Things to do in Taranaki
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Pukekura Park
New Plymouth has several picturesque parks, the pick of which is the superb Pukekura Park. A 10-minute stroll from the city centre, the park has 49 hectares of gardens, playgrounds, bush walks, streams, waterfalls, ponds and display houses (open 8.30am to 4pm). Next to the main lake (full of arm-sized eels and ducklings), the Tea House (snacks $3-8; [hours] 10am-5pm) serves up light meals and cream teas. Row boats (per 30min $10) make for lazy meanderings across the water on weekends and summer evenings. The technicoloured Festival of Lights here draws the summer crowds, as does the classically English cricket oval, with terrace seating cut into the surrounding hills
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Govett-Brewster Art Gallery
The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery is arguably the country’s best regional art gallery and the crowd-pulling jewel in the town’s crown. Presenting contemporary – often experimental – local and international shows, it’s most famous for its connection with NZ sculptor, filmmaker and artist Len Lye (1901−80). His work is well represented here, with showings of his 1930s animation as well as sculpture and super-clever kinetic works. The glass-fronted Café Govett-Brewster (meals $5-20; [hours] 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) is also here.
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Brooklands Park
Adjoining Pukekura is Brooklands Park home to the Bowl of Brooklands (www.bowl.co.nz), a world-class outdoor sound-shell, hosting festivals like WOMAD and old-school rockers like Elton John and Fleetwood Mac. The park itself was once the grounds of a settler’s home, destroyed by Maori, though the fireplace and chimney survive today. Highlights include a 2000-year-old puriri tree, a 300-variety rhododendron dell and the farmy Brooklands Zoo (admission free; [hours] 9am-5pm).
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Marine Park
The rugged Sugar Loaf islets, a section of Back Beach on the west side of Paritutu and its waters 1km offshore, were made into a marine park in 1991. The islands, which are eroded volcanic remnants, are a refuge for sea birds and over 400 NZ fur seals. Most seals come here from June to October but some stay all year round. You can learn more about the marine park at the tiny Interpretation Centre on the Lee Breakwater promenade.
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Pukeiti Rhododendron Garden
This 4-sq-km garden, located 20km south of New Plymouth, is home to a remarkable collection of rhododendrons and azaleas. The flowers generally bloom between September and November, but it’s worth a visit any time of year. The scenic journey there passes between the Pouakai and Kaitake Ranges, both part of Egmont National Park (it’s a skinny road – keep your wits about you!). The Gatehouse Café (meals $7 to $18; open 10am to 4pm) is here too.
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Puke Ariki
Translating as ‘Hill of Chiefs’, xxx is home to the i-SITE, a museum, library, a cafe and the fabulous Arborio restaurant. The excellent museum has an extensive collection of Maori artefacts, plus wildlife and colonial exhibits. The regular ‘Taranaki Experience’ show tells the history of the province while the audience sits in podlike seats that rumble and glow.
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Taranaki Aviation, Transport & Technology Museum
Around 9.5km south of New Plymouth is the Taranaki Aviation, Transport & Technology Museum, which takes you on a trip down memory lane with its ramshackle displays of old planes, trains, automobiles and general household miscellany. Ask to see the stuff made by the amazing bee guy (hexagons ahoy!). The duck-filled Lake Mangamahoe (access from 7am to 8.30pm) is across the highway.
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New Plymouth Observatory
Atop Marsland Hill (great views!) is this wee observatory. Public nights include a planetarium program and, if the weather is clear, viewing through a 15cm refractor telescope. Also on the hill is the cacophonous 37-bell Kibby Carillon, a huge automated glockenspiel-like device which tolls out across the New Plymouthrooftops.
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Arborio
Despite looking like a cheese grater, Arborio is the star of New Plymouth’s local food show. It’s airy, arty and modern, with sea views and faultless service. The Med-influenced menu ranges from an awesome Moroccan lamb pizza to pastas, risottos and barbecued chilli squid with lychee-and-cucumber noodle salad. Cocktails and NZ wines also available.
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White Cliffs Organic Brewery
About 5km past Urenui you’ll find arguably the highlight of North Taranaki – White Cliffs Organic Brewery – home of award-winning beers. The brewery offers tours (book in advance), takeaways, tastings of the legendary Mike’s Pale Ale (the pilsener and lager are ace, too), and an Oktoberfest party every (you guessed it) October.
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Bach on Breakwater
Constructed from weighty recycled timbers, this cool cafe-bistro in the emerging Lee Breakwater precinct looks like an old sea-chest washed up after a storm. Expect plenty of seafood and steak, plus Asian- and Middle Eastern–influenced delights (curries, wontons,felafels) and killer coffee. The seafood chowder is a real winter warmer.
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Puke Ariki Landing
Along the city waterfront is Puke Ariki Landing, an historic area studded with sculptures, including the wonderfully eccentric Wind Wand (www.windwand.co.nz). Designed by Len Lye – the artist who has put this town on the map in modern times – this 45m-high kooky kinetic sculpture is a truly beloved icon of bendy poleness.
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Frederic’s
Freddy’s is a fab new gastro-bar with quirky interior design (rusty medieval chandeliers, peacock-feather wallpaper, religious icon paintings), serving generous share-plates. Order some meatballs with bell-pepper sauce, or some green-lipped mussels with coconut cream, chilli and coriander to go with your beer.
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St Mary’s Church
The austere St Mary’s Church, built in 1846, is the oldest stone church in NZ. Its graveyard has the headstones of early settlers and soldiers who died during the Taranaki Land Wars (1860–61 and 1865–69). Impressed by their bravery, the British also buried several Maori chiefs here.
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Matinee
A good option (one of the only ones, actually) for those who prefer top shelf to Tui, and electronica to ’80s rock. Inside a former theatre, the design is all mirrors, silk drapes and art nouveau wallpaper; the tables outside afford puffing and people-watching. Jazz Fridays; DJs Saturdays.
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Tupare
Tupare is a Tudor-style house designed by the renowned architect James Chapman-Taylor. It is a picture, but the highlight of this 7km trip south of town will likely be the stunning 3.6 hectare garden surrounding it. Bluebells, birdsong – a picnicker’s dream.
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Ultra Lounge
A fashionable bar and restaurant serving upmarket café fare during the day and upping the ante in the evenings. Plenty of top quality NZ produce served intelligently, fresh Med flavours and delicately-done Asian. Boasts a stylish interior and pleasant rooftop balcony.
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André L’Escargot
If you’re looking for the best in town, this is it. Audaciously serving up snails in the ’naki since 1976, we doff our beret to the man who has no doubt raised the bar and kept it there. All classic French fare, indulgent and largely gout-inducing, plus killer cocktails.
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Elixir
Behind a weird louvered wall facing onto Devon St, Elixir fosters an American-diner vibe, serving up everything from coffee, cake, bagels and eggs on toast, through to more innovative evening fare. Below a wall of rock posters, the coffee machine gets a serious work-out.
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Wind Wand
The wonderfully eccentric Wind Wand, in Puke Ariki Landing, was designed by Len Lye – the artist who has put this town on the map in modern times.This 45m-high kooky kinetic sculpture is a truly beloved icon of bendy poleness.
reviewed
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Chaos
Not so much chaotic as endearingly scruffy, Chaos is a dependable spot for a coffee and a zingy breakfast. Ricotta-and-blueberry pancakes, background jazz, smiley staff and boho interior design – hard to beat! Plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options, too.
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Petit Paris
Ooh-la-la: lashings of buttery treats! Flying the tricolore with pride, Petit Paris is a boulangerie and patisserie turning out crispy baguettes and tart au citron (lemon tart), or an omelette or croque monsieur for lunch.
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Taranaki Thermal Spa
The warm mineral water filling the tanks at Taranaki Thermal Spa was discovered during the search for oil around 1910. The private baths are filled on arrival, and there’s a suite of massage and beauty therapies available. An absolute tonic.
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Daily News
Situated in a pleasant corner of the library, this place is perfect for those who like to eat in peace. Inexpensive, filling counter food such as sandwiches and muffins that you can enjoy while plugging into CNN or BBC sites or browsing mags and newspapers.
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IndiaToday
A sumptuous gold-walled room draped with bolts of silk, IndiaToday wafts with spicy aromas and snaky tabla tunes enticing you in off the street. Dapper waiters, subcontinentally perfect in gold tunics and black pants, serve up classic and creative curries.
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