Things to do in Granada
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Las Isletas
One of the most enjoyable ways to pass the time is touring this miniature archipelago of 365 (OK, maybe fewer) tiny tropical islands, topped with rare birds, colorful flowers, mansions hung with hammocks, and a few hotels and restaurants where you're welcome to sit back and enjoy it all for a while. Catch a ride with a tour company or hire a boat yourself.
There's even a Spanish fortress, the 1784 Castillo San Pablo, with great views of Granada and Volcán Mombacho, plus a fine swimming hole nearby. The residents of Isla de los Monos (Monkey Island) are friendly, but may run off with your picnic lunch!
Formed 10,000 years ago when Volcán Mombacho exploded into its current …
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Convento y Museo San Francisco
The oldest church in Central America and the most striking building in Granada (that is to say, Nicaragua) boasts the big blue birthday cake facade of Iglesia San Francisco which, incidentally, houses the region's best museum.
The museum is through the small door on the left, where guides (some of whom speak English) are available for tours; tips are appreciated. Museum highlights include top-notch primitivist art, a scale model of the city and a tribe of papier-mâché Indians cooking, relaxing in hammocks and frolicking on comelazatoaztegams, a sort of a 360-degree see-saw.
The reason why you're here, however, is the Zapatera statuary, two solemn black basalt statues car…
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Centro Turístico
Enter through the mock Spanish fortress to a long stretch of lakefront with shady paths, sandy beaches, trees that seem designed for hammocks, restaurants, picnic areas and playgrounds, and free mangoes (if you can beat the parrots and street kids to 'em) all over the place, starting in late February. The Centro is also home to some happening nightspots.
Before splashing headfirst into the water with all the smiling families, you may like to take a good look at the river draining into the lake nearby and contemplate its contents...
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Mi Museo
This brand-new museum displays an incredible private collection of ceramics dating from at least 2000 BC to the present. Hundreds of beautifully crafted pieces were chosen with as much an eye for their artistic merit as their archaeological significance, and displayed in the grand old adobe with the same aesthetic awareness.
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Plaza de la Independencia
Head north of Parque Central to Plaza de la Independencia, also known as the 'Plaza de los Leones.' The obelisk is dedicated to the heroes of the 1821 struggle for independence, while the Cruz de Siglo was erected in 1900 to mark the new century.
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Cathedral de Granada
The Cathedral de Granada, on the east side of the plaza, was originally built in 1583 but has been destroyed countless times since. This most recent version, built in 1915, has four chapels; a dozen stained-glass panels are set into the dome.
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Cementerio de Granada
Used between 1876 and 1922, some of Granada's wealthiest decades, this beautiful cemetery has lots of picturesque mausoleums and tombs, including those of six Nicaraguan presidents. Most people come to see the 1880 Neoclassical stone Capilla de Animas (Chapel of Spirits), a justifiably famous scale replica of the French chapel of the same name.
Close by is another rather mysterious replica, of Notre Dame cathedral. No one knows who built it, as the names have been chiseled away. This is also the starting point for the two-hour walk (or much quicker bike ride) to the back of Laguna de Apoyo.
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Iglesia de la Merced
Arguably the most beautiful church in the city, this landmark fronts a plaza popular with young lovers and players after dark. Originally completed in 1539, it was razed by pirates in 1655 and rebuilt with its current Baroque facade between 1781 and 1783. Damaged by Walker's forces in 1854, it was again restored with the current elaborate interior in 1862.
Although Catholics come to see an important image of the Virgen de Fatima, anyone can enjoy climbing the bell tower. The caretaker usually takes people up late morning, but it's worth asking him any time.
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Nicaragua Butterfly Reserva
This charming mariposario is a must-see for anyone partial to a bit of a fluttery fun. Dedicated to protecting and breeding over 20 species of butterfly (around 200 of the little critters at any given time), the massive flight house is home to such exotic specimens as the Owl Butterfly, the Montezuma and the stunning Blue Morpho.
They also offer guided or self-guided nature tours through nearby walking trails, and if you don't feel like heading straight back to town, you can even rent a cabina overnight.
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Iglesia San Francisco
The oldest church in Central America and the most striking building in Granada (that is to say, Nicaragua) boasts the big robin-egg-blue birthday cake facade of Iglesia San Francisco, which, incidentally, houses the best museum in the region. Originally constructed in 1585, it was subsequently burnt to the ground by pirates and later William Walker, rebuilt most recently in 1868 and restored in 1989.
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Old Train Station
Nine long blocks north of town along Calle Atravesada, you'll find shadeless Parque Sandino, next to the old train station, now a technical vocational school. Built in 1882 and operational in 1886, the US marines remodeled it in 1912. There's lots of playground equipment, some with train themes, and a few well-preserved railroad cars are on display nearby.
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Fritangas
Granada has excellent street food, with bags of fruit salad and other goodies on sale between the parque central and Mercado Municipal in the morning. Just before sunset, fritangas set up in the parque central and Calle La Calzada, dishing up barbecue, gallo pinto (rice and beans) and all things fried, onto washed banana leaves for you to enjoy.
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Fortaleza La Polvora
Originally called the Fortaleza de Armas when it was constructed in 1748, this lavishly turreted Spanish fortress still has the best view in town, over ancient, water-stained church domes all the way to Lago de Nicaragua. You can also check out paintings, a few interesting artifacts and one of the better public toilets (it's hexagonal!) in Nicaragua.
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Horse-drawn Carriage Tours
The classic Granada tour takes a horse-drawn carriage from the park for an hour-long whirl past churches, the cemetery, the malecón (waterfront) and more with your Spanish-speaking guide. These guys know how to give a tour, too: this has been a family business since 1868, when carriages were first introduced here and in Masaya.
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Cafe DecArte
This restaurant serves fresh, healthy cuisine, including a recommended Caesar salad and tuna pita sandwich, plus daily vegetarian specials and fresh soups, not to mention a pretty darned spectacular breakfast buffet. The owners also offer mosaics classes to adults as well as local kids, who sell their stuff right here.
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Doña Conchi
Excellent Spanish cuisine is served in a lovely garden, lit by candles in the evening. Prices aren't cheap, but the ambience and sangria (iced punch made from red wine, fruit juice and soda water) are unbeatable, and from time to time Conchi breaks out her castanets to dance for the lucky few.
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El Zaguán
The best restaurant in town does succulent fire-grilled meats, wonderfully prepared guapote (rainbow bass) from the lake or sea bass from the Pacific, all in a cozy dining room where dueling mariachi trios descend at sunset. Make reservations in the high season.
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Piscina-Ristorante Casa Vivaldi
Winning 'best perk' in the Mediterranean category is this Italian restaurant specializing in fresh pasta, tiramisu espresso beverages and fine wine served beneath a vine-draped patio. But really it's all about the pool. Hotel rooms are also being built.
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Mosaics Workshops
Janet Gallagher at Cafe DecArte regularly offers classes; the fee includes all your materials, which will (hopefully) become a beautiful bowl; she also teaches local kids as part of the Muchachos de Mosaico program, and you can buy their work here.
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Maycor José García - Spanish Teacher
There are loads of freelance Spanish teachers, most with experience at one of the language schools, who will come to your hotel, and may be able to arrange homestays. Check bulletin boards in backpacker hotels, or try Maycor José García.
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Inuit Kayaks
Most tour companies run trips to Las Isletas, or do it yourself with Inuit Kayaks, which runs several guided tours and also rents tents - camping is free in the Centro Turistico. Inuit Kayaks also plans to offer sailboats and windsurfing soon.
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Tercer Ojo
Consider making reservations for one of the scarf-draped tables in this beautiful trippy-gypsy gourmet restaurant, where international offerings range from sushi to curries to big salads, lots of imported wines and a gourmet grocery in front.
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Bayardo Corea Cuadra
There are loads of freelance Spanish teachers, most with experience at one of the language schools, who will come to your hotel, and may be able to arrange homestays. Check bulletin boards in backpacker hotels, or try Bayardo Corea Cuadra.
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Mombotour
This recommended outfitter is part of the Mombacho Canopy Tour, which you can combine with other active options like guided hikes up Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho, kayak trips through Las Isletas and bike rides to Laguna de Apoyo.
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Melbar & Los Hijos del Maíz
Melba, the best-dressed woman in Granada, serves comida corriente (a mixed plate of different typical foods) and 13-córdoba cerveza (beer) in her five-star location, right around the corner from the cathedral.
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