Museo de Leyendas Y Mitos

The Museum of Myths & Legends is unmissable. The contrast of its main subjects is striking: a quirky collection of life-size papier-mache figures from Leónese history and legend, handmade by founder Señora Toruña (also represented in glorious papier-mache), and murals graphically depicting methods used by the National Guard to torture prisoners.

The museum is located inside what used to be a prison during the Somoza regime. The prison was built in 1921 - hence its name, La XXI (the 21st Garrison). You'll be led from room to room, each dedicated to a different aspect of Leónese folklore, from La Gigantona - a giant woman representing an original colonist still ridiculed by a popular ballet folklorico to La Carreta Nagua (Chariot of Death), which picks up the souls of those foolish enough to cross intersections catercorner.

Between each folkloric rundown, your Spanish-speaking guide will cheerfully shift gears to describe the gory human-rights abuses (stretching on racks, beatings, water torture etc) that regularly took place here. It wasn't until June 13, 1979, when Commander Dora María Téllez successfully breached Somoza's defenses and secured La XXI for the Sandinistas, releasing all prisoners.