Sights in Milne Bay Province
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Australian War Memorial
The recently commissioned Australian War Memorial has a detailed description of the Battle of Milne Bay. There's a service here on 26 August every year, commemorating the beginning of the Battle of Milne Bay.
In 1942, at 23:30 on 25 August the Japanese Imperial Army started invading Milne Bay. In just two landings a few days apart, the Japanese established a 2,400-strong army near Ahioma. Unlike Kokoda, the battle of Milne Bay was not to be a protracted affair; it would be over in just 12 days.
The Japanese fought skirmishes with the Allies and their base suffered early casualties under a fierce RAAF aircraft-led barrage. On the moonlit nights of 26-27 August the Japanese …
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Kwato Island
China Strait and the surrounding islands have a reputation for witchcraft and, despite the influence of missionaries, superstitions linger. Strange lights, ghost ships and sirens (the singing kind) all crop up. Just 3km west of Samarai, Kwato Island was once an educational centre and home to a thriving boat building industry. The remnants of the old machinery lie where they were discarded in the tall grass and today the island can be eerily quiet.
The Reverend Charles Abel and his wife, Beatrice, founded a non-hierarchical church in 1891. Even though they 'belted' the Bible pretty hard, it wasn't until the 1930s that the last of the nearby cannibal tribes was 'saved'.
If …
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Omarakana
Going north from Losuia is 'inland' to the locals. This area has most of the island's roads and villages. Omarakana, about halfway between Losuia and Kaibola, is where the island's paramount chief resides. You'll know you're there by the large, intricate, painted yam house and the couple of cars outside his western-style bungalow built on stilts.
He can often be found sitting on a chair under his house, surrounded by his clansmen. The paramount chief presides over the island's oral traditions and magic and strictly maintains his political and economic power. He also oversees the important yam festival and kula rituals. As a sign of respect, keep your head lower than his a…
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Manta Ray Cleaning Station
Not far west of Doini Island is Gona Bara Bara Island, and just off the northwest shore is a dive site known as the Manta Ray Cleaning Station. Just a few metres below the surface, there is an isolated bommie (a natural spire, covered in coral, rising from the sea floor). Around the bommie giant, graceful mantas (some with wing spans of up to 5m) are cleaned by tiny wrasses; it is one of the best places on earth to see this happening.
Snorkelling is also possible, though high winds make it (and diving) difficult between June and September. Unfortunately only dive charters are visiting here although it may be possible to arrange a snorkelling trip with local boat operators…
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Mt Lamanai
Fergusson is the largest island in the group and the highest peak is 2073m, with two other lower ranges from which the island's many rivers and streams flow. It is notable for its hot springs, bubbling mud pools, spouting geysers and extinct volcanoes. The hike from Warluma to the caldera of Mt Lamanai takes about 1½ hours and affords fantastic views over an immense crater. Take a local guide (ask around to arrange for one).
Particularly active thermal springs can be found at Deidei, opposite the main town of Salamo.
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Kalopa Cave
At Kaibola village, at the northern tip of Kiriwina, you can swim and snorkel at the picture-postcard beach, though much coral has died recently. About 1½ hours' walk from Kaibola is Kalopa Cave, near Matawa village. There are several deep limestone caves housing burial antiquities and skeletal remains. Stories are told of Dokanikani, a giant whose bones are said to be buried with those of his victims in one of the caves. PMVs run from Losuia to Kaibola, one hour, several times daily.
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Alotau Harbour
The Alotau Harbour is the most colourful part of town and it's worth exploring. There are one-man canoes, brightly painted island boats, work tugs and passenger vessels. The busy harbour activity attests to it being the province's main cargo hub. For a bird's-eye view of the harbour, walk up the steps in town to the hospital, take the right fork and keep going for a couple of hundred metres.
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Wawela
The road south of Losuia is dotted with villages but seldom sees motorised transport. Wawela is on a beautiful, curving sand beach edging a cool, deep, protected lagoon. On a falling tide, beware of the channel out to sea from the bay: the current can be very strong. To get here you'll need to rent a bike from Butia Lodge or charter a PMV for a few hours.
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Kaileuna Island
Of the islands off Kiriwina, Kaileuna Island is the easiest and cheapest to access as boats carrying buai (betel nut) travel from Losuia most days. The villages of Kaisiga, in the south, and Tawema to the north have beautiful white-sand beaches and predictably relaxed locals. Ask around the wharf to see if a boat is going.
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Vivigani
The most northwesterly of the group, Goodenough is one of the most steeply sided islands on earth, with Mt Oiautukekea reaching 2566m at the summit. There are fertile coastal plains flanking the mountain range and a road runs around the northeast coast through Vivigani, site of the major airstrip in the group.
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offshore islands
The offshore islands are worth visiting if you are lucky enough to find a boat full of people going that way. Labi Island is particularly nice for swimming as is the larger Kitava Island. If you wish to hire a boat ask around the wharf although as fuel prices are sky high it won't be cheap.
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Alotau Beaches
There are several good black-sand swimming beaches to the east of town towards Ahioma, although they're not obvious from the road. PMVs run past and it's dead easy to hitch a ride along this stretch of road, though obviously women should be more cautious.
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Cameron Secondary School
Cameron Secondary School welcomes visitors to its cultural village in the afternoon when students have finished their studies and are free to show guests around. Donations should be made to the school library and not to the students themselves.
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Bolubolu
Bolubolu is the main settlement, about 10km south of Vivigani. In the centre of the island there is a large stone, covered in mysterious black-and-white paintings, which is said to have power over the yam crops.
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Buyeti display site
The beautiful Goldie's bird of paradise is endemic to the island and can be seen at the Buyeti display site, a three-hour walk from Sibanai, but you'll need a guide to show you where it's located.
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Sewa Bay
One of the most accessible and picturesque bays in the region is Sewa Bay a 45-minute boat ride from East Cape. During WWII the Allies based warships here among seven tiny islands in the harbour.
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Megaliths
Megaliths made of a coral composite have linked the Trobriands to possible early Polynesian migrations. You can see them, but not without a guide - speak with Bweka Village Resort or Butia Lodge.
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Doini Island
Doini Island is a privately owned and stunningly beautiful place about 10km southeast of Samarai, is where it's possible for overnight stays with Milne Bay Magic Tours.
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War relics
War relics, including the scattered remains of a couple of planes, can be seen near Butia Lodge; ask the gatekeeper to show you around.
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memorial to Christopher Robinson
The main thing to do on Samarai is just wander around soaking up the faded-glory. From the wharf, head toward the hill and, at the northeast corner of the sportsground, you'll pass the memorial to Christopher Robinson, the one-time administrator who committed suicide in 1904. The inscription notes he was 'as well meaning as he was unfortunate and as kindly as he was courageous' and that 'his aim was to make New Guinea a good place for white men.'
Near the southeast corner of the grounds, a road leads up to the abandoned hospital and, just north of here, a small hill with great views of the island and China Strait. Near the sportsground, and south of the wharf is Samarai's…
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