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Introducing Garam Chashma

This village in a largely Ismaili area two hours northwest of Chitral is named for its hot (and slightly sulphurous) spring. There are some lovely walks in the area, but as it butts up against the Afghan border the local police will expect you to register your presence on arrival. There’s also Chitral’s best-known trout reach on the Lutkho River heading into Garam Chashma. Licences are available from the fisheries warden on the outskirts of the village.

Garam Chasma works best as a day trip. The very basic Hotel Innjigaan (s/d Rs 80/120), east of the bazaar, has a big pool full of hot spring water to soothe your bones. Voyeurs are screened out so women in bathing costumes should feel quite safe. There’s also a simple restaurant, but bring candles. A tiny C&W resthouse can be booked through the assistant engineer in Chitral town, and there are a few Afghan inns in the bazaar serving meat and rice.