Things to do in Indus Kohistan
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Choar
Choar is a vast alpine meadow area, as big as Alai itself, a long day's walk (one way) up either the Rupkanai or Nogram Khwars. It's accessible only from May to August, when herds are driven up to it. You can camp there, even trek across to the Kaghan Valley, but a local guide is essential - talk to locals.
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Petroglyphs
Check out the Petroglyphs near the Indus bridge (to Darel). They include a detailed Buddhist tableau and many inscriptions and travellers' names, pecked into the rocks from the 1st century AD onwards. (There is more of this extraordinary ancient graffiti along the road from here to Chilas.)
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Kohistan Tourist Inn
The hotel restaurant has a small vegetarian and Continental (chicken gruel!) selection along with the typical curries and Chinese favourites.
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Hotel Paris
Budget hotel restaurant churning out Pakistani basics like sabzi (curried vegetables), dhal and mutton curry.
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