Things to do in Southern Punjab
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Mausoleum Of Sheikh Rukn-I-Alam
Lying just inside the main entrance to the fort, this masterpiece of Mughal architecture is the most significant and attractive of Multan's shrines. A pious and widely loved scholar, Rukn-ud-Din Abul Fatah (1251-1334), commonly known as Sheikh Rukn-i-Alam (Pillar of the World), became head of the Suhrawardiya Sufi branch introduced to the region by his father Baha-ud-Din Zakaria, and is regarded as the patron saint of Multan.
Built entirely of red brick and timber, the structure is not only beautiful but is skilfully executed, with a brilliant mastery of the squinch (a small arch across the corner of a tower masking the transition from square to dome). It is said that the…
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Qasim Bagh Fort
Multan's most prominent landmark, now largely in ruins except for its gate and part of the outer walls and bastions, is Qasim Bagh Fort, near Hussain Agahi and Chowk Bazaars. In the fort is the Qasim Bagh Stadium that occasionally hosts cricket matches.
Apart from the shrines, most of the fort was destroyed by the British in 1848-49 to avenge the death of Lieutenant Alexander vans Agnew, killed in Multan by order of the Sikh governor. Agnew's memorial obelisk stands on a plinth at one of the highest points of the fort mound. Qasim Bagh, the small garden after which the fort now takes its name, and the large Qasim Bagh Stadium lie to the south. Although you can still walk …
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Mausoleum of Baha-ud-Din Zakaria
Just near the Mausoleum of Sheikh Rukni-Alam, the Mausoleum of Baha-ud-Din Zakaria, father of Rukni-Alam, was built in 1263. A disciple of the Sufi mystic Hazrat Shahabuddin Umar Suhrawardy of Jerusalem, Baha-ud-Din (1182-1262) introduced the Suhrawardiya branch to the subcontinent and founded a university in Multan. His tomb was badly damaged in 1848 but was later restored.
The brick building has a square base and an octagonal second storey supporting a dome, and is decorated with blue tiles and Arabic inscriptions. Although the upper halves of this tomb and Rukn-i-Alam's mausoleum have similar designs from the outside, it's interesting to compare the top-heavy and funct…
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Bahawalpur Museum
Displaying items ranging from calligraphy to artefacts from Moenjodaro, Cholistan and Harappa, Bahawalpur Museum, less than 1km southeast of Farid Gate.
The museum is divided into a Pakistan Movement Gallery of photos; an Islamic Arts Gallery of arms, textiles, graphic arts and metalware; an Archaeological Gallery; a Coins & Medals Gallery with items minted by the former state of Bahawalpur; an Ethnological Gallery with handicrafts from Cholistan and Bahawalpur; a Fabrics Gallery with costumes from the region; and a Manuscripts & Calligraphy Gallery.
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Institute Of Blue Pottery Development
To see the production phases of blue pottery, a traditional craft that is a Multan speciality, visit the small but interesting Institute Of Blue Pottery Development. The lovely items made here are sold in Pakistan and beyond and can also be purchased at the institute's own showroom (prices range from Rs30 for a small vase to Rs7000 for a large one). For an informal tour meet the institute's project director, Mr Shuaib Khan.
An autorickshaw from the city centre is Rs100 (one way). The PTDC and TDCP can arrange tours to the institute (prices on application).
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Mausoleum Of Sultan Ali Akbar
This largely forgotten but impressive 16th century tomb lies in the Suraj Miani suburb to the north of the city centre. Akbar's mother has her own tomb nearby.
To get here take a passenger tonga from the north side of Kutchery Chowk to Suraj Miani in the northern outskirts and then walk 400m east and south, winding through the backstreets. You'll be able to see the huge octagonal building from the tonga. A qinji costs about Rs60 (Rs10 per person if there are six people) or it's Rs70 by autorickshaw.
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Bundu Khan
Next door to Zanzibar, although not as funky, this restaurant still gets the thumbs up. The waiters are obliging and there's pleasant alfresco dining (indoor seating is also available). The Pakistani cuisine is tasty but can be fiery, so request less chilli if your taste buds aren't up for the ride. Alternatively, opt for the Chinese or fast-food offerings, which include chicken honey wings and chicken cheeseburgers.
The 'kids club' will keep your little monsters occupied while you steal some quiet time.
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Eidgah Mosque
The large Eidgah Mosque, covering an area of some 73m by 16m, was built in 1735 and was later used by the Sikhs as a military garrison. In turn, the British used it as a courthouse (it was here that Agnew was slain) but it was restored to its original use in 1891 and today has some of the finest blue tilework in Multan. The mosque is about 1km north of Qasim Bagh Fort.
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Shangrilla
In the Cantonment area, just off Quaid-i-Azam Rd, Shangrilla is a relaxing place to chow down on Multan's finest Chinese cuisine. The menu includes golden oldies such as sweet'n'sour chicken and beef with lemon sauce.
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Central Library
Next door to the Bahawalpur Museum, this fine building houses a well-stocked Central Library. The foundation stone was laid by the then viceroy, Sir Rufus Daniel Isaacs, in 1924. The garden is very restful.
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Lasani Gardens
Whips up the usual mix of Chinese and Continental fare. Sweet tooths will savour the 'chocolate overload' ice cream (Rs60).
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Rohtas Fort
Some 16km northwest of Jhelum, colossal Rohtas Fort is an extraordinary example of military architecture. It was started in 1543 by the Pashtun ruler Sher Shah Suri, to protect the strategic Peshawar to Calcutta (now Kolkata) road from the Mughals and their allies. He never lived to see its completion and work was carried on by succeeding rulers. However, it was soon made redundant when Akbar moved his frontier to Attock and built a new fort there.
The vast fort is now in ruins except for the crenulated outer walls and most of its 12 gates and 68 bastions. The best-preserved remains are to the west; walk through the town to the western Sohal Gate to start your exploration…
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Harappa Site
Harappa Site comprises a citadel mound, defensive walls, a drainage system, a cemetery and a huge granary. However, in the past it has been plundered so much by local villagers for bricks to build their houses, and especially by the British for material for the Lahore to Multan railway line, that there is relatively little to see at the site itself. A path snakes around the compound with viewing platforms and a few signs with English descriptions. There is also a smalll but well-kept and interesting Harappa Museum. It exhibits items from the cemetery and other parts of the site, including etched carnelian beads, shell objects, stone tools, domestic implements, pottery, to…
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Shrine of Shams-ud-Din Sabzwari
On the dry bed of the Ravi River, less than 1km northeast of the fort, the Shrine of Shams-ud-Din Sabzwari, who is believed to have lived from 1165 to 1276, was founded by his grandson in 1330 and rebuilt by more distant descendants in about 1780.
One of the most enduring legends about the many miracles of Shams Tabrez is that he moved the sun closer to himself, hence making Multan the hot and dusty city it is today (shams means sun in Arabic). Whether or not the saint has been forgiven for this action, his tomb attracts vast numbers of devotees on his urs, held on 14-16 Rabusani.
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Shrines & Monuments
Only the most enthusiastic fan of Islamic architecture could fully appreciate all of Multan's shrines, tombs and mosques in a fleeting visit. Many are hidden in the old town; north of Pak Gate (Circular Rd) is Wali Muhammad Mosque (1758) and Phulhattan Mosque (1720), to the northwest is the beautifully tiled Tomb of Yusuf Gardezi and south of this is Tomb of Musa Pak Shahid. There are also several ruined Hindu temples in the area.
Routes can be torturous - hire a guide or try your luck by asking locals to keep pointing you in the right direction.
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Pakistan Handicrafts
The otherwise disappointing Pakistan Handicrafts sometimes has some standout handicrafts from Cholistan at affordable prices. Cholistani handicrafts include chungirs (bread plates made from date palm leaves), rillis (allpurpose cotton patchwork blankets), falasis (weavings of camel hair and cotton, used as carpets, wall hangings, etc), embroidered dupattas (long scarves), kurtas (long shirts with either short or no collars) and khalitis (ladies' embroidered purses).
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Zoo
Established in 1942, the Zoo would have to be one of the best kept in Pakistan. It houses more than 700 different animal species including leopard, lion, tiger, spotted deer, monkey, Siberian crane, golden pheasant, bear, python and crocodile. There's also a museum on-site with pinboards of dead butterflies, some dusty stuffed birds, a frightened-looking baby deer and more. Other attractions include a fish aquarium, gift shop and kiosk.
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Children's Park
Inside the main entrance, past the TDCP Motel and park office, is a Children's Park with a small zoo containing local wildlife such as imperial sandgrouse, partridge, pheasant, rhesus monkey, ciracal and civet cat, desert fox and a pair of rhinos. Animal species found wild in the park include boar, hare, jackal, mongoose, desert fox, porcupine, lark, owl, hawk and nilgai (antelope).
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Hussain Agahi & Chowk Bazaars
At the base of the fort mound is the sprawling bazaar and old town, connected to the rest of the town by seven medieval gates. The main markets are the Hussain Agahi & Chowk Bazaars, flanked by antique wooden merchant houses and echoing Multan's former importance as a trade centre. Sells, among other things, some good traditional handicrafts. Bargain hard.
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Zanzibar
Hip and happening, Zanzibar has attentive staff, a chic interior and a swanky circular bar (all that's missing is the alcohol!). The ambitious menu here sports everything from seafood chowder, to hot dogs, to Mexican chicken fajitas. Zanzibar's dessert list even includes an Australian-inspired 'summer pavlova'.
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Zanzibar 4 Seasons Restaurant
With an attractive interior and good food, this is Bahawalpur's finest restaurant. There are Pakistani, Continental, Chinese and even a few Mexican dishes. Recommendations include the roast beef burgers, jumbo garlic prawn and honey pepper chicken. If your tummy is twisting, try a cup of soothing green tea.
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Panda Chinese Restaurant
Comfortably appointed, this is the place to come for familiar wok-tossed favourites such as Szechwan beef. However, like most Chinese restaurants on the subcontinent, the food here is more spice-infused than usual, catering to local tastes.
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Dubai Palace
Off limits to the public, Dubai Palace belongs to the Amir of Dubai, who sometimes uses it as his base for winter falconry sorties into Cholistan. Rumour has it that the amir has thrown lavish parties here for 500 guests at one time.
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Shangrilla Gardens & Barbecue Restaurant
You can opt for standard Pakistani or Continental food here, eaten indoors or out in the garden. The jug of lassi (yogurt and iced-water beverage) is sure to quench the most savage summer thirst.
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