Ruin sights in León
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Some Subtiava churches haven't fared quite as well as others. Ruinas Iglesia Santiago, well signed one and a half blocks from San Juan Bautista, was (according to local legend) cursed by duendes (fairies), and by the looks of it the curse worked. Enter through the corrugated tin gate and ask the family there if it's OK to cross their front yard; they may ask for a few córdoba. The architecture is still obvious - and the bell tower still standing - and makes for an interesting wander.
A few blocks west of Ruinas Iglesia Santiago are the ruins of 16th-century Iglesia Veracruz, destroyed by a volcanic eruption in 1835. It remains a spiritual center, and as the indigenous counterpoint to La Gritería. On December 7, people gather here for a pre-Columbian festival involving torches and the sun deity on the roof of San Juan Bautista.