Things to do in Kokopo
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A
Haus Win
Top marks for this oasis which is part of Kokopo Beach Hotel. High-quality Chinese and Western cooking, a good selection of Australian tipples and a switched-on ambience ensure plenty of regular customers among the expat community and local glitterati. There are many highlights, including a copious chow mein, prawn cutlets, Chinese omelette and a few vegetarian options.
One downside: most desserts on the menu, including a tempting sago pudding, were not available the day we ate there - so frustrating.The dining area, designed with local materials, proffers lovely views over the bay.
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B
Kokopo Market
The buzzing Kokopo market is well worth a stroll. It's best on Saturdays. Buai (betel nut) and its condiments, daka (mustard stick) and cumbung (mineral lime, which looks rather like cocaine in its little plastic wraps) account for half of the stalls, with produce, such as fruit, vegetables, smoked fish and crabs accounting for the remainder. At the rear, tobacco growers sell dried leaves; homemade cigars wrapped with sticky tape at the mouth-end sell for around K1 each.
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Steak House
Carnivores, rejoice: this well-regarded eatery located at Queen Emma Lodge brims with deliciously prepared rump, eye fillet, T-Bone and sirloin steaks. If you've had your fill of animal proteins, pizzas are also available. Lunch is easier on the wallet (and on the stomach), when fish and chips, and sandwiches are on offer. The décor, enlivened with wooden floor and artefacts, creates a mildly exotic atmosphere that encourages a long, relaxed dinner.
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C
Kokopo Waterfront
The best place to soak up the atmosphere is the Kokopo Waterfront, where banana boats (speed boats) pull up on the east end of the beach, and their drivers wait for a fare or they're fishing. These boats come and go from all over the province, the Duke of Yorks and New Ireland. The operators usually sleep through the midday heat under the big trees or gather in small groups, playing cards and string-band music on their salty ghetto blasters.
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D
East New Britain Historical & Cultural Centre
The rewarding East New Britain Historical & Cultural Centre has a tremendous collection of historical objects, photographs and many Japanese WWII relics. The Tok Pisin documents issued to Allied airmen are accompanied by translations instructing the reader to obey the white men who fell from the sky. Most poignant is the courageous role played by the locals in a war whose origins were completely alien to them.
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E
Queen Emma's House
Head to the site of Queen Emma's house, located right where the road terminates at the Ralum Country Club. Emma Forsayth, from Samoa, started a trading business at Mioko in the Duke of York Islands in 1878 before extending her empire to include plantations, trade stores and ships. Don't hold your breath; there's not much to see of Gunantambu, her grand home, which was ruined in WWII.
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F
Kadat Nite Club
Night owls swoop on Kokopo's only real nightclub on weekends, with people dancing, or swaying, to a mix of reggae, sexy island sounds and international hits. Male travellers, take note: ladies' night is on Thursday. It's certainly not glamorous, but a good spot to rub shoulders (and everything else) with locals.
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G
Chopsticks Restaurant
This place just defies logic. We still can't figure out why it has the same menu (and same prices) as the stylish Haus Win (same management). The décor is far more appealing at the Haus Win and transfers are free, so there's no point eating here. Please change the marketing director!
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H
Ralum Country Club
Come here to soak up the atmosphere with a chilled beer in hand. The golf clubhouse has a bar, darts and snooker. If you want to enjoy a slice of island life, don't miss the weekly Joker Draw on Friday evening. The veranda offers stupendous views of the golf course and the sea.
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I
Andersons Foodland
This supermarket is on the pricey side, but well stocked, including a wide selection of Australian imports. It also houses a neat kai bar just past the entrance, which rustles up tasty toasted sandwiches and stews. Good ice-creams too.
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Rapopo Dive
Fancy diving? Rapopo Dive, based at Rapopo Plantation Resort, offers a range of day trips Equipment rental is K175. It's an excellent centre that has professional staff.
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J
Supa Bake Kai Bar
Fill your grumbling tummy without battering the wallet in this buzzing joint. It has a wide array of chicken and beef dishes, as well as burgers and sandwiches.
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