Things to do in New Britain
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PNG Diabetic Centre
Laugh all your want, but PNG Diabetic Centre is a treasure trove for artefact-hunters, with masks, necklaces, shells, carvings and other souvenirs aplenty. It's run by Paul Schwartz, who also works as a 'diabetes counciller', policeman and, should you need to boost your morale, a psychotherapist.
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Kabaira Dive Rabaul
It's almost too good to be true: Simpson Harbour offers several first-class wreck dives, while the reefs off the western tip of Gazelle Peninsula are totally unspoiled and positively festooned with healthy, hard and soft corals, sponges, gorgonians and a dizzying array of tropical fish: a perfect combination. Run by the capable Stephen Woolcott, Kabaira Dive Rabaul is based at Kabaira Beach Hideaway, a few finstrokes from splendid reefs.
The main drawback is the location; if you're based in Rabaul, you'll have to fork out about A$40 for transfers, or take a PMV (40 minutes). If you're a keen diver, it's best to base yourself at the Kabaira Beach Hideaway. Good snorkelling…
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Mioko Island
Mioko Island is the best one to visit, with a smattering of sights, including good beaches, two open-pit caves on the island's eastern flank and a coastwatcher's lookout cut into the cliff top nearby on the easternmost point. For many years hundreds of people hid in these caves to avoid being press-ganged by the Japanese.
Nearby, a tiny tunnel runs between the two cliff faces of the island's eastern tip. You can crawl between (it's rough going) for two views of the open sea and sky, and the cruel cliff below you. If you want to snorkel, try the southern coast, but it's only good in calm conditions.
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Baia Sportfishing Lodge
Sportfishing enthusiasts will make a beeline for Baia Sportfishing Lodge, a reputable, high-standard fishing lodge in remote Baia that attracts Ernest Hemingway fans. It's run by Liamo Reef Resort in Kimbe. The numerous river systems are home to the infamous black bass and spot tail bass, and the neighbouring coral reefs are a playpen for reef and pelagic species, including tuna, wahoo, giant trevally, marlin and sailfish among the prime catches.
There's a minimum stay of four nights. Prices include fishing gear, boat and guide, as well as transfers to Hoskins airport (about 4½ hours by boat).
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Haus Win
Top marks for this oasis which is part of Kokopo Beach Hotel. High-quality Chinese and Western cooking, a good selection of Australian tipples and a switched-on ambience ensure plenty of regular customers among the expat community and local glitterati. There are many highlights, including a copious chow mein, prawn cutlets, Chinese omelette and a few vegetarian options.
One downside: most desserts on the menu, including a tempting sago pudding, were not available the day we ate there - so frustrating.The dining area, designed with local materials, proffers lovely views over the bay.
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Phoenix Room
When it comes to Asian cooking, chef Solis knows his stuff. Chinese specialities are served with absolute proficiency - the fluffiest foo yongs (omelette) in PNG, guaranteed! The sweet-and-sour pork is another hot favourite. Western dishes, such as pork chops or beef stroganoff, also feature on the menu. There are a good choice of vegetarian options too; rare in PNG.
If the service is longish, you can always gaze at some risqué oriental paintings on the walls or at the huge tabu (sacred) wheel hanging from the ceilings.
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Kokopo Market
The buzzing Kokopo market is well worth a stroll. It's best on Saturdays. Buai (betel nut) and its condiments, daka (mustard stick) and cumbung (mineral lime, which looks rather like cocaine in its little plastic wraps) account for half of the stalls, with produce, such as fruit, vegetables, smoked fish and crabs accounting for the remainder. At the rear, tobacco growers sell dried leaves; homemade cigars wrapped with sticky tape at the mouth-end sell for around K1 each.
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Kimbe
Kimbe is the provincial headquarters and a major centre for palm-oil production. Although it has a seafront, it's a fairly unassuming town with no real interest for travellers. But there's Kimbe Bay. Ah, Kimbe Bay. With its unique seamounts capped with coral towers reaching the surface, it has earned its celebrity status among divers and snorkellers around the world. The marine biodiversity here is stunning, with more than 350 types of hard coral and 860 species of fish vying for your attention.
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Talasea
Talasea is an active volcanic region set in a dramatic landscape. Lake Dakataua, at the tip, was formed in a colossal eruption in 1884. It's definitely worth seeing two WWII plane wrecks that lie partially disintegrated in the jungle near Talasea. There's a Mitchell B-25 Bomber and a Lockheed Vega Ventura - an impressive sight. As public transport is virtually non-existent, your best bet to visit Talasea and the Willaumez Peninsula is to arrange a tour through the Walindi Plantation Resort.
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Steak House
Carnivores, rejoice: this well-regarded eatery located at Queen Emma Lodge brims with deliciously prepared rump, eye fillet, T-Bone and sirloin steaks. If you've had your fill of animal proteins, pizzas are also available. Lunch is easier on the wallet (and on the stomach), when fish and chips, and sandwiches are on offer. The décor, enlivened with wooden floor and artefacts, creates a mildly exotic atmosphere that encourages a long, relaxed dinner.
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Kokopo Waterfront
The best place to soak up the atmosphere is the Kokopo Waterfront, where banana boats (speed boats) pull up on the east end of the beach, and their drivers wait for a fare or they're fishing. These boats come and go from all over the province, the Duke of Yorks and New Ireland. The operators usually sleep through the midday heat under the big trees or gather in small groups, playing cards and string-band music on their salty ghetto blasters.
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East New Britain Historical & Cultural Centre
The rewarding East New Britain Historical & Cultural Centre has a tremendous collection of historical objects, photographs and many Japanese WWII relics. The Tok Pisin documents issued to Allied airmen are accompanied by translations instructing the reader to obey the white men who fell from the sky. Most poignant is the courageous role played by the locals in a war whose origins were completely alien to them.
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New Guinea Club & Rabaul Museum
Just next door to Admiral Yamamoto's Bunker is New Guinea Club & Rabaul Museum. Established in 1933, this club was a businessmen's club with strict guidelines for membership. It was destroyed in WWII and rebuilt in the 1950s to its former glory only to be destroyed again by fire in 1994. It has been partly restored and is now home to a small museum. Ask at the Rabaul Hotel for the key.
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Queen Emma's House
Head to the site of Queen Emma's house, located right where the road terminates at the Ralum Country Club. Emma Forsayth, from Samoa, started a trading business at Mioko in the Duke of York Islands in 1878 before extending her empire to include plantations, trade stores and ships. Don't hold your breath; there's not much to see of Gunantambu, her grand home, which was ruined in WWII.
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San Remo Club
We love this place - it feels so anachronistic. It's the most 'happening' spot in town, not far from Liam Reef Resort. Chat with old expats who are almost a fixture here, catch the breeze from the terrace, sip a cold beer while gazing on smouldering Mt Garbuna in the distance, or enjoy a well-prepared chicken schnitzel.
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Kadat Nite Club
Night owls swoop on Kokopo's only real nightclub on weekends, with people dancing, or swaying, to a mix of reggae, sexy island sounds and international hits. Male travellers, take note: ladies' night is on Thursday. It's certainly not glamorous, but a good spot to rub shoulders (and everything else) with locals.
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Chopsticks Restaurant
This place just defies logic. We still can't figure out why it has the same menu (and same prices) as the stylish Haus Win (same management). The décor is far more appealing at the Haus Win and transfers are free, so there's no point eating here. Please change the marketing director!
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Ralum Country Club
Come here to soak up the atmosphere with a chilled beer in hand. The golf clubhouse has a bar, darts and snooker. If you want to enjoy a slice of island life, don't miss the weekly Joker Draw on Friday evening. The veranda offers stupendous views of the golf course and the sea.
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Le Riche Colours
It's worth stopping at Le Riche Colours if you're after some original souvenirs. Artist Nathalie Le Riche has very colourful hand-painted T-shirts, tribal stickers, gifts cards, placemats and other gifts that feature tribal portraits, market scenes and underwater compositions.
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Chinese Restaurant
Not really a place to lift your spirits. The building is depressing, the dining room is oppressing (think bare, peeling walls and neon lighting) and the Chinese specialities are just average, judging by the braised chicken. But it's the only independent restaurant in town.
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dive centre
Apart from the superb natural surroundings and rare birds, the main attraction here is the unsurpassable diving in Kimbe Bay. You might see anything from a tiny glass shrimp, to a pod of killer whales. The Walindi Plantation Resort has a very professional dive centre.
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Andersons Foodland
This supermarket is on the pricey side, but well stocked, including a wide selection of Australian imports. It also houses a neat kai bar just past the entrance, which rustles up tasty toasted sandwiches and stews. Good ice-creams too.
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Admiral Yamamoto's Bunker
There are countless tunnels and caverns in the hillsides around Rabaul. Admiral Yamamoto's Bunker (locked) is interesting although austere, and the placards near it are informative. There's a map on the ceiling for plotting world domination.
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Hoskins
The picturesquely located 'major' airport of WNB is 40km east of Kimbe. There are a number of forested volcanoes surrounding town, including the active Mt Pago. Located a short distance inland, at Koimumu, there's an active geyser field.
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Queen Emma Restaurant
Don't let the swinging '70s frilly curtains and neon lighting bring you down. This good honest restaurant serves good honest meals. If you need to assuage carnivorous cravings, try the well-presented and tasty black pepper steak.
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