Things to do in Portobelo
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Iglesia de San Félipe
Every October 21, pilgrims from all over Panama arrive in Portobelo to partake in the Festival de Cristo Negro (Black Christ Festival), which honors the 1.5m-high statue of the Black Christ housed in the Iglesia de San Félipe. The exact origins of the Black Christ statue are a matter of speculation, especially since all definitive church records were lost in the fire that followed Henry Morgan's sacking of Panamá in 1671.
However, there's no shortage of fanciful stories surrounding the origins of the statue.
One story has it that a ship bound for Cartagena, Colombia tried to leave Portobelo five times, but on each occasion a mighty storm blew the ship back to the town's …
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Real Aduana de Portobelo
The handsome, two-story Real Aduana de Portobelo was originally built in 1630 to serve as the contaduría (counting house) for the king's gold. It was in this building that the treasure brought across the isthmus was recorded and stored until it could be placed on galleons and sailed to Spain. According to early records, no less than 233 soldiers were garrisoned in this building alone.
The customs house consists of two main rooms, which are now used as permanent exhibition halls. One room displays dozens of purple velvet robes, which are placed on the statue of the Black Christ every October when thousands of devotees descend on Portobelo to worship the icon. Among the do…
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Twin Oceans Dive Center
Located inside the Coco Plum Eco Lodge, this professional outfit has over 20 years of diving experience in Panamanian waters. It's best to phone ahead or make a reservation via the internet.
It's not Belize or the Bay Islands, but if you're an avid scuba diver, you'll have a good time here. In addition to the famous sunken cargo ship and military plane, the waters around Portobelo are also home to soft coral-laden walls, off-shore reefs and rock gardens. The good news is that you'll probably see several pelagic animals including nurse sharks, black-tip reef sharks and eagle rays. The bad news is that you probably won't see them very well, especially if it has been rainin…
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Playa Blanca
A 20-minute boat ride from Portobelo will bring you to this lovely white-sand beach, which fronts a tranquil cove and is surrounded by dense wilderness. Since it is impossible to access the beach by car or bus, you'd be forgiven in thinking that Playa Blanca is an uninhabited island floating in the Caribbean. Any boat in Portobelo can bring you to the Playa Blanca, though it's possible to arrange for a pick-up if you make a reservation in advance.
Playa Blanca has some of the least disturbed reefs between Colón and the Archipiélago de San Blás and its sheltered waters have better visibility than in nearby Portobelo. There's a colorful reef in the center of the cove that's…
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Fuerte San Fernando
To defend his bullion and galleons from pirates, King Félipe II ordered forts to be constructed at Portobelo based on Italian engineer Juan Bautista Antonelli's recommendation. In 1601, Fuerte San Félipe and Fuerte San Diego were built near the mouth of the bay, but were subsequently destroyed by British Admiral Vernon in 1739.
In the years to follow, Fuerte San Fernando was built on top of these ruins, though sadly much of the fort was later taken down by American engineers, who used its walls to create the breakwater protecting the northern end of the Panama Canal. Still, it's a scenic spot worth visiting and boats can be hired from the water's edge to bring you acros…
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Fuerte Santiago
As you approach the town from the west, the first fort you'll see is Fuerte Santiago, which was built after an attack on the city by Admiral Edward Vernon (during which earlier forts were destroyed). Several of its walls are 3m thick and made entirely of cut coral. Known to the Spaniards as 'reef rock', coral was extensively used as a building material since it's tough as granite yet light as pumice and it can easily be shaped with a saw.
The ruins at Fuerte Santiago include officers' quarters, artillery sheds, a sentry box, barracks and several watchtowers.
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Mirador Perú
On a hill overlooking Santiago and much of the bay is a small but well-preserved watchtower called Mirador Perú, which was built after an attack on the city by British Admiral Edward Vernon (during which earlier forts were destroyed). There are steps carved into the hillside to reach the lookout and the views of the coastline from here are expansive. Unfortunately for the Spanish, however, the views weren't good enough to save their city from being repeatedly sacked by the English.
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SelvAventuras Hikes
On the main road into town, this adventure outfit is run by a group of charismatic locals eager to show visitors the wilder side of Portobelo. If you're looking to explore the surrounding Parque Nacional Portobelo, these guys can bring you to a number of impressive locales: Catarata de Rio Piedras, a towering 45m waterfall; Salto de Tigre, a tranquil waterfall-fed pond; and Río Iguanita, a rainforest-enshrouded swimming hole. You'll need some Spanish.
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Fuerte San Jerónimo
This was the largest fortress ever built to protect the bay. Facing the mouth of the bay are 18 cannon embrasures, some of which remain exactly where the Spanish troops left them when they returned home in 1821 - the year Panama declared its independence from Spain. Beyond the impressive gateway of San Jerónimo are the remains of the officers' quarters, barracks and a guardroom.
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V-Land Beach
Although it's one of Panama's least surfed provinces, there are a number of great breaks to be had in Colón. And of course, the lack of crowds means that you won't have to share your wave with anyone. This beach is near Devils Beach, in Sherman. Unbelievable right-point reef break with great tubes when big swell and glassy.
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Isla Mamei
Although it's one of Panama's least surfed provinces, there are a number of great breaks to be had in Colón. And of course, the lack of crowds means that you won't have to share your wave with anyone. This beach is next to Isla Grande, reached by boat or paddling from Isla Grande. Left-hand point break over shallow reef.
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Isla Grande
Although it's one of Panama's least surfed provinces, there are a number of great breaks to be had in Colón. And of course, the lack of crowds means that you won't have to share your wave with anyone. This beach is in front of La Guayra, best reached by water taxi. Reef bottom break with three peaks, rights and lefts.
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Turtles Beach
Although it's one of Panama's least surfed provinces, there are a number of great breaks to be had in Colón. And of course, the lack of crowds means that you won't have to share your wave with anyone. This beach is paddling distance from Playa Grande. Waves are great; unreal tubes, if it is glassy with a big swell.
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Playa Maria Chiquita
Although it's one of Panama's least surfed provinces, there are a number of great breaks to be had in Colón. And of course, the lack of crowds means that you won't have to share your wave with anyone. This beach is in front of Maria Chiquita. Beach break with lefts and rights, but limited to big swell.
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Playa Palenque/Cuango
Although it's one of Panama's least surfed provinces, there are a number of great breaks to be had in Colón. And of course, the lack of crowds means that you won't have to share your wave with anyone. This beach is in front of Cuango village. Beach break with rights and lefts. Surfers seldom seen here.
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Playa Grande Mainland
Although it's one of Panama's least surfed provinces, there are a number of great breaks to be had in Colón. And of course, the lack of crowds means that you won't have to share your wave with anyone. This beach is east of Isla Grande. Beach break with some reef. Waves break left and right.
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Jimmy's Caribbean Dive Resort
A dive operator located near the town of Nombre de Dios, east of Portobelo.
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