It's a stunning drive to the remote fishing village of Gjesvær, 34km northwest of Honningsvåg and 21km off the Honningsvåg–Nordkapp road, where you'll find two excellent birdwatching outfits. Rolling tundra, punctuated by dark pools and cropped by reindeer, gives way to a stark, rocky landscape, and then a sudden view of low skerries and the Gjesværstappan islands.
A short detour from the E69 between Honningsvåg and Nordkapp brings you to this tiny, sheltered fishing hamlet, its pastel-shaded cottages and cabins encircling the small harbour. Arran has 44 rooms spread over three quayside buildings. The Sami family who run it bake their own bread and the menu is always the freshest of fish, hauled from the seas off Magerøya.
Yes, it's rip-off (more on that in a moment), but Nordkapp is a stunning, hauntingly beautiful place. Even after the novelty wears off, it's the view that thrills the most. In reasonable weather – which is a lot of the time – you can gaze down at the wild surf 307m below, watch the mists roll in and simply enjoy the moment.