Things to do in Swat District
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Butkara No 1
Butkara No 1 is also called Butkara, or the local name of Gulkada (gool-ka-da). This site has yielded one of Swat's richest harvests of artefacts, all now in museums. The enormous central stupa was probably begun by Ashoka in the 3rd century BC; by the 10th century it had been rebuilt five times, each new version enclosing the last.
Surrounding it were over 200 little stupas built by wealthy pilgrims. To get here, find the first road just north of the Swat Museum, off Saidu Sharif Rd, and walk east along it for 900m. Then walk 250m north on a footpath across fields to a boundary fence in a grove of trees.
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Swat Museum
Partly funded by the Japanese, the excellent Swat Museum in Saidu Sharif should be on anyone's itinerary if they have an interest in Buddhist Swat. Gandharan-style statuettes and friezes depict the lives of the Buddha along with seals, tiny reliquaries and other treasures, mostly from Butkara No 1 and Udegram. In other rooms are pre-Buddhist artefacts, and an ethnographic gallery with traditional carved Swati furniture, jewellery and some wonderful embroideries.
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Jambil Valley Archaeological Sites
At Panr (pronounced 'pahn') on the other (east) side of Jambil Khwar are a stupa and monastery from the 1st to 5th centuries AD. You'll find a path and bridge about 1.5km beyond Butkara No 3, or you can head 3km out along Haji Baba Rd from Mingora Bazaar. Further out at Loebanr, on the west side, are an Aryan graveyard from the 2nd to 1st millennia BC and a 3rd to 4th century AD stupa.
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Butkara No 3
Further along the Jambil Valley is Butkara No 3, a partly reconstructed courtyard of enclosed stupas. To get here, continue 500m past the turn-off to Butkara No 1 until you reach a culvert. Then climb five minutes up a gully to the right. It can be difficult to find, but there's a village on the way and someone from there can probably show you.
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Pashtun Eateries
For quick eats, there are dozens of Pashtun eateries along GT Rd, particularly near the bus station and around Nishat Chowk. Fill up on chicken, kebabs, curries and dhal for a few rupees, washed down with juice from a nearby drinks stand. Seasonal fruit vendors are everywhere, especially trying to out-shout one another at Green Chowk.
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Suvastu Restaurant
This excellent restaurant is the place for a splurge. Sharply dressed waiters lay out meals on crisp linen, offering a wide selection of Chinese, Continental and Pakistani dishes. The evening poolside barbeque buffet Rs500 makes an excellent al fresco alternative.
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Swat Garden Restaurant
On the ground floor of the Swat Continental Hotel. Come here to eat well in nice surroundings without breaking the bank. The Pakistani dishes are the best, as some of the Continental dishes get interpreted with eccentric flexibility.
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Suvastu Gallery
This large emporium has a good range of handicrafts, carpets and jewellery. This isn't really a place for bargains; however, much of the stock is of high quality. Cheaper shopping options exist near the corners of GT Rd and New Rd.
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Punjabi Saltish Restaurant
A clean, popular, and inexpensive restaurant just off the GT Rd. It serves the usual Pakistani fare and occasional Western fast-food items in bright surroundings.
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Saidu Baba
This is the honorific nickname of the colourful shrine to the Akhund of Swat, behind the Saidu Sharif police station and near the old Wali's residence.
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Kabul Afghan Restaurant
Kabul Afghan Restaurant near the Zarin Palace is typical of the non-hotel restaurants, offering tikka, kebabs and pilau in simple surroundings.
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Saidu Stupa
The remains of the impressive Saidu Stupa and monastery are just up a track from the paved road behind Central Hospital.
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