Malolo to Hansa Bay & on to Watam

Introducing Malolo to Hansa Bay & on to Watam

The road continues north to the old Malolo (pronounced ‘mah-lollo’) plantation, 42km up the coast, site of the Malolo Plantation Lodge. The black-sand beaches along the coast are indicative of volcanic activity on Karkar and Manam Islands. There’s good swimming, but watch the currents. The 1996 film production of Robinson Crusoe was filmed around here.

About 20km on from Malolo, there’s a Catholic mission at Magiya. Beyond here is a road leading inland about 5km to Aronis. A kilometre from the main village is an aid post, near which is Manubyai Cave, home to a colony of horseshoe bats.

Salemben is a small village about a three-hour drive from Madang inland over rough roads from Malolo. At 900m above sea level, the area is home to many birds of paradise and a nice guesthouse.

Bogia is 185km northwest of Madang and the departure point for Manam Island. The road is sealed all the way to Bogia but peters out a short distance thereafter before the mighty Ramu River. At Bogia Bay, a Japanese Zero fighter lies upside down in the water a few hundred metres out from the jetty. Bogia town is a pretty place – the crystal-clear waters of the bay and the numerous traditional villages make it an ideal place to lose a few days.

In 2004 the Manam Island volcano erupted, displacing 6000 people who fled to the safety of the mainland. Only 2000 or so have returned. It is possible to visit the still-smoking island and explore the carnage. Anua Negu Lodge can arrange a speed boat (K400, one hour) to run you there and back.

Hansa Bay is a popular diving spot past Bogia, where the wreckage of 35 Japanese freighters and US aircraft lie in a shallow harbour. The upper deck of the 6000-ton Shishi Maru lies in just 6m of water, two anti-aircraft guns on the bow point upwards and brass shell castings litter the deck. Two fire engines are sitting in the hold, just before the bridge, where they were waiting to be unloaded.

Hansa Bay also has some spectacular wreck dives. A Japanese freighter has one davit projecting from the water (known as the Davit Wreck); it was sunk in 1943 by US bombers. You can swim through the wreck, which makes this an exciting dive in only 12m of water. Nearby, in 10m of water, is the Mast Wreck, with its mast protruding from the water; there is a gun on the bow, ammunition on the deck and a field artillery piece in the hold. The Madang dive shops organise dives to Hansa Bay and other north-coast sites. See p142.

There’s some marine-biology research happening on Laing Island in Hansa Bay, a beautiful island with white beaches and good snorkelling.

After Bogia is a series of old coconut plantations, now home to many Manam Island relocation camps. Villagers have cut patches into the plantations to grow their gardens. Eventually the road narrows to a single-lane track and abruptly ends at a small, deep tidal river. If you are not up for swimming, hail the villagers on the other side for a lift in their canoe.

To walk to the Ramu River mouth either follow the inland footpath through a swamp then onto the beach, or head for the beach directly. The Ramu is too large to swim, so wave and shout madly to the folks in the fishing camp on the western shore. If you are heading up the Ramu ask the men around here about boat departures otherwise continue walking along the coast (low tide only), through Marangis village, to Watam. Due to its strategic position, it is not surprising that Watam is one of the bigger villages in the area. Ask around for Felix Eddie who speaks excellent English and is knowledgeable on this area. From Watam, banana boats regularly leave for Angoram on the Sepik River.

Last updated: Jul 22, 2009