Getting there & away
Banana boats tie up on the beach near the post office and can be hired for trips to New Ireland via the Duke of York Islands (K50, two hours). You can charter a banana boat just about anywhere (K100 plus petrol).
The KokopoRabaul area is serviced by Tokua airport, 10km east of Kokopo. Look out for the three murals of (from left to right) Tolai, Pomio and Baining dancers as you get off the plane. Air Niugini (Kokopo 982 9033; Tokua Airport 983 9325) has one to two daily flights to Port Moresby (K673, two hours) and flights to Hoskins (K330, 35 minutes, once daily). There are also flights to Kavieng (K335, 40 minutes, three weekly) and to Buka (K390, 45 minutes, four weekly).
Airlink used to fly to Kavieng via Lihir, and to Pomio and to Hoskins, but the airline was out of the picture at the time of writing. Check it out while you’re there – another airline might have re-opened these routes.