The Tafjord Power Museum, located within a now-defunct power station, shows how the advent of hydroelectric power changed the valley. The road that climbs from the village up to the Zakarias reservoir passes through a bizarre corkscrew tunnel and, a couple of kilometres higher up, a short walking route drops to the crumbling bridge at the dam’s narrow base, where you feel at close range the stresses this 96m-high structure has to tolerate.