Kara Kul

Introducing Kara Kul

This is one of the most beautiful places in western China, the deep blue waters (kara kul is Uyghur for black lake) nestled between two Pamir giants, Muztagh Ata to the south and 7719m Mt Kongur to the northeast. Many travellers come to Kashgar hoping to rub shoulders with Kyrgyz nomads in the pastures around Kara Kul (Chinese: Kalakuli Hu).

There are several Kyrgyz summer villages in the area; the nearest, just south of the lake, is Subash. You can walk around the lake in half a day; the downstream outflow can be forded at the village nearby. At Subash or elsewhere you can arrange an excursion by horse to jailuu (high pastures), about three hours from the lake at the foot of Muztagh Ata.

With a tent you could spend days at the lake or on the flanks of Muztagh Ata. To walk up to Muztagh Ata base camp, it’s easiest to head south on the Highway for about 14km, then east for 2km to Edara village. From here it’s a climb of about 15km to the base camp, at 4550m. Be prepared for the worst kind of weather, no matter what it looks like when you start.

The lake is at 3700m and the nights are below freezing even in the summer. Be aware also of summer sandstorms, which can rise in a minute. Between late October and early May the place may be deserted.

A large wind turbine interrupts the otherwise wonderfully desolate view and heralds the presence of the Karakol Lake Resort. Even if you are not staying at the Karakol Lake Resort – a tourist trap – you can be stung Y50 just for entering the resort grounds (ie the car park). At either of the accommodation options at the lake you will be surrounded by Kyrgyz trying to sell you everything from stones to a bed in their yurt. Horse and camel rides start at Y30 per half-hour but are highly negotiable.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009