From the small town of Olden at the eastern end of Nordfjord, a scenic road leads 23km up Oldedalen past Brenndalsbreen, and from there on to the twin glacial tongues of Melkevollbreen and Briksdalsbreen. More easily accessible, Briksdalsbreen attracts hordes of tour buses. It's a temperamental glacier; in 1997 the tongue licked to its furthest point for around 70 years, then retreated by around 500m. In 2005, the reaches where glacier walkers would clamber and stride cracked and splintered. So for the moment, there are no guided hikes on Briksdalsbreen, but she's a fickle creature and this may change.
It's about a 5km-return walk to the Briksdal glacier face, either up the steepish path or along the longer, gentler cart track. Alas, the traditional pony-carts that plied the route for over 100 years no longer transport visitors but Oldedalen Skyss has 'troll cars', vehicles like giant golfing carts (Nkr180 per person). From their turnaround point, there's still a 15-minute hike on a rough path to see the ice. To breathe up close in the glacier's face, take a guided trip in an inflatable dinghy. Dinghies (adult/child Nkr250/125), operated by Briksdal Adventure, depart approximately hourly in summer. We strongly recommend advance reservation for both troll cars and dinghies as places are often snapped up by tour groups.