Things to do in Milne Bay Province
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Australian War Memorial
The recently commissioned Australian War Memorial has a detailed description of the Battle of Milne Bay. There's a service here on 26 August every year, commemorating the beginning of the Battle of Milne Bay.
In 1942, at 23:30 on 25 August the Japanese Imperial Army started invading Milne Bay. In just two landings a few days apart, the Japanese established a 2,400-strong army near Ahioma. Unlike Kokoda, the battle of Milne Bay was not to be a protracted affair; it would be over in just 12 days.
The Japanese fought skirmishes with the Allies and their base suffered early casualties under a fierce RAAF aircraft-led barrage. On the moonlit nights of 26-27 August the Japanese …
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Kwato Island
China Strait and the surrounding islands have a reputation for witchcraft and, despite the influence of missionaries, superstitions linger. Strange lights, ghost ships and sirens (the singing kind) all crop up. Just 3km west of Samarai, Kwato Island was once an educational centre and home to a thriving boat building industry. The remnants of the old machinery lie where they were discarded in the tall grass and today the island can be eerily quiet.
The Reverend Charles Abel and his wife, Beatrice, founded a non-hierarchical church in 1891. Even though they 'belted' the Bible pretty hard, it wasn't until the 1930s that the last of the nearby cannibal tribes was 'saved'.
If …
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Omarakana
Going north from Losuia is 'inland' to the locals. This area has most of the island's roads and villages. Omarakana, about halfway between Losuia and Kaibola, is where the island's paramount chief resides. You'll know you're there by the large, intricate, painted yam house and the couple of cars outside his western-style bungalow built on stilts.
He can often be found sitting on a chair under his house, surrounded by his clansmen. The paramount chief presides over the island's oral traditions and magic and strictly maintains his political and economic power. He also oversees the important yam festival and kula rituals. As a sign of respect, keep your head lower than his a…
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Manta Ray Cleaning Station
Not far west of Doini Island is Gona Bara Bara Island, and just off the northwest shore is a dive site known as the Manta Ray Cleaning Station. Just a few metres below the surface, there is an isolated bommie (a natural spire, covered in coral, rising from the sea floor). Around the bommie giant, graceful mantas (some with wing spans of up to 5m) are cleaned by tiny wrasses; it is one of the best places on earth to see this happening.
Snorkelling is also possible, though high winds make it (and diving) difficult between June and September. Unfortunately only dive charters are visiting here although it may be possible to arrange a snorkelling trip with local boat operators…
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diving
Even if you don't climb the hill, you simply must go snorkelling or diving around the rotting piers of the Samarai Island Wharf, which has become a world-famous muck-diving site. The marine life is incredible and as you drift carefully between the piers you'll be surrounded by schools of brightly coloured fish. Below them, pipefish and various odd nudibranchs can be seen.
The bottom is also littered with the detritus of history, but don't be tempted to 'rescue' anything more than the rubbish. Be sure to bring a snorkel and mask.
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Mt Lamanai
Fergusson is the largest island in the group and the highest peak is 2073m, with two other lower ranges from which the island's many rivers and streams flow. It is notable for its hot springs, bubbling mud pools, spouting geysers and extinct volcanoes. The hike from Warluma to the caldera of Mt Lamanai takes about 1½ hours and affords fantastic views over an immense crater. Take a local guide (ask around to arrange for one).
Particularly active thermal springs can be found at Deidei, opposite the main town of Salamo.
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Kalopa Cave
At Kaibola village, at the northern tip of Kiriwina, you can swim and snorkel at the picture-postcard beach, though much coral has died recently. About 1½ hours' walk from Kaibola is Kalopa Cave, near Matawa village. There are several deep limestone caves housing burial antiquities and skeletal remains. Stories are told of Dokanikani, a giant whose bones are said to be buried with those of his victims in one of the caves. PMVs run from Losuia to Kaibola, one hour, several times daily.
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Milne Bay Game Fishing Club
The well-organised Milne Bay Game Fishing Club can advise on boats and is happy to find some gear for you, particularly during one of the regular competitions or the annual Milne Bay Classic, which takes place on the first weekend of December.
For the sports fisherman, Milne Bay has a number of game fish worth trolling, jigging and casting for - giant marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dogtooth tuna, mackerel, barramundi and the Papuan black bass.
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Diving
Alotau has some incredible diving - along the north coast, within the bay and around the islands. Unfortunately there are no longer any diving operators based in Alotau itself. Until another tender starts up, the only way to see some of these incredible seascapes is to travel to Tawali Resort, 1½ hours up the coast. Day trips to Tawali Resort can be arranged through the Milne Bay Tourist Bureau.
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Alotau Harbour
The Alotau Harbour is the most colourful part of town and it's worth exploring. There are one-man canoes, brightly painted island boats, work tugs and passenger vessels. The busy harbour activity attests to it being the province's main cargo hub. For a bird's-eye view of the harbour, walk up the steps in town to the hospital, take the right fork and keep going for a couple of hundred metres.
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Driftwood fishing safaris
Operating from a newly built boutique hotel, Driftwood offers both saltwater and freshwater fishing safaris using quality Shimano equipment in a variety of boats at a range of prices.
For the sports fisherman, Milne Bay has a number of game fish worth trolling, jigging and casting for - giant marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dogtooth tuna, mackerel, barramundi and the Papuan black bass.
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Tawali Resort diving
Alotau has some incredible diving - along the north coast, within the bay and around the islands. Unfortunately there are no longer any diving operators based in Alotau itself. Until another tender starts up, the only way to see some of these incredible seascapes is to travel to Tawali Resort, 1½ hours up the coast. Day trips to Tawali Resort can be arranged through Napatana Lodge.
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snorkelling
Esa'ala, the district headquarters, is at the entrance to the spectacular Dobu Passage. It's a tiny place, with a couple of stores, a market and a trade store. A reef just offshore offers excellent snorkelling. Snorkelling around the tiny islands of Emanalo, Autoyou and Touwe is particularly rewarding because of the extremely high biodiversity found in these waters.
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Wawela
The road south of Losuia is dotted with villages but seldom sees motorised transport. Wawela is on a beautiful, curving sand beach edging a cool, deep, protected lagoon. On a falling tide, beware of the channel out to sea from the bay: the current can be very strong. To get here you'll need to rent a bike from Butia Lodge or charter a PMV for a few hours.
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Kaileuna Island
Of the islands off Kiriwina, Kaileuna Island is the easiest and cheapest to access as boats carrying buai (betel nut) travel from Losuia most days. The villages of Kaisiga, in the south, and Tawema to the north have beautiful white-sand beaches and predictably relaxed locals. Ask around the wharf to see if a boat is going.
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Yalaka village
Yalaka village sells striking lime pots that are small and easy to carry. These gourds are decorated with a distinctive black pattern that runs around the girth of the gourd and fitted with a boar's tusk stopper. Most pots are costed depending on size and quality, and a must for the discerning betel nut chewer.
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Vivigani
The most northwesterly of the group, Goodenough is one of the most steeply sided islands on earth, with Mt Oiautukekea reaching 2566m at the summit. There are fertile coastal plains flanking the mountain range and a road runs around the northeast coast through Vivigani, site of the major airstrip in the group.
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offshore islands
The offshore islands are worth visiting if you are lucky enough to find a boat full of people going that way. Labi Island is particularly nice for swimming as is the larger Kitava Island. If you wish to hire a boat ask around the wharf although as fuel prices are sky high it won't be cheap.
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Milne Bay Magic Tours
Offers a range of tours including a WWII tour of the Battle of Milne Bay and a creek bed filled with abandoned Japanese landing craft. There are also tours of local bat caves and trips to Samarai and Kwato Islands. Snorkelling gear can be rented here for around K10.
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Cameron Club
Located near the waterfront west of the centre is the local drinking hole. It's a large, cavernous space reminiscent of a rugby clubhouse. There are some large snooker tables in the corner and you can borrow racquets for the squash or tennis courts from the bar.
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Dive Milne Bay
Trobriand Islanders come to Alotau to sell their carvings and they'll find you around town. Dive Milne Bay has the town's best collection of Trobriand lime pots, walking sticks and bowls; all reasonably priced. There are small handicraft shops at the top hotels.
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Alotau Beaches
There are several good black-sand swimming beaches to the east of town towards Ahioma, although they're not obvious from the road. PMVs run past and it's dead easy to hitch a ride along this stretch of road, though obviously women should be more cautious.
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Cameron Secondary School
Cameron Secondary School welcomes visitors to its cultural village in the afternoon when students have finished their studies and are free to show guests around. Donations should be made to the school library and not to the students themselves.
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Education Milne Bay
Local and international groups contact these former school teachers to organise outdoor and cultural programmes. Generally such tours focus on environmental and community development utilising their impressive Wanigili centre.
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Bolubolu
Bolubolu is the main settlement, about 10km south of Vivigani. In the centre of the island there is a large stone, covered in mysterious black-and-white paintings, which is said to have power over the yam crops.
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