Things to do in Northland & The Bay Of Islands
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Waipu Museum
The original 934 British settlers came from Scotland via Nova Scotia (Canada) between 1853 and 1860. These dour Scots at least had the good sense to eschew frigid Otago, where so many of their kindred settled, for sunnier northern climes. Their story comes to life through holograms, a short film and interactive displays at the Waipu Museum.
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Kamakura
The flashest option in Russell by a long way, this restaurant has a breezy beach-house feel. The Pacific Rim menu gainfully plunders Asian and French styles to produce beautifully presented, delicious meals. In summer it hosts a monthly artisan market (www.artisanmarket.co.nz).
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Pimarn Thai
As gaudy as every good Thai restaurant should be – there’s plenty of gold and glass bling on the walls and around the necks of the serving staff. The lengthy menu features all Thailand’s blockbuster dishes, including a tasty pad thai.
reviewed
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Parua Bay Tavern
A magical spot on a summer’s day, Parua Bay Tavern is a friendly pub set on a thumb-shaped peninsula, with a sole pohutukawa blazing red against the green water. Grab a seat on the deck, a cold beverage and a decent pub meal.
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Only Seafood
A superb place for local seafood, with dishes ranging from the simple (catch-of-the-day with lemon and parsley) to all manner of creamy, spicy concoctions. The fat Pacific oysters served with soy, wasabi and pickled ginger are sublime.
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Pear Tree
Lovely views of the basin from this homestead are this restaurant’s big drawcard, ably matched by the food.
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Waterfront Cafe
It’s a sausage-roll-and-custard-square kind of place, but it’s Russell’s best weekday breakfast option.
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Dive North
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Gumdiggers Park
Kauri forests covered this area for over 100,000 years, leaving ancient logs and the much-prized gum (used for making varnish and linoleum) buried beneath. xxx covers a major gumdigging site – the region’s main industry from the 1870s to the 1920s. In 1900, some 7000 gumdiggers (wearing gumboots – the NZ name for Wellingtons) were digging holes all over Northland. Start with the 15-minute video telling the story of the trees, their mysterious destruction and the gum industry. Rope paths head through the bush, leading past reproductions of gumdiggers’ huts, ancient kauri stumps and holes left by the diggers. It was a hard life for the workers, who used jute sacks for their…
reviewed
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Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve
In the months that followed the New Zealand Wars, British troops (united with Hokianga Ngapuhi) fought Ngapuhi chief Hone Heke and his chief Kawiti in several battles. During this time the modern pa was born, effectively the world’s first sophisticated system of trench warfare. It’s worth stopping at the Ruapekapeka Pa Historic Reserve, off SH1 south of Kawakawa, to see how impressive these fortifications were. Here you can wander the site of the last battle of the Northland War, brought to life through detailed information boards. Eventually Heke, Kawiti and George Grey (the new governor) made their peace, with no side the clear winner.
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Kauri Museum
Matakohe’s a sweet village on one of the Kaipara’s many inlets. Apart from its rural charms, the reason for visiting is the superb Kauri Museum. The giant cross-sections of trees are astounding in themselves, but the entire industry is brought to light through life-sized reproductions of a pioneer sawmill, boarding house, gumdigger’s hut and Victorian home – along with photos, artefacts, and fabulous furniture and marquetry. The Gum Room holds a weird and wonderful collection of kauri gum, the amber substance that can be carved, sculpted and polished to a jewel-like quality. The museum shop stocks mementoes crafted from kauri wood and gum.
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Dive! Tutukaka
Dive! Tutukaka is deservedly the main operator, winning an array of tourism, business and environmental awards. It offers a variety of dive courses and excursions, including a five-day PADI open-water course. Perhaps the jewel in its crown is the much-raved-about Perfect Day Ocean Cruise, which includes a commentary, lunch and snacks, snorkelling from a platform in the middle of the marine reserve, kayaking through caves and arches, and sightings of dolphins and rare seabirds (usually), and occasionally whales, orcas and fur seals. Cruises depart at 11am, returning at 4.15pm.
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St Paul’s Church
Paihia’s St Paul’s Church isn’t particularly old (1925), but it stands on the site of NZ’s first church – a simple raupo (bulrush) hut constructed in 1823. It’s an altogether charming church, built from Kawakawa stone. Spot the native birds in the stained glass above the altar – the kotare (kingfisher) represents Jesus (the king plus ‘fisher of men’), while the tui (parson bird) and kereru (wood pigeon) portray the personalities of the Williams brothers (one scholarly, one forceful) who set up the mission station here.
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Pompallier
Pompallier is a rammed-earth building constructed in 1842 to house the Roman Catholic mission’s printing press, which printed a staggering 40,000 books in Maori. In the 1870s it was converted into a private home but it has been restored to its original state, complete with tannery and printing workshop. On the excellent guided tour you get to play with the tools and learn how to ‘skive off’ and become a ‘dab hand’. It’s the last remaining building of the Catholic mission in the Western Pacific.
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Old Library Arts Centre
The Old Library Arts Centre exhibits local artists in a wonderful art-deco building. Between this and the library is Pou, an intriguing sculpture consisting of 10 large poles carved with Maori, Polynesian, Celtic and Korean motifs. Grab an interpretive pamphlet from the library. The newest addition is a brightly painted Croatian gumdigger with a gum-seeking stake in one hand and his heart on fire for his woman back home – portrayed upside down and balanced on his head.
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Abbey Caves
The budget traveller’s answer to Waitomo, Abbey Caves is an undeveloped network of three caverns full of glowworms and limestone formations, 4km east of town. Grab a torch, strong shoes and a mate (you wouldn’t want to be stuck down here alone if things go pear-shaped) and prepare to get wet. The surrounding reserve is a forest of crazily shaped rock extrusions. If you’re staying at neighbouring Little Earth Lodge, you can borrow helmets and hire head torches.
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Fullers
Fullers runs full-day (adult/child $99/50) and half-day ($89/45) tours, taking in the Hole in the Rock off Cape Brett (passing through it if conditions are right) and stopping on an island. The full day ‘Cream Trip’ follows the old supply and mail route around the islands and includes dolphin swimming and boom netting (where you can get close to the critters while being dragged through the water in a net).
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Footprints Waipoua
Footprints Waipoua is a four-hour twilight tour led by Maori guides into Waipoua Kauri Forest. As an introduction to Maori culture, it’s fantastic. Tribal history and stories are shared, and mesmerising karakia recited before the giant trees. A (child-friendly) shorter version is offered (90 minutes, adult/child $70/35), as well as guided daytime visits, meeting at the Tane Mahuta car park ($25).
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Whaling Museum
At Hihi, 15km northeast of Mangonui, is Butler Point, where you can take a guided tour around the small Whaling Museum, housed in a Victorian homestead (1843) with lovely gardens. Its first owner, Captain Butler, left Dorset when he was 14 and at 24 was captain of a whaling ship. He settled here in 1839, had 13 children and became a trader, farmer, magistrate and Member of Parliament.
reviewed
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Waka Tai-a-Mai
For a hands-on experience of the Maori culture, Waka Tai-a-Mai gives you the opportunity to paddle a traditional 50ft carved waka (canoe). Leaving from the Waitangi bridge, the journey heads up to the Haruru Falls before visiting a replica Maori village. The Ngapuhi hosts wear traditional garb and perform the proper karakia (incantations), as well as some excellent storytelling.
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Ancient Kauri Kingdom
It’s tacky and overpriced, but Ancient Kauri Kingdom is still worth a stop. Here 50,000-year-old kauri stumps, dragged up from swamps, are fashioned into furniture, woodcraft products and a fair bit of tourist tat. The large complex includes a cafe, gift shop and workshop. A huge kauri log has an impressive spiral staircase carved into it that takes you to the mezzanine level.
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Cape Reinga and 90 Mile Beach Tour from Bay of Islands
11 hours (Departs Paihia, Bay of Islands, New Zealand)
by Viator
Take an action-packed day trip from Paihia to the tip of New Zealand’s North Island on a guided tour of Cape Reinga! The Waverider coach, built to traverse sand…Not LP reviewed
from USD$92.88 -
Aroha Island Ecological Centre
Aroha Island Ecological Centre is located on a tiny 5-hectare island, 10km northeast of Kerikeri, reached via a permanent causeway through mangroves. The island provides a haven for the North Island brown kiwi and other native birds, as well as an excellent picnic spot for their nonfeathered admirers. There’s a visitor centre, and kayaks can be rented ($25 for four hours).
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Stone Store
The Stone Store, next to the Mission House, is the oldest stone building in NZ (1836). It sells interesting gifts as well as the type of goods that used to be sold in the store – although these days you’ll have a hard time bartering pigs for muskets. Tours ($10) of the Mission House depart from here and include entry to the displays on the 1st floor of the store.
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