Things to do in North Solomons Province
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Sohano Island
You can also take a boat ride to explore the idyllic islands near the southern mouth of the passage and beyond. Good swimming spots are on these islands. The most easily accessible is Sohano Island, a few minutes by boat from Buka. It was the provincial capital from WWII until 1960. It's a beautiful place with lawns and gardens, a Japanese monument, and war relics, steep craggy cliffs and panoramic views over town, the passage and Bougainville Island. There are some colonial-period buildings.
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Buka passage
A particular highlight in Buka is the Buka passage, which refers to the channel that separates Buka Island from Bougainville Island. The water runs at about 6 knots when the tide is fast, making deep undulations on the water's surface. Riding in a banana boat in Buka Passage is a buzz. Banana boats congregate near the animated market and the passage is abuzz with these small crafts plying between the town and Kokopau village (opposite Buka on Bougainville Island).
A word of warning: avoid snorkelling in Buka Passage; you could wind up lost at sea because of the current, and the boat traffic on the surface is pretty intense.
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Arawa to Buin
The Arawa-Buin section (about three hours by vehicle) was still a bit tricky when we visited, due to the odd checkpoint controlled by so-called BRA diehards (locals prefer to call them raskols) south of Aropa. They sometimes turn foreigners back or ask them for whatever money they need. Don't panic: this 'checkpoint' is apparently very occasional, and by the time you read this, there should be no more checkpoints or roadblocks on the island. Monitor the news when you arrive in Buka.
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Admiral Yamamoto's aircraft wreck
Admiral Yamamoto's aircraft wreck is the area's most historically interesting wreck. Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, who planned the attack on Pearl Harbour, left Rabaul in a 'Betty Bomber' on 18 April 1943 with a protective group of Zeros, not realising that US fighters were waiting for him near Buin. The wreckage of the bomber still lies in the jungle a few kilometres off the Panguna-Buin road. It's signposted, near Aku, 24km before Buin.
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Loloho
Four kilometres northwest of Arawa is Loloho on Arawa Bay, the port to which the copper concentrate was piped down from Panguna, the site of the power station and home to many of the mine workers. There's a palpable feel of nostalgia in Arawa. The old buildings and the workers' quarters, still visible, testify to a prosperous past. Some people still conjure up this glorious past, 'when Arawa was the richest town in PNG'.
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Panguna
High in the centre of the island, the dormant mine of Panguna (still off-limits at the time of writing) is one of the world's largest artificial holes. Bougainville Copper Limited was the operator of the open-cut mine. Copper was discovered at Panguna in 1964. There are talks of reopening that mine once the situation in Bougainville is fully stabilised. Stay tuned.
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Buin
About 260km south of Buka, Buin really feels the end of the line. It suffered less damage than Kieta and Arawa during the conflict. During WWII, Buin hosted a large Japanese army base and the area has many rusting relics. The Japanese had plans to resettle a huge number of civilian Japanese at an area called Little Tokyo.
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Mt Balbi
A good base, Wakunai is where you can arrange a three-day trek to Mt Balbi (2685m), or follow the Nooma Nooma track that crosses the island to Torokina, on the west coast (count on a three-day minimum). From Mt Balbi, you can see the active Mt Bagana (1730m). In Wakunai, your best source of information is Suzie Akoitai.
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Island Tours
Further south, Madehas Island, Christmas Island, White Island and Sal Island, blessed with lovely reefs and gorgeous beaches, are well worth the 20- to 30-minute boat ride from Buka. If you want to snorkel, seek permission first from the locals. Island Tours can be arranged with Kuri Village Resort.
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Morgan Junction
Continuing further south from Wakunai, you'll drive past the infamous Morgan Junction, where you can catch a glimpse of the roadblock that blocks access to the 'no-go zone' and Panguna (still off-limits at the time of writing).
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Arawa
About 10km south of Morgan Junction, you'll reach Arawa and Kieta, which are virtually contiguous. Both were severely damaged during the conflict in the 1990s. Whole neighbourhoods have been abandoned.
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Tchibo Rock
The weird Tchibo Rock stands just offshore from Sohano's northernmost point and figures in many local legends. It's said to have magical properties.
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Kangu Beach
From Buin it's a skip and a hop to Kangu Beach, the obvious launching pad to the Shortlands in the Solomon Islands.
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Destiny Fast Food
If you're looking for a quick bite, this popular institution dishes up a variety of well-prepared stews.
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