The Owen Stanley Range rises almost sheer as a cliff face behind the Oro Province village of Kokoda, where the northern end of the track terminates. It’s a sleepy place and the grassed area in the centre of town houses a small museum that has photos and descriptions of the campaign. Ask around to have it opened. Grace Eroro, who runs a small guesthouse, is a great source of information. Opposite the post office is a branch of the Kokoda Track Authority where trekking permits can be bought if you haven’t already done so in Port Moresby. Trekkers finishing the trail should also report here to be officially stamped off the trail.