Things to do in León & Northwestern Nicaragua
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Catedral de León
Construction of León's most famous building began in 1747 and went on for over a hundred years. The largest cathedral in Central America, it was voted by the Nicaraguan National Assembly as the country's 'building of the millennium'. This architectural jewel is also home to Rubén Darío's tomb, guarded on one side of the altar by a sorrowful lion.
According to local legend, the city's leaders feared their original grandiose design for the structure would be turned down by Spanish imperial authorities, so they submitted a more modest, but bogus, set of plans.
The fairly sober facade (more triumph-of-the-will Neoclassicism than fluttering cherubs) fronts an interior that …
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Central Market
The best place to eat on the cheap or buy fresh veggies is the beautiful, clean Central Market, with several inexpensive eateries serving comida corriente (a mixed plate of different foods typical of the region) made from whatever's fresh that day. After-hours, two of the best fritangas (sidewalk barbecues) in town set up right outside, on the corner closest to the cathedral.
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Parque Central
The recently refurbished Parque Central is a fine place for people-watching, purchasing a souvenir Sandino T-shirt and enjoying that most Leónese of treats, raspados. A small wooden cart opens to reveal a block of ice, which is shaved (with a rasp) into a cup, then topped with your choice of sticky fruit syrups.
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Mausoleum of Heroes & Martyrs
Another monument to the local heroes, the eternal flame of the Mausoleum of Heroes & Martyrs rests within a small plaza just north of the parque central, surrounded by the city's best murals.
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Museo de Leyendas Y Mitos
The Museum of Myths & Legends is unmissable. The contrast of its main subjects is striking: a quirky collection of life-size papier-mache figures from Leónese history and legend, handmade by founder Señora Toruña (also represented in glorious papier-mache), and murals graphically depicting methods used by the National Guard to torture prisoners.
The museum is located inside what used to be a prison during the Somoza regime. The prison was built in 1921 - hence its name, La XXI (the 21st Garrison). You'll be led from room to room, each dedicated to a different aspect of Leónese folklore, from La Gigantona - a giant woman representing an original colonist still ridiculed…
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Museo de Arte Fundación Ortiz-Guardián
Probably the finest contemporary art museum in Central America, the Ortiz-Guardián Collection has spilled over from its original home in Casa Don Norberto Ramiréz, refurbished in 2000 to its original Creole Civil style, with Arabic tiles and impressive flagstones. It and another beautiful old home across the street are now packed with artwork; a Spanish-speaking guide costs extra, and is well worth it.
Begin surrounded by the luxurious realism of the Renaissance and spare beauty of the colonial period, then wander through romanticism, modernism, postmodernism and actually modern pieces by Cuban, Peruvian and other Latin American schools. Rubens, Picasso, Chagall and oth…
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Museo-Archivo Rubén Darío
Of all the museums and monuments dedicated to the poet that are scattered across his doting homeland, Museo Rubén Darío seems like the one where you'd be most likely to run into his ghost. Exhibits are displayed throughout the house where he lived until he was a teenager, ranging from everyday items - more a window into well-to-do Nicaragua in the late 1800s - to handwritten manuscripts of Darío's famous works.
His Bible, the bed where he died 'an agonizing death' and the fancy duds he wore as the Ambassador to Spain (as well as for his most famous portrait) are just highlights among the historic bric-a-brac.
Another poet, Alfonso Cortés, also lived here during the 19…
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Fundación Ortiz-Gurdián
An artistic treasure-trove set in two attractive colonial buildings on opposite sides of the street, this gallery boasts an impressive collection indeed. From European masters (Chagall, Picasso) to a stunning assembly of Latin American art, including Pre-Columbian ceramics and contemporary Nicaraguan painting, it's simply unmissable.
Begin with the luxurious realism of the Renaissance and spare beauty of the colonial period, then wander through Romanticism, Modernism, Postmodernism and actually modern pieces by Cuban, Peruvian and other Latin American schools. The big names make an appearance, but it's the work by Latin American masters - Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, Fern…
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El Tamarindón
El Tamarindón is a huge tree where Adiáct, cacique (chief) of the Subtiava tribe during the Spanish conquest, was unceremoniously hung so his people would see him as weak. It didn't work, and today 'The Big Tamarindo' is a rallying point for indigenous locals, who placed a plaque there in 2003 that declares 'This tree was the cross of he who is our light,' and they sure as heck weren't talking about Jesus. There are a few benches underneath and a market every third Sunday in April.
It's a solid 20-minute walk or a taxi ride to Subtiava from the León cathedral, or you can take one of the covered trucks plying the streets. Catch a Subtiava-bound truck at the southwest cor…
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El Fortín
The National Guard's last holdout in León, El Fortín can be reached by the 2.5km dirt road that begins on the west side of Guadalupe cemetery, on the southern border of Barrio Subtiava. The large, squat gray building was originally constructed in 1889 to take advantage of great city views. It was abandoned until the 1950s, when the Somozas realized that they needed to keep an eye on León itself. They lost the fort on July 7, 1979, and the Sandinistas still have a parade every July to celebrate.
The fortress is next to a smelly garbage dump; you'll need to ask for permission to enter. Muggings are common on this stretch, so go in a group and leave your camera and other …
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Museo de Arte Sacro
Call ahead to make sure the intriguing Museo de Arte Sacro is open, as the curator and founder, Monsignor Ricardo Clemente Juárez Soza, sometimes needs to run errands during the day. You've probably noticed that this neighborhood's churches are in some disrepair, a situation that inspired Juárez to preserve the region's absolutely beautiful 16th- and 17th-century religious art right here, where it would be safe.
Faithfully detailed wooden saints - including one of the first Virgins of Guadalupe - to more ostentatious examples of baroque overkill, including lots of gold and silver artifacts, have been packed in the original Casa de Cultura Subtiava, built in 1544.
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Quetzaltrekkers
This outstanding operator offers recommended climbing tours of the area's volcanoes, including public transportation, big meals and camping. Try Volcán Momotombo, Volcán Telica, Volcán Cosigüina, and a two-day Cerro Negro tour that takes in El Hoyo and Laguna de Asososca. There's also a monthly full moon climb. There's usually a two- or three-person minimum, but solo travelers can check its offices or Vía Vía or www.viaviacafe.com to see what's coming up.
All profits go to Las Tias, a charity that helps problem kids learn to build their own lives; volunteers are very welcome.
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Iglesia de la Merced
Home to León's patron saint, La Virgen de La Merced, Iglesia de la Merced with it's less immediately enchanting gray edifice (albeit with a glittering and ornate interior) is considered the city's second-most important church. The image, originally from Barcelona, was brought to León's original church in 1528. After Volcán Momotombo erupted and forced the city's evacuation, the Leónese built a new church here in 1615, replaced with the current building in the early 1700s.
The virgin's feast day, September 24, is one of León's biggest religious bashes.
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San Juan Bautista Subtiava
About 1km west of the León cathedral, the neighborhood is centered on San Juan Bautista Subtiava, better known as 'Catedral Subtiava,' and the oldest intact church in the city. Built in the 1530s and reconstructed in 1710, its relatively plain beige facade and precious wood interior is largely unadorned; even the struts are there to stabilize the structure during earthquakes.
With two exceptions: spirals outside, and an extraordinary sun icon mounted to the typical arched timber roof, pay homage to deities far older than the Spanish conquest.
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Museo Entomológico
Still not open to the general public at press time, biologists Jean Michel Maes and Joan Tellez have big plans to display the largest collection of Nicaraguan insects in the world. In the meantime, you can visit the Museo Entomológico by appointment only, although you may have to root through stacks of bug trays to find your favorite insect.
The specialty is Lucanidae, a genus of beetles where males usually display ferocious-looking pincers, but there are also heaps of butterflies and other more charismatic critters to peruse.
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Museo Insurreccional Luís Manuel Toruño
The fine Museo Insurreccional Luís Manuel Toruño was recently relocated from León proper to this smaller Subtiava Sandinista stronghold, two blocks east and one and a half blocks south of San Juan Bautista. Also called El Buzón (Big Mailbox), this building was a secret weapons depot during the revolution. Curator 'El Chanclazo' has kept the faith and displays his enormous collection of revolutionary mementos, newspaper clippings, and communist memorabilia; if it's not open, ask around.
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Ruinas Iglesia Santiago
Some Subtiava churches haven't fared quite as well as others. Ruinas Iglesia Santiago, well signed one and a half blocks from San Juan Bautista, was (according to local legend) cursed by duendes (fairies), and by the looks of it the curse worked. Enter through the corrugated tin gate and ask the family there if it's OK to cross their front yard; they may ask for a few córdoba. The architecture is still obvious - and the bell tower still standing - and makes for an interesting wander.
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Iglesia de La Recolección
Three blocks north of the cathedral, the 1786 Iglesia de La Recolección is considered the city's most beautiful church, a Mexican-style baroque confection of swirling columns and bas-relief medallions that portray the life of Christ. Dyed a deep yellow accented with cream and age, the lavishly decorated facade may be what makes the cover of all the tourist brochures, but be sure to stop inside and admire the slender mahogany columns and ceiling decorated with harvest motifs.
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Galería de Héroes y Mártires
Monuments to León's more recent history include the Galería de Héroes y Mártires, run by mothers of FSLN veterans and fallen heroes. There's some signage in English and Spanish, but you're here to look into the eyes of more than 300 revolutionaries, mostly pimply faced teens with feathered disco haircuts, and wonder if you would be willing to make the ultimate sacrifice to free your country from dictatorship. A small craft shop supports the gallery.
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Teatro Municipal José de la Cruz Mena
Check the board in front of this attractive 1885 theater to see what's on during your visit. It's been impressively restored, and for around US$2 you may be able to catch anything from Salvadoran rock groups to art films to the national ballet on the very accessible stage. Hey, 14-year-old Rubén Darío did his first poetry here; who knows what sort of up-and-comers you'll catch. The board often lists other cultural events going on in the city.
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Museo Adiáct
Museo Adiáct is a beautifully (if faded) muraled building that also houses the neighborhood's government; you may need to ask them to open this interesting little museum. Funeral urns, ceramic tableware, stone statues and more are on display, with very little signage or attempt at a timeline. Old copies of La Voz de Adiáct magazine, with news and views about the history of Barrio Subtiava, are piled on shelves toward the front.
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Iglesia El Calvario
A hodgepodge of neoclassical and baroque styles, 18th-century El Calvario stands at the top of Calle Central. The interior is nice, with predictably gory, full-sized statues of Jesus and the thieves being crucified, but you're here for the brightly painted facade between the red-brick bell towers, with brightly colored bas-relief biblical scenes that resemble comic-strip panels.
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Iglesia Veracruz
A few blocks west of Ruinas Iglesia Santiago are the ruins of 16th-century Iglesia Veracruz, destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1835. It remains a spiritual center, and as the indigenous counterpoint to La Gritería. On December 7, people gather here for a pre-Columbian festival involving torches and the sun deity on the roof of San Juan Bautista.
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Sampson Expeditions
Headquartered at Hostel Calle de los Poetas, Rigo Sampson speaks fluent English and offers personalized and athletic tours of volcanoes and kayaking in Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado. He also offers oddball trips, including a three-week 'Footprints of William Walker' tour, and can also arrange visits to Las Minas and Bosawás.
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El Bus Pelón
Follow the thumping disco beat to find 'The Bald Bus,' its classic Bluebird styling enhanced by having the entire roof torched right off, all the better to share its impressive sound system with the people. Adult beverages are also available. You can catch it at the parque central, or as it runs around the city until the wee hours.
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