens offers a pleasant stroll through a small patch of rainforest and grassland in the centre of Lae. The huge, vine-covered trees host colourful birds and butterflies, and the gardens have an exotic orchid collection. Officially, it's closed on weekdays but the guards at either the main northern gate (near the RAAF DC-3) or the southern gate (near Lae War Cemetery) usually let you in. Try to avoid coming here alone or phone ahead for a guide from the Forest Research Institute.
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Butterfly Ranch
Perhaps the most viable of the WEI's activities is its Butterfly Ranch. It supplies collectors around the world with examples of PNG's astounding variety of insects. The philosophy is that villagers earn money by collecting and selling butterflies, beetles and other insects that have already laid their eggs, thereby ensuring the procreation of their species. While earning an income, villagers also interact more closely with their environment.
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Bogia
Bogia is 185km northwest of Madang and the departure point for Manam Island. The road is sealed all the way to Bogia but peters out a short distance thereafter before the mighty Ramu River. At Bogia Bay, a Japanese Zero fighter lies upside down in the water a few hundred metres out from the jetty. Bogia town is a pretty place - the crystal-clean waters of the bay and the numerous traditional villages make it an ideal place to lose a few days.
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Watam
If you are heading up the Ramu ask the men around here about boat departures otherwise continue walking along the coast (low tide only), through Marangis village, to Watam. Due to its strategic position, it is not surprising that Watam is one of the bigger villages in the area. Ask around for Felix Eddie who speaks excellent English and is knowledgeable on this area. From Watam, banana boats regularly leave for Angoram on the Sepik River.
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uplifted marine terraces
Further down the coast towards Sialum are some of the world's best examples of uplifted marine terraces. From the air it is possible to appreciate the ancient coral reefs that have been thrust upwards to form a geological staircase. The entire area, which also incorporates the Bobongara archaeological site (the oldest human habitation site in the Pacific outside of Australia), has been nominated as a World Heritage listing.
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Coastwatchers' Memorial Beacon
The 30m-high Coastwatchers' Memorial beacon, visible 25km out to sea, is a reminder of those who stayed behind enemy lines during WWII to report on Japanese troop and ship movements. It's a rather ugly concrete memorial, but the 3km beach-front road south of the memorial is the most pleasant walk in Madang, fringed by palm trees and poincianas and backed by the golf course with fine views across Astrolabe Bay.
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Hansa Bay
Hansa Bay is a popular diving spot past Bogia, where the wreckage of 35 Japanese freighters and US aircraft lie in a shallow harbour. The upper deck of the 6000-ton Shishi Maru lies in just 6m of water, two anti-aircraft guns on the bow point upwards and brass shell castings litter the deck. Two fire engines are sitting in the hold, just before the bridge, where they were waiting to be unloaded.
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Davit Wreck
Hansa Bay also has some spectacular wreck dives. A Japanese freighter has one davit projecting from the water (known as the Davit Wreck); it was sunk in 1943 by US bombers. You can swim through the wreck, which makes this an exciting dive in only 12m of water. The Madang dive shops organise dives to Hansa Bay and other north-coast sites.
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WWII Dump
Towards the end of WWII the area was used as a staging post for US troops and vast numbers of GIs passed through. The war's abrupt end left millions of dollars worth of aircraft and equipment redundant, so the whole lot was bulldozed into a huge hole; ask at Dregerhafen High School, about 4km south of Gagidu Station, for directions.
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Wau Ecology Institute
There are several places around Wau and Bulolo of interest to walkers and nature lovers, particularly those with a thing for insects. The Wau Ecology Institute seems to be steadily running down, but its laboratory, library, museum, lecture theatre, large insect collection and accommodation are still operating.
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Karkar Volcano
The Karkar Volcano erupted violently in 1974 and again in 1979, killing two vulcanologists. It takes 12 hours return to climb the crater (1831m); bring plenty of sunscreen to combat the heat that bounces off the bare basalt and seek permission from the villagers as the crater has religious significance.
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Madang Museum
The local Madang museum is small but fascinating. Look for the ceremonial headdress from Bosmum village on the Lower Ramu River. These are worn during the 'cleansing of the blood', the time in which blood is drawn from a boy's tongue and penis as part of an initiation rite to manhood (ouch!).
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Manam Island
In 2004 the Manam Island volcano erupted displacing 6000 people who fled to the safety of the mainland. Only 2000 or so have returned. It is possible to visit the still-smoking island and explore the carnage. Anua Negu Lodge can arrange a speed boat to run you there and back.
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Mast Wreck
Near the Davit Wreck, in 10m of water, is the Mast Wreck, with its mast protruding from the water; there is a gun on the bow, ammunition on the deck and a field artillery piece in the hold. The Madang dive shops organise dives to Hansa Bay and other north-coast sites.
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Mt Lunaman
To the southeast of town Mt Lunaman or, more correctly, Lo' Wamung (First Hill), was used by the Germans and Japanese as a lookout point. The Japanese riddled it with caves and tunnels, though none of these are open today. Don't go here alone.
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Manubyai Cave
About 20km on from Malolo, there's a Catholic mission at Magiya. Beyond here is a road leading inland about 5km to Aronis. A kilometre from the main village is an aid post, near which is Manubyai Cave, home to a colony of horseshoe bats.
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black-sand beaches
The black-sand beaches along the coast are indicative of volcanic activity on Karkar and Manam Islands. There's good swimming, but watch the currents. The 1996 film production of Robinson Crusoe was filmed around here.
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Cemetery
On an overgrown grassy mound in the centre of town is the old Cemetery. Tombstones have fallen over and become illegible with time, but it's an interesting reminder of the German and Australian colonial days.
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Salemben
Salemben is a small village about a three-hour drive from Madang inland over rough roads from Malolo. At 900m above sea level, the area is home to many birds of paradise and a nice guesthouse.
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Smoked Bodies
The best place to view a smoked body is at Watama, a village within an easy walk of Menyamya. Ask at the Menyamya provincial authority, which will contact the relevant village elders.
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Unitech
About 8km out of town and located in some nicely landscaped parks and gardens. The Matheson Library is impressive, as are Duncanson Hall's 36 Sepik-style carved pillars.
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