Things to do in Southwestern Nicaragua
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El Timón
This excellent beach restaurant is the place to go for a more upmarket seafood dinner, with professional service and delicious seafood; the pulpo al vapor (steamed octopus with a tasty garlicky sauce) is highly recommended.
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Arena Caliente
Everyone loves this locally owned and operated shop, which rents boards and arranges inexpensive group transportation to the best breaks. It also offers budget surf packages where prices vary depending on your choice in lodging (or camping) and other options.
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Big Wave Dave's
The classic expat joint serves famously good breakfasts and wonderful comfort food - big burgers, bigger organic-leaf salads and more - all day.
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Pizzeria San Juan
Taste for yourself why they call this the best pizza in town, on the relaxed patio out back or phone in for delivery.
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Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor
Between July and December - peaking in August and September - some 30,000 female Olive Ridley turtles, and a few hundred very endangered leatherback turtles, visit Refugio de Vida Silvestre La Flor to nest. And you have to see turtles laying eggs on the beach, not to mention tiny baby turtles making their death-defying run for the water, at least once in your life. Several hotels, including Hotel Nina and Casa Oro Hostel, run night tours, including transportation. Bring insect repellent.
The reserve, south of San Juan del Sur along a shocking road, is managed by Fundación Cocibolca, who have been aided in their efforts by strong new pro-enviromental legislation, which off…
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Petroglyph
There's a spectacular Petroglyph not far from town; if you do Da Flying Frog canopy tour, ask to be taken by. Otherwise, walk toward Rivas, passing the Texaco station, and make a left after the bridge. Pass a school and then a gate on your right. Continue to the old farmhouse; if anyone's around, you should ask permission to cross the land.
Otherwise, follow the irrigation pipes to the river, where you'll find the stone, showing an enormous and elaborate hunting scene carved perhaps 1500 years ago. If you continue upstream, you'll come to a small waterfall.
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El Gato Negro
With what may be the best selection of English-language books in Nicaragua, you'll have plenty of excuses to linger over real espresso beverages and yummy pastries, sandwiches and other light meals in the comfortable dining room.
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Da Flying Frog
This canopy tour has 17 platforms and 2.5km of cables, making it one of the biggest zip-lines in the country. The horseback ride up includes a peek at one of the more impressive petroglyphs in the area.
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Marie's Bar
Marie's spices up the usual seafood platters with eclectic variations, and the cappuccinos and espressos here are tops. Save room for the tasty dessert crepes.
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El Colibrí
Serves scrumptious veggie options, organic treats, handmade bread and meatier Mediterranean fare in the beautiful gardens; there's sometimes live music.
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Playa Marsella
Playa Marsella is a spectacularly beautiful beach with good snorkeling and an adequate estuary break. Watch the currents here, and don't forget the sunscreen because there's very little shade. If you need to escape the sun's rays, you can always kick back with a cool drink at the upmarket resort complex.
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Mountain Bike Hire
Both Hospedaje Elizabeth and Hotel Colonial have Mountain Bike Hire, which are perfect for the dirt roads heading to the northern and southern beaches. You can take your bike on buses that run between SJDS and El Ostional, as well as the little river ferry at the northern end of the SJDS beach.
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Old Lighthouse Hike
Unfortunately, the popular Old Lighthouse Hike crosses land tied up in a property battle, which means you are currently forbidden to take the obvious trail that begins up at the fishing port, continuing uphill every time it forks, to the spectacular views all the way to Costa Rica.
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Ricardo's Bar
Ricardo's Bar, a beachfront expat institution with great gringo grub and a book exchange, is a fine place to kick back with a cold one and meet the neighbors. There are free movies on Monday and Thursday nights, DJs on Wednesday, and live music when it comes around.
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Cafetín El Faro
Run by the youth center, this is also the best bakery in town. Enjoy delicious fresh bread, cinnamon rolls, pizza and real coffee in the pleasant palapa (thatched-roof) dining area, or inside over a game of ping-pong.
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San Juan del Sur Diving School
This dive shop offers PADI certification courses, and trips into the bay and beyond, where you'll see lobsters, moray eels, dolphins, turtles and more. Owner Fidel López Briceño also arranges diving trips to Laguna de Apoyo.
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Maché Bar
Maché Bar is a late-night place, which gets packed for Tuesday's open mic; but show up anytime for a decent steak, cold brew and good conversation. This is where the city's other bartenders relax after their last call.
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Restaurant Buen Gusto
There are several charming, thatched-roof restaurants lining the beach, all with spectacular sunsets, full bars and solid seafood. One of the best is Restaurant Buen Gusto, where you'll want everything in the garlic sauce.
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Antennas Trail
Try the Antennas Trail: ask the driver of any Rivas-bound bus to let you off at 'Bocas de las Montañas'. Follow the dirt road through jungle and pasture up to the radio antennas, from where you have stunning views.
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Market
The best meals in town are served in SJDS's tidy Market, where four small eateries serve Nica standards and lots of options (fruit plates, granola, veggie dishes) designed to appeal to the backpacking set.
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Pizzeria-Ristorante 'O Sole Mio
Dripping with fine-dining ambience and serving up good wine, fresh pasta (gnocchi is a specialty) and, of course, pizza, this is a good spot to propose. It's open shorter hours in the low season.
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La Cascada Restaurant
This is the fanciest fine dining in town, atop Pelican Eyes' perch above the bay, where you can relax over aged USDA-quality steaks, lobster in garlic sauce or the enormous breakfast buffet.
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Otangani Disco
The original SJDS disco, the mirrored balls and colored lights start spinning at 21:00, but the in-crowd doesn't show up until at least 23:00, primed for an all-night party.
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Argonautica
There are lots of ways to see SJDS. You can go upscale on this 14.4m mahogany-trimmed yacht, or spend the night as part of your deluxe stay at Morgan's Rock in Playa Ocotal.
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Luis Vincent Lira Spanish School
This jovial independent instructor offers three-hour daily, totally customized lessons, complete with workbook, and can arrange homestays. Ask for him at Cyber Leo's.
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