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Getting there & around

Be prepared to be stranded in Tabubil. The planes can’t land when the cloud and rain obscure the runway – this is most days. Many locals prefer to fly from Kiunga; the weather is better there, the valley broader and, subsequently, the flights more reliable.

Airlines PNG (548 9171; tbgres@apng.com; airport) flies daily (except Sunday) to Port Moresby (K941) and Mt Hagen (K630) and alternating days to Lae (K861) and Daru (K883). Air Niugini (548 3109/3077; sales.tabubil@airniugini.com.pg; town centre) operates under contract to Ok Tedi and most flights are not open to the public. It does, however, fly three times a week to Port Moresby (K949). MAF (548 9025; airport) flies to Vanimo (Wednesday, K600), Tari (Thursday, K440), Mt Hagen (once a week) and Telefomin (five times a week, K150).

The road to Kiunga is serviced by PMVs (K20, three hours) that leave Tabubil at about 7am and again at 10am; the hotel can arrange for one to pick you up.